blade sharpening? - Page 2

blade sharpening?

This is a discussion on blade sharpening? within the Defensive Knives & Other Weapons forums, part of the Defensive Carry Discussions category; Originally Posted by LongRider Normally I do not like those carbide sharpeners due to their fixed sharpening angle. These look like they may be adjustable. ...

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Thread: blade sharpening?

  1. #16
    Senior Member Array bbqgrill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by LongRider View Post
    Normally I do not like those carbide sharpeners due to their fixed sharpening angle. These look like they may be adjustable. Are they?

    The blades can be replaced but the way they are recessed it would be difficult to change the angle and have the carbide bit stay in place. The fixed angle is a draw back; you can't sharpen real thick blades like my Woodsmans Pal, axes or meat cleavers I still free hand these on a stone. I after I became a convert to the Redi Edge I did have to re-bevel one of my older knives to match the Redi Edge.

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  2. #17
    Member Array Hat3d1's Avatar
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    Anyone have a good video tutorial on how to learn free handing with a wet stone? Might give me something to do tonight, I have a old Bayonet that could use an edge... :D

    ( I have a 3 piece Diamond stone kit )
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  3. #18
    Member Array flyby's Avatar
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    Alternately there is Convex edging ..more forgiving to obtain freehand and more durable than than conventional beveled edges.
    Heres some Good Information on it..(whats needed, reprofiling conventional edges, free video clips etc..)..
    (tutorial clips scroll down page)..
    KnivesShipFree.com - Free Shipping! - Convex Sharpening Videos - Convex Sharpening Videos
    http://www.oldjimbo.com/survival/valiant5.html
    The Convex Edge
    YouTube - Sharpening a convex knife - dull to shaving sharp
    YouTube - Convex Edge Sharpening
    YouTube - Convex Edge Sharpening part 2
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  4. #19
    VIP Member Array LongRider's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by packinnova View Post
    So I'm just suggesting folks spend the time to read up on the basics and learn on a stone first.
    The flip side of that is many folks use stones and have no idea what a sharp knife is. Or they sharpen the edge at such a shallow angle that the blade is paper thin. In that way a sharpening system may help them learn what they are trying to accomplish.

    Quote Originally Posted by C9H13NO3 View Post
    But if that works for them, why not?.
    Only because there may be a time they need a sharp knife and the only thing around is a rock or coffee cup

    Quote Originally Posted by C9H13NO3 View Post
    I know a few people who either sell or throw away their knives once they get dull, and buy new ones.
    Some folks have more money than sense. I never understood those folks but if they like they can throw their used knives my way.
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  5. #20
    Member Array theghostrider's Avatar
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    Pcon,

    That knife is one of the Buck Alpha Hunters. They are cool. I picked up one from Wal Mart on closeout years ago, but took it back because the thumbstud was loose, and it would have required me to send it to Buck to get it fixed. They are tanks, weighing in at 8 oz.

    What would work best for sharpening them really depends on your skill level, and how much you are willing to do to aquire any sharpening skill.

    I’d say one thing you will definitely need to do is put a new bevel on the knife (you might even call Buck to see if they will sharpen it for you. They usually put a pretty good edge on their knives, so if they are willing, it wouldn’t be all that bad. Then go learn on less important knives). Putting a new bevel on it means stock removal, and chances are very coarse grit, or diamond hone will work best. Then, gradually go finer or less coarse until you get to the fine hones.

    The Lansky kit is good stuff. If you get the deluxe version, you’ll get coarse and extra coarse for stock removal, as well as an extra fine hone. Most people don’t need the deluxe version most of the time, but they usually need it once in a while. You definitely would benefit from the deluxe if your not exaggerating the shape that your edge is in.

    The Edge Pro sharpening kits are reportedly better than the Lansky, but then they are also quite a bit more.

    Both kits will do the stock removal that your knife apparently needs. Both are also not easy fixes per se. They both require a set up, and are not simple like a flat stone. You have to place the knife in a clamp, and clamp the guide rods into the different hones, all the while maintaining consistency. It can be done. Lots of people have done it, but it’s not as easy as breaking out a flat stone.

    The Sharpmaker is also a great kit to have. It’s much easier to use than the previously mentioned one, but it doesn’t do the stock removal (unless you buy the diamond rods) that the other two do.

    The other tools (like the aforementioned Redi-Edge, and other pull through sharpeners) have many satisfied customers, but like the Sharpmaker, are mainly designed to keep up on edge maintenance, rather than completely reset the bevel.
    Quote Originally Posted by bbqgrill View Post
    Wow, take a breath man, don't hate the technology.

