max-con snaps help, before I snap
This is a discussion on max-con snaps help, before I snap within the Defensive Carry Holsters & Carry Options forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; Would dampining the leathe loops, adding a small shim to increase thickness to the belt and then snapping the loops over the belt/shim and letting ...
October 1st, 2007 09:17 AM
Would dampining the leathe loops, adding a small shim to increase thickness to the belt and then snapping the loops over the belt/shim and letting things dry work?
October 1st, 2007 10:28 AM
Hint: look inside the female snap on a snap that's difficult to open, or close and note the orientation of the spring wire inside the snap. One way snaps that are hard to manipulate, almost always have the spring oriented where the gap between the two spring ends is lined up between 11 and 1 O'clock when looking at the female snap with the inside tab being 6 O'clock.
Originally Posted by Pete10
The fix: take the point of an awl and rotate the gap in the spring so it is closer to the 6 O'clock position and then take a pair of side cutters and crimp the tab that traps the spring so that it keeps it from rotating. A drop of machine oil, or a little wax on the snap and your good to go.
The reason: the two ends of the wire spring enclosed within the female snap are clipped to length during the manufacturing process and sometimes have a burr on the ends where they are clipped. When the gap in the spring is oriented at 12 O'clock on the female snap, any burr that is present can bite into the male stud as the snap closes, which keeps the spring from spreading open to accept the stud. When the gap in the spring is oriented more towards the other end at six O'clock, the pressure of closing is on the bend of the wire spring and not on the sharp edges of the spring ends. Normal snaps do not have the locking tab of the one-ways and since they are snapped shut straight down instead of rolled on, they are not subject to the same opening and closing problems.
"Always do sober what you said you'd do drunk. That will teach you to keep your mouth shut." ~Ernest Hemingway
October 1st, 2007 12:32 PM
Originally Posted by T. Kanaley
Thanks for the tip. I may try them again with this info. I have had pretty good luck with normal snaps, but the pull the dots were great when I had a set that worked well. This little guy certainly appreciates the help from a "not so little guy"!
October 1st, 2007 03:20 PM
Are they "directional" snaps? Check for a dot indicating the direction to snap/unsnap.
Packin' Heat Leather
Galco & Bianchi Dealer
McAllen, Texas USA
October 1st, 2007 03:43 PM
+1 New loop.
Originally Posted by jarhead79
My MS VMII had this problem w/Rafter S belt. Called MS but they said the problem was with the belt! Told them I had 5 other VMII with no problem with that belt-still claimed it was the belt.
Why is it that you always find things at the last place you looked?
Because when you find something-you stop looking-Mooch
October 5th, 2007 05:23 PM
Just to follow up.
I have finally figured out how to make this work. What I did was change the way I put the holster on. Instead of putting in down in the waistband all the way and then trying to snap it, I put it in the waistband part way and then stick the loop under the belt and pull it over the belt until the snap reaches the other part of the snap and snap it. It's hard to explain but the belt is held in the loop differently this way. The back of the holster is still part way out of the waistband. After snapping the front, I push the back all the way down and snap it without a problem. This way makes it a breeze to get the holster on. No more cussing at the darn thing.
Thanks for all the help.
October 8th, 2007 02:21 PM
I'll try that as I have similar issues with the snaps. However I love the holster................
Those who hammer their guns into plows will plow for those who do not."
~ Thomas Jefferson
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