Minimum requirements for an EDC knife?

This is a discussion on Minimum requirements for an EDC knife? within the Defensive Knives & Other Weapons forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; Forget brand names, there are lots of posts about which company makes the best knives. Tell us instead what your basic requirements are when knife ...

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Thread: Minimum requirements for an EDC knife?

  1. #1
    Ex Member Array Pete's Avatar
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    Minimum requirements for an EDC knife?

    Forget brand names, there are lots of posts about which company makes the best knives.
    Tell us instead what your basic requirements are when knife shopping.
    Answer as many as you can, add categories as you see fit.

    Folder or fixed?
    Handle material?
    Partially serrated or plain blade?
    Blade material?
    Blade length?
    Sheath material?
    Locking method?
    Tanto, spear or drop point?
    Clip location?

    Thanks, I'm interested to see how many people share the same preferences.

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  3. #2
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    Array buckeye .45's Avatar
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    Well, I'd prefer a fixed, but pretty much stuck with a folder for now, and I'm ok with that I guess and all further answers will be directed to folders.

    Handle has to be something with good grip that won't slip when wet. Smooth all metal handles look nice but can get slippery, I prefer something textured, be it some sort of plastic or metal with something for grip.

    Plain blade, just a personal choice for an EDC knife for defense, although serrations are good for a working knife.

    Blade material - a good stainless steel that won't rust. AUS 8 or 440B or above, 440A minimum. VB-10 also works.

    I like just about 3 inches for blade length. long enough to be useable and do the job, but not so long its uncomfortable for packet carry all day.

    No sheath for my folders, but a good pocket clip is a must.

    Axis lock or back lock. Not a big fan of liner locks for EDC.

    Spear point or something similar. But for a good utility/work knife a tanto works well.

    Clip for strong side pocket, up or down depends on opening method.

    You didn't include opening method, but I will. I really like the wave, don't care for thumbholes without the wave, would rather have thumb studs. Of course an auto knife is always preferable to any of those.
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    Senior Member Array cockedlocked01's Avatar
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    Well, for an EDC, it would have to be a folder, because I live in CA.

    A fixed, unless it's less than 2" needs to be open carried.

    I'd prefer G-10 or similar material for the handle.

    Since it needs to be an all-around knife, I'd want it partially serrated.

    I'd prefer 440c minimum (AUS 10) is the rough equivelant. 154 CM or equivelant would be better.

    Since I'm carrying it concealed, I'd probably want at least a 3" blade, but not much more as I want to be comfortable with it clipped to the inside of my pocket.

    No sheath, since it's a folder.

    I'm fine with liner lockers, like my Emerson.

    Drop point is probably better for over-all use.

    I like the clip to be at the end of the knife (Kind of like the Meyerco you sold me & the SOG you have).
    "Use human means as though divine ones didn't exist, and divine means as though there were no human ones." Baltasar Gracian
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  5. #4
    Distinguished Member Array Chooie's Avatar
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    If limited to only one, I'd want partial razor sharp/partial veff serrated, like the Mini My Tighe from CRKT.



    It's a 3" blade, which is legal in most places, and is also more comfortable to carry than the full size My Tighe, which has a 3 5/8" blade. That little bit of loss makes for a knife that is nearly an inch shorter in the pocket.

  6. #5
    Member Array arawn's Avatar
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    My Munroe Stormcrow is pretty much my ideal EDC as far as a folder goes (my only viable option when I was living in CA).


    Now that I'm in TX I'll be transitioning over to a similarly sized (3-4" blade) fixed-blade knife sooner or later.

    Specs of the Stormcrow:
    3.5" CPM-S30V blade
    3 starter serrations in case of rope, etc
    8' overall
    tip down clip (although I don't really have a preference)
    Ti liners thick enough to qual as frame-lock build
    Urban G10 handle slabs


    Later,
    B.

    B.

  7. #6
    Distinguished Member Array Bob The Great's Avatar
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    I tend to carry folding knives, synthetic handled, mostly between 3" and 4".

    Partially serrated is a must for me; I use my knife too heavily to be without it.

    Whatever type of lock, it must be one-handed, both opening and closing, and easy to operate quickly. I've had liner-locks fail to engage and allow the blade to scissor back on my finger before, but I attribute that primarily to poor technique and user error. I've gotten to be a fan of the dual lock employed on the Gerber Applegate-Fairbairne Folders, because the second lock will not budge unless the liner lock is fully engaged.

    The blade has to be reasonably thick, and strong, but I haven't settled on a "favorite" steel. My knife gets used for all kinds of things besides cutting (yes, I know; I'm an abusive monster.) I'm not too particular on blade style though. Tanto blades are exotic-looking, but a good spear-point does everything I need it to.

    I gave up sheaths a long time ago, in favor of clipping my knife to the inside of my front strong-side pocket.

  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0.02 View Post
    Folder or fixed? I prefer fixed, but a folder is much more convenient for me.

    Handle material? I really dont care what its made out of, but I am sure to chose one that does not become slick if sweaty, bloody, muddy etc.

    Partially serrated or plain blade? Combo blade. I use my knife to cut through all kinds of stuff, the serrations really make it easier.

    Blade material? Whatever is the strongest and best at holding a edge at the time.

    Blade length? At least 3"

    Sheath material? I dont care.

    Locking method? depends on the knife and who made it. I've been very pleased with the axis lock

    Tanto, spear or drop point? I really dont care. I'm not Rambo, just give me a good edge.

    Clip location? I carry offside, strong side is for guns or H2H. if the knife comes out, its coming out of "no where" I like my blade upward, and facing forward on my left side.
    Most important to me is construction strength and over all quality of the build. I hate cheap knives passed on as quality, especially the ones with a gun makers name stamped on it. People seem to assume that means its a quality knife.
    "Just blame Sixto"

  9. #8
    VIP Member Array eagle5's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jchoo View Post
    If limited to only one, I'd want partial razor sharp/partial veff serrated, like the Mini My Tighe from CRKT.
    I agree! I have one and use it for EDC. The handle is excellent and the whole package is balanced. The Mini My Tighe also lacks CRKT's AutoLawks feature. Some like the AutoLawks, some don't. I'm included in the don't. CRKT makes a great knife, and their quality definitely shines through with the Mini.

    This is a link to previous thread introducing the Mini I picked up: http://www.combatcarry.com/vbulletin...ad.php?t=21916

  10. #9
    Ex Member Array Pete's Avatar
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    I think I need to answer my own question.

    My minimum requirements for EDC are:

    Folder or fixed?
    Folder. Fixed for BUK.
    Handle material?
    Aluminum, preferably painted/treated for grip.
    Partially serrated or plain blade?
    Plain jane, I only like serrated blades on small 'emergency' knives like the Subcom.
    Blade material?
    AUS 8 is good enough.
    Blade length?
    3" minimum, 4" maximum.
    Sheath material?
    If applicable (multitool) then leather only.
    Locking method?
    Back.
    Tanto, spear or drop point?
    Spear, tantos annoy me at sharpening time.
    Clip location?
    No preference, as long as I remember which end when it's time to open.

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