Another homebrewed holster - Page 2

Another homebrewed holster

This is a discussion on Another homebrewed holster within the Defensive Carry Holsters & Carry Options forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; What everyone said is very right.....my first holster was probably more like 20 hrs. A trick for hand stitching is buy a "lay out or ...

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  1. #16
    Senior Member Array Eric Larsen's Avatar
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    What everyone said is very right.....my first holster was probably more like 20 hrs. A trick for hand stitching is buy a "lay out or stitch setter" and then just drill them out. Dremels work great for that.
    Nice job.........God bless
    If you choose not to decide, you still have made a choice..........Rush


  2. #17
    Member Array Smith10's Avatar
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    That is some very nice work there sir!

  3. #18
    Distinguished Member Array lowflyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eric Larsen View Post
    What everyone said is very right.....my first holster was probably more like 20 hrs. A trick for hand stitching is buy a "lay out or stitch setter" and then just drill them out. Dremels work great for that.
    Nice job.........God bless
    After I broke two needles stitching on the belt loop and the opening tab, I asked a guy at the store if there was any way to preserve these dang $5 needles. He said, "Are you poking holes before you stitch?" I said, "Of course not." He said, "Here, buy this $20 awl and poke your holes first."

    I left from there, $20 still in hand, and picked up $8-worth of drill bits for my Dremel. The rest of the stitching process was actually quite enjoyable.

    If you look closely, you can see where I accidentally bumped the leather with the Dremel.

    I used the star-shaped wheel in the pic above to lay out the holes. By "lay out or stitch setter," do you mean there something that works better? Before Saturday last, I had not ever seen any of these tools. The guys in the leather store were very helpful in getting me started, but I can't help but feel like mooing (as in 'cash cow') whenever I walk in there for help.
    Whatever doesn't kill you postpones the inevitable.

  4. #19
    Senior Member Array Eric Larsen's Avatar
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    Hey..I understand. Before I found sources for my hardware/etc...Id go into a leather factory and drop 2-300$ a shot at times..... :D

    The star wheel is called an Overstitch Marker and will work great.
    They have different "SPI or stitch's per inch" sizes of wheels. Id keep it around 6 stitches per inch. The Dremel makes it easier to say the least.....

    Shoot well and god bless.
    If you choose not to decide, you still have made a choice..........Rush

  5. #20
    Member Array plblark's Avatar
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    That's BEAUTIFUL for a first holster. I had the same problem with barrel sticking out on mine. by moving the belt loop / channel closer to the barrel axis, it will pull it in more for sure.

    I'm getting a dremel for sure now. This hand punching stuff is for the birds (said the man with numb fingers)

    The stitching on your holster looks GREAT!
    For MN specific carry information and a great shooting community, check out forum.twincitiescarry.com

  6. #21
    Distinguished Member Array lowflyer's Avatar
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    The Dremel worked great, but I need to figure out how to stop it before it hits the leather so it won't make the circles (see arrows). I did get better at it as I went along so the circles are not everywhere.

    The other thing that is hard to see from the pic is the line of stitching that I did backwards; meaning, I pushed the needle through the bottom instead of the top (see line). I was going to redo that line, but feared running out of thread.



    Oh, and for anyone who is wondering, I used Mahogany-flavored leather dye. I chose that color for three reasons:
    1. I like that color.
    2. The stitching awl came with black thread so a dark color makes sense.
    3. Dark colors seem to hide imperfections.
    Last edited by lowflyer; March 7th, 2007 at 12:44 PM.
    Whatever doesn't kill you postpones the inevitable.

  7. #22
    Senior Member Array Eric Larsen's Avatar
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    A couple of pointers I I may....belt slots need to be close to the gun to work properly. Say within 5/8"....of the trigger guard.

    If you are using good contact cement....stitching can be less..I used to stitch the hell out of things, just because it gives the illusion of being stronger to the layman...but its not true.

    Shoot well and god bless
    If you choose not to decide, you still have made a choice..........Rush

  8. #23
    Senior Member Array BruceGibson's Avatar
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    When I hand-stitch, I use a Dremel also. What works real well for me is to lay the leather on a scrap piece of 1 X 4 or 1 X 6 pine board. That way when you're drilling your holes you can punch into wood, and also have something to brace against (for me it works a lot better than hanging it over the edge of the bench).

    I also agree with Eric on the contact cement--I use Barge (the brand-name) and it's always done a real good job.

  9. #24
    Distinguished Member Array lowflyer's Avatar
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    Thanks much! I'll take all the pointers I can get.

    My thinking that led to the placement of the slot was flawed to start with because I placed it based on the location of the edge of the belt loop. I knew it would be hard to get the belt through the slot and into the loop if there wasn't adequate space between, but I had installed the loop before I had that epiphany.

    By the time I cut the slot, I had little choice where to place it since the holster was already glued/stitched together and I had left no room between the second row of stitches and the edge of the loop. I think I learned that the loop needs to be closer to the barrel and top strap of the gun than where it is. I would have naturally brought the slot in toward the gun because I wanted to have a stitch all the way around it. That said, it will be nice to have the 5/8-inch guideline from here on out.

    I know the stitching adds little strength, but stitching is cheap and I do like the way it looks. Besides, I discovered an inverse proportional relationship between the number of stitches sewn and how much I totally suck at it.
    Whatever doesn't kill you postpones the inevitable.

  10. #25
    Distinguished Member Array lowflyer's Avatar
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    Here is what I did with the one I cut bassackwards:



    I am surprised at how comfortable this one is. It actually works!
    Last edited by lowflyer; March 8th, 2007 at 01:57 PM.
    Whatever doesn't kill you postpones the inevitable.

  11. #26
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    NICE JOB!!! Where did you get your book & supplys?
    would love to give it a try. what a great hobby to pick up
    Thanks for any advice on geting started
    have a great week! CS45-Seattle

  12. #27
    Distinguished Member Array lowflyer's Avatar
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    Here's another pic of my Model 771. I call it the 771 because I cut it out backwards from what I had intended. It should have looked similar to the Model 177.

    Last edited by lowflyer; March 7th, 2007 at 11:06 PM.
    Whatever doesn't kill you postpones the inevitable.

  13. #28
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    Very, very nice!!!
    USAF: Loving Our Obscene Amenities Since 1947

  14. #29
    Distinguished Member Array lowflyer's Avatar
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    I need to learn how to use the hardware - rivets, snaps, etc... I sewed the loop on this one more or less because I was impatient.

    You might notice that it was still a little damp in places when I took the pic.
    Whatever doesn't kill you postpones the inevitable.

  15. #30
    Member Array huntermedic's Avatar
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    Looks GREAT for a first attempt. I've been thinking of trying my hand at it.
    Some people are alive simply because it's illegal to kill them.

    If guns cause crime, then pens cause illiteracy

    Rock Island Armory 1911 compact tactical, Ruger GP 100, Glock 27

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