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What's everybody do to keep their carry blades in top shape? I keep mine rubbed down with a little CLP from time to time and sharpen when needed. I need a better sharpener though. Any advice on a good sharpener for light duty that won't break the bank? I have a pair of Spyderco Natives, a Kershaw Chive and a few cheapo autos.
Thanks.
I guess it depends on the size of the bank. I bought a Spyderco Triangle sharpener when they first hit the market. That was better than 12 yrs or so ago. Purchase price over 12 years = a pretty good deal IMHO. It is still going strong. It's easy to use and works on just about anything.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wasabi
I use to know a couple leather handlers at and old shoe making company. They used a sharpening grit paste and a piece of leather. Made their knives razor sharp.
Shhhhhh, now everyones going to know.Quote:
They used a sharpening grit paste and a piece of leather. Made their knives razor sharp.
Seriously though if you want sharp get some jewelers rouge and put it on your strop and it will make your knife hair popping sharp.
And another secret is you can use a lot of other stuff besides leather as a strop. My personal favorite is a stack of notecards. Cardboard works real well and so does denim. Wiping the knife on your pants a few times will help a little.
I usually Loctite the pivot screws on folders where necessary.. other than that what you mentioned ..oh and clean the blade with Naphtha (Zippo type lighter fluid) or goo-gone to get tape glue etc off the blade(from opening packages etc..
I use Eezox as a corrosion preventive, I find its drier action adheres better and lasts longer..and less mess. Paste wax stays on well also
unless it is a carbon steel blade you generally won't have to worry much about corrosion as long as you keep the blade clean and dry.
I have an old DMT diamond set. It has coarse, med, fine and x fine. Absolutely love it. The only issue I have is that it is the small stones. I want to get the bigger ones. I also made my own strop. Took a piece of 2x4 and glued 2 pieces of leather to it. One side is the rough side with jewelers rouge on it. The other side is the smooth side. I go through the entire sharpening set, then rough leather, and finish with the smooth leather. Hair popping is right. You can also do quick touch ups with the leather.
The Spyderco Sharpmaker was one of the best investments I have made. I bought mine a while ago (like 7 or 8 yrs) and it's still kicking. I can sharpen all sorts of things: knives of various blade designs, scissors, potato peelers, nail clippers etc. It even comes with an instructional video.Quote:
Originally Posted by Knuckledrager
I like to disassemble my knives as far as they can go and clean all of the lint and crud that collect from them. Make sure all of the surface on surface contacts are properly lubed with sewing machine oil and bolt them back up.
The word Stainless in Steