My 3rd attempt at holster making

This is a discussion on My 3rd attempt at holster making within the Defensive Carry Holsters & Carry Options forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; Pretty proud of this one. It is my best to date. Actually made it for a co-worker's Ruger SR40c. It's made with 9-10 Oz. Hermann ...

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Thread: My 3rd attempt at holster making

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    Senior Member Array acepilot's Avatar
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    My 3rd attempt at holster making

    Pretty proud of this one. It is my best to date. Actually made it for a co-worker's Ruger SR40c. It's made with 9-10 Oz. Hermann Oak leather which is about 3/16" thick. I soaked it in near boiling water for 30 seconds to wet form it. That temperature water makes the leather a bit brittle, which helps even more to keep it open for easy reholstering...

    Hand stictched using the two needle method. I pre-drill the holes with a 1/16" drill bit in my drill press. Works like a champ! Took about 2 hours from start to finish.

    Ace
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    VIP Member Array boricua's Avatar
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    Nice.
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    Distinguished Member Array OhioCatter's Avatar
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    Nice little holster there.

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    Member Array Denster's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by acepilot View Post
    Pretty proud of this one. It is my best to date. Actually made it for a co-worker's Ruger SR40c. It's made with 9-10 Oz. Hermann Oak leather which is about 3/16" thick. I soaked it in near boiling water for 30 seconds to wet form it. That temperature water makes the leather a bit brittle, which helps even more to keep it open for easy reholstering...

    Hand stictched using the two needle method. I pre-drill the holes with a 1/16" drill bit in my drill press. Works like a champ! Took about 2 hours from start to finish.

    Just a suggestion for future holsters. Skip the near boiling water, that really risks damaging the leather, a 4 or 5 second dunk in warm water and let the leather sit for a few minutes before inserting the gun and forming is the best way. Force drying at 120 to 130 degF will cause the leather to firm up nicely.

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    VIP Member Array chiefjason's Avatar
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    This^^^^

    I just run mine under warm water a couple times in the sink. There is a method for boiling leather to make it hard. But you still want some flexibility in that holster too.

    If you have a shoe rack for your dryer just run it through a cycle on the rack for about an hour. I put mine in the oven for about 20 minutes, about as low as it will go now. Be kind of careful with the oven until you get it figured out. You can ruin leather if you are not careful.

    I would also recommend a solid stitch around the perimeter to reinforce the glue. I usually run a stitch between the belt slot and the gun too. You can see it in my avatar. Speaking of stitches, try to connect that top stitch to the trigger guard stitch instead of letting that one stitch hang out there on it's own.

    And keep at it. It's addictive. Each one get's a little better.
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    Senior Member Array acepilot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chiefjason View Post
    This^^^^

    I just run mine under warm water a couple times in the sink. There is a method for boiling leather to make it hard. But you still want some flexibility in that holster too.

    If you have a shoe rack for your dryer just run it through a cycle on the rack for about an hour. I put mine in the oven for about 20 minutes, about as low as it will go now. Be kind of careful with the oven until you get it figured out. You can ruin leather if you are not careful.

    I would also recommend a solid stitch around the perimeter to reinforce the glue. I usually run a stitch between the belt slot and the gun too. You can see it in my avatar. Speaking of stitches, try to connect that top stitch to the trigger guard stitch instead of letting that one stitch hang out there on it's own.

    And keep at it. It's addictive. Each one get's a little better.
    It still has some flexibility...seems about the same as before I soaked it. This one is pretty darn thick (about 3/8" where the belt slots are since the leather is about 3/16" thick), so there isn't as much flexibility to start with...

    There is stitching running around the perimeter of the glued area for the most part. So far, I haven't had any issues with glued areas de-bonding. That one stitch by the trigger guard is completely back-stitched, so it's doubled up.

    Yes, holster making IS addictive. I need to make one for my wife's Sig and another one for my SR9c with laser...
    Ace
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    VIP Member Array GhostMaker's Avatar
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    Congrats! That is a very solid looking holster. I tip my hat to you!!
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    Member Array Drgnfly's Avatar
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    Nice work! Keep it up

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    Senior Member Array royal barnes's Avatar
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    Since you're using your drill press to make your stitch holes instead of a drill bit mount a diamond awl. Follow your stitch tracing with the awl set at an angle not straight up and down. Makes a neater stitch line and makes it stronger.

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    Senior Member Array rednichols's Avatar
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    You're off and running :)

    Others picked up on your wetting method, so I'll mention what shows as big as a barn: safety and design, which are immutably linked. This pic tells the story:

    a.jpg

    If we accept that Gaylord was the first to create what we call concealment holsters today, and Theodore made them better, and Bianchi made them popular; note how Theodore took the Gaylord design (they were mates) and removed the portion where the knuckle of the hand must go. Original Gaylord on the left, Paris' version on the right:

    c.jpgd.jpg

    What looks like a styling choice by Paris where the leather runs along the forward edge of the pistol grip, is actually done to clear the mag button, which is at that level on the other side of the pistol.

    50 years later it's still a struggle to incorporate the basics, that are necessary to accomodate what is a weapon, not a toy.
    Red (Richard) Nichols

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