    I can use a stone and I have one of the "fancy" Lansky kits that I do not use now. If you had followed my link you would see a product that is as simple and small as a stone. The advantages of the product is that it produces a perfect edge in literally seconds and there is an unquestionably even bevel angle on both sides of the blade. Also, in my kitchen where knives are not treated as roughly as my hunting knife I use a butchers steel to maintain a fine edge.
    Just so you’ll know, those “V” type sharpeners, that are “draw through” (like the Redi-Edge) are reported to actually damage the edge. I guess the reasoning is that they tend to chip away at the edge, leaving it jagged and uneven. I’ve used them myself with good results, so I really don’t see why they make such an issue of it.

    Quote Originally Posted by packinnova View Post
    My real issue is that if you look at the vast majority of folks that go and get the spiffy sharpening kits first time out, most of them never learn to properly sharpen a blade with anything else. More often then not they got those fancy sharpeners because they can't sharpen anything with a stone or tried and failed miserably. Clearly that's not the case with some of the folks on DC but IMO that's been the general observation I've had over the years.

    So I'm just suggesting folks spend the time to read up on the basics and learn on a stone first.
    Good advice to learn how to sharpen a knife, but unfortunately, not everyone is going to take the time to learn that skill. For them, a simple pocket sharpener will suite them just fine, and kit’s like the Lansky will also serve them well. Don’t think of it as an alternative to learning how to freehand, but instead look at it as an alternative to carrying around a dull pocketknife, which is what would happen if they didn’t have such kits. Sharpening is a lost art, and if kits allow people to keep their knives sharp when they would otherwise not be sharp, that isn’t a bad thing.

    The up side of that is that some people who start out with the kits do delve deeper into it and start trying out freehand. If you think about it, it is a natural progression.
    Last edited by theghostrider; March 1st, 2009 at 11:33 PM.

  6. #21
    Member Array 50calshooter's Avatar
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    Smile Diamond sharpeners

    The trend at Cabela's is to move away from the traditional wet stone that your dad used and into this new blade sharpening material with some type of diamond composite. The stone is light and silver in color - works like a DREAM.

    Look for 'em - they should be everywhere.

  7. #22
    Member Array johnsonabq's Avatar
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    Will the Lansky or Redi-Edge work for knives with partial or full serration?
    Jeff
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  8. #23
    Member Array flyby's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnsonabq View Post
    Will the Lansky or Redi-Edge work for knives with partial or full serration?
    Lansky has an optional triangle serration stone for their basic clamp guide system that works pretty well..as does the spyderco triangle sharpmaker ..But its still hard to get into the finer serrations on many blades.
    As for the redi-edge carbide slot sharpener(if thats the one you mean) will chip and ruin your serrations.

    But I've found using a piece of 1000-2000 grit sandpaper(folded) and polishing out the grooves(following the initial angle and scallop) Then wiping any burr off flush on the opposite flat side of blade with the paper, works extremely well on my spyderco, kershaw, gerber etc.. if your blades are Really dull or damaged you might want to start 400-600 grit first.

    Actually I've been able to get my serrations back to hair/paper shaving sharp pretty easily and quickly just using the folded sandpaper method..and is now what I use solely for serrations .

    But I still prefer plain edge blades when it comes to sharpening ;)
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  9. #24
    Member Array Hotbrass's Avatar
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    Easy as pie. Even an unlistening wife can do it.

    YouTube - Sharpening Tools/Kits : Part 2 - Spyderco Sharpmaker
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  10. #25
    Member Array sawyerrt10's Avatar
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    I use a whetstone for my sharpening needs, Know how to do it anyway, just don't have the patience. My best friend sharpens mine for me about once a month, unless I really over use it, it will run hair every day between touch ups.
    Both of my EDC's have a tanto type blade and combo blade (half & half)
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  11. #26
    VIP Member Array wmhawth's Avatar
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    I use a stone for sharpening my old Buck Folding Hunter followed by a stropping with a leather strap. Takes a bit of work but once sharp that old Buck really holds its edge.
    Be reasonable. See things my way.

  12. #27
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    I sometimes go two ways...I can use a stone with oil, but when I really want a razor...I'll go up to a knife shop in the mall and let a pro make me a 'shaver'...
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  13. #28
    Senior Member Array dnowell's Avatar
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    Using a stone really isn't that hard. I use a simple stone and it puts a better edge on it than the knife store does when I pay them $5 to do it.

    The worst you can do is put too fine of an edge on it. In that case it'll get dull quickly. At that point you sharpen it again with a different angle. Repeat until you're not a klutz anymore. Took me about five tries, which is about four more than it will take most people.

    Pro-tip: sharpen an old kitchen knife first so you don't screw up your 1969 Collectible Woodstock Commemorative Kabar.

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