How Tight Should a New Holster Be?

This is a discussion on How Tight Should a New Holster Be? within the Defensive Carry Holsters & Carry Options forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; I got a virtually new Simply Rugged Silver Dollar pancake holster from ebay for $35. It arrived today. I bought it for use with a ...

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Thread: How Tight Should a New Holster Be?

  1. #1
    Member Array Scott Free's Avatar
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    How Tight Should a New Holster Be?

    I got a virtually new Simply Rugged Silver Dollar pancake holster from ebay for $35. It arrived today. I bought it for use with a Ruger SP101 which goes into and out of the holster just fine—until I'm actually wearing it. Then, I can barely remove the gun from the holster. It's ridiculously tight. The belt (also new) is a Hanks Amish CCW belt. I'm wondering if things loosen up with wear and time? Also, if things do loosen up—is there anything I can do to help the process along?

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    Do new leather shoes loosen up?
    Same thing here, wear it, use it, and draw 200-300 time a day for a few days...it'll be just fine.
    When worn. the holster and belt will mold to the body.
    NO NOT put anything on the leather to loosen it up...let it break in normally.
    Better tight to loosen up, then to be too loose at the start.
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    VIP Member Array dukalmighty's Avatar
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    Either put the gun in a baggie,or wrap a couple layers of wax paper around the gun,then insert in the holster,and leave overnight,it should stretch the leather just enough to allow for good retention with an easy draw
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    Distinguished Member Array Taurahe's Avatar
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    I second the wax paper method... or send the holster and gun to me with some ammo and ill take care of it for ya
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    Defender of freedom by birth, Photographer by trade, Certified gun nut by love.

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    Distinguished Member Array multistage's Avatar
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    When off the belt, the holster lies flat. When on the belt, the holster bends and curves to your waist. This squeezes the gun.

    That's why it slides in and out easily when in your hands, but is plumb tight when on your waist (when new).

    To me, this is the sign of a well fitted holster. On the other hand, I have a VMII that fit my 1911 perfect out of the box. Zero break in required. In fact, all of my Sparks holsters came that way.

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    Member Array rednichols's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by multistage View Post
    When off the belt, the holster lies flat. When on the belt, the holster bends and curves to your waist. This squeezes the gun.

    That's why it slides in and out easily when in your hands, but is plumb tight when on your waist (when new).

    To me, this is the sign of a well fitted holster. On the other hand, I have a VMII that fit my 1911 perfect out of the box. Zero break in required. In fact, all of my Sparks holsters came that way.
    The first two sentences are right on the money. But as for the third, it's not the sign of a well-fitted holster, it's the sign of an incorrectly designed and manufactured holster. Nowadays, since Baker, we've been making 'pancake' style holsters with a larger front panel than rear panel; this method eliminates the change in shape when the holster is actually worn. The other way is to actually pressure-mould the holster on the curve, which is how the old Bianchi 'Shadows' were produced: in a press that had a pair of concave/convex platens, rubber-covered. Any holster company that is not utilising these methods or comparable, is a shoemaker (apologies to old Tex).

    The rest of the sentence ("zero break in required") is how you should expect EVERY holster to fit. None of those home remedies listed above should ever be called upon.
    Red (Richard) Nichols
    Holster Designer / Maker since 1958

    The true man wants two things: danger and play. For that reason he wants woman, as the most dangerous plaything. - Nietzsche

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    Distinguished Member Array multistage's Avatar
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    Apologies. I mispoke myself.

    It is NOT the sign of a well fitted holster. You are correct, red.

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