Knife sharpeners - Page 3

Knife sharpeners

This is a discussion on Knife sharpeners within the Defensive Knives & Other Weapons forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; For knives I just use a small spyderco med/fine ceramic stone in a little leather pouch. For straight razors or if I really want to ...

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Thread: Knife sharpeners

  1. #31
    Member Array TattooedGunner's Avatar
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    For knives I just use a small spyderco med/fine ceramic stone in a little leather pouch.

    For straight razors or if I really want to polish a knife's edge for some reason I use a Belgian Coticule

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  2. #32
    Array QKShooter's Avatar
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    It really works very well. they really do need an intermediate belt like a 6 or8 hundred grit before the final honing belt but, a light stropping on a Rouge leather strop fixes that.
    You can get a very neat crisp edge that WILL shave hair off the arm without additional stroping but, a final strop really makes the hair pop off.

    The really nice thing about it is that it will totally remake a badly beat up edge FAST!

    About 3 or 4 minutes on one of my knives and I'm ready to hit the woods.

    Until you do a few knives and get the hang of it you may need to remake a couple of knife points. I STARTED WITH ALL OF OUR KITCHEN KNIVES FOR INITIAL PRACTICE AND THAT SOLVED THAT MINOR ISSUE.

    Quote Originally Posted by Moops View Post
    Just found this thread on a search. I'm looking for a good sharpener. How has the Work Sharp measured up?
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  3. #33
    VIP Member Array Stevew's Avatar
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    Spyderco Sharpmaker.
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  5. #34
    Member Array John123's Avatar
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    Another vote for "wicked edge" as the hands down best sharpener out there, at least for those without that special gene that allows them to hold a perfect edge freehand while using a stone.

    I watched a lengthy demo while at a gun show where the rep was taking shoppers old knives and sharpening them for free. I handed him a worn out CRKT from the car and Within 5-10 minutes of showing me how to use the system my CRKT had a razor sharp mirrors edge finish. When I say mirror finish I mean the edge of the blade was immaculate, you could see your reflection clear as day and the blade was sharp enough to hack through thick hide and leather he had there to try. The before and after was simply uncanny, and he had other common blades that you would never imagine getting razor sharp to prove the sharpeners ability.

    He had on display a standard issue E-tool with the same wicked edge (hence the name) along with about a dozen common knives that could cut through the toughest leather I've handled.

    I'm not a knife guy, but I was when I saw the amazingly beautiful edge that sharpener could produce.

    Then I saw the price tag...

    I could almost buy a brand new firearm for the price!!

    While I doubt nothing could beat the wicked edge, for the price point I'm going to give the lansky sharpening system a try. It's 50 dollars at my local store, no shipping, no waiting and it is somewhat of a similar design of the wicked edge.

  6. #35
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  7. #36
    Senior Member Array Phillep Harding's Avatar
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    Lansky for short knives (use tape to give the jaws a grip, measure, and take notes), Edge Pro Apex for longer knives (take notes). Neither handles a chef knife well, nor do they like blades that are hollow ground to the spine. Might be a trick to it, but that knife is a tiny thing I no longer carry.

    Edge Pro recommends scrubbing the edge. Don't. Takes longer that way.

    Lansky recommends oil on their stones. I'm trying them dry to see if they take longer to glaze. Do NOT, repeat NOT use gasoline to clean the stones; the "plastic" stone mounts are actually styrene, and will soften. No gasoline!

    Trick to see the burr so you know what you are feeling: Point a small, bright flash light from the spine toward the edge. The underside of the burr will really shine when you get the angle right.

  8. #37
    Member Array Busby's Avatar
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    Thanks for the helpful information.

  9. #38
    Senior Member Array sjones's Avatar
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    I have the smiths ccd4 and its a great sharpener.Its like the sperdeco only a little smaller.And its only about 20.00.Its made for pocket knives.

  10. #39
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    I'm not bad with a stone. I've tried just about everything, including emery paper systems. I prefer my hunting and skinning knives surgical sharp, and for that I use a Tormek T-7 with the Japanese stone. The slow speed, water, secondary bevel gage, and jigs make it foolproof and perfect every time. You're never going to ruin the temper like with many other power sharpeners. The power strop is the same slow-speed and with some jeweler's rouge it makes my knives molecular sharp. It will only do a flat grind, and I have some convex knives I have to do by hand, but otherwise I've found no equal. I pretty much sharpen the knives of everyone I know now.

    I've skinned and butchered several pickup beds full of deer in a night. I care quite a bit about sharp knives.

    I watched an old farmer down 67 (who had probably butchered a thousand) butcher a goat with one of my Fellkniven knives and cut himself three times before handing it back to me and telling me it was too sharp for cutting up goats.
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  11. #40
    Array NRAforLIFE's Avatar
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    Work Sharp is a good sharpener. I went through a sharpening craze a few months back, and it was one of the better ones, and fast.
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  12. #41
    Ex Member Array Donn's Avatar
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    I use crock sticks. They're the only things I'm any good with.

  13. #42
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    I've been using Lansky for decades. I just recently replaced my old set with a new set. The mount in the new set is terrible and I told Lansky about it along with tens of others who think the new mount sucks too. I use the new stones, but stick with the old mount.

    I'd like to try one of those electric sharpeners, and I did some homework on a bunch of them but can't make a decision. I want one with angles that I can adjust, not a fixed angle. I'd like one with ceramic stones instead of a sanding belt. I want it to sharpen both sides at once without leaving a burr.

    The only problem with the Lansky system is that some blade backs won't sit in the clamp correctly or they wobble a few degrees from side to side while you are sharpening. This has a bearing on which knives I can buy because I won't buy anything I can't sharpen correctly.
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  14. #43
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    I turn a soup bowl upside down and use the rim on the bottom. The wife complains about the knives being too sharp to use without cutting herself.

  15. #44
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  16. #45
    VIP Member Array shockwave's Avatar
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    Of the ones you listed, the Work Sharp WSKTS is the best for sharpening EDC knives. If you have a Spyderco or a Cold Steel blade or a CRKT knife, you're all set.

    The other 3 aren't very good. They are the fixed-position type, such that all you can do is press down and drag the knife through them. The only control you have is the pressure you exert downward. They're OK if you want to sharpen a cheap steak knife, but that's about it.

    The Work Sharp is completely different. It's more professional, like a sharpening steel or whetstone, because you get many more options. You can determine the angle of grind, and cross-angle each side of the blade. On the other hand, you can also quickly and easily ruin a knife with it, so practice a bit first until you get the hang of it.

    Here on the Internet, you'll find a gazillion articles and tutorials and videos on how to sharpen knives and some people can lead you to believe that it's a complicated business but it isn't. Putting a decent edge on a blade is fairly straightforward, provided you have the right tool for the job. The Work Sharp you got is absolutely perfect for resharpening a defense blade in any length up to about 6 inches. For kitchen knives like Henckels or Wusthofs, you'll want a diamond-steel tool. For Japanese or Chinese chef knives, you'll want a whetstone.

    If you try sharpening a quality Asian blade with a steel tool, you'll wreck them totally and be out $150 or more, depending. Try sharpening a serious German or Austrian blade with a whetstone, you'll be at it all day and get nowhere. But don't use the Work Sharp on any of these because it's unlikely you'll get a uniform edge - rather you'll get an uneven result and might well damage them. Once you have this all sorted out, you'll have a variety of tools, each designed for a specific type of blade and metal, and you'll have a technique for edging them.

    It's not rocket science, but expect to destroy a number of knives as you learn how to do it. Making mistakes comes with the territory. And congratulations on getting a really fine sharpener - you won't regret it.
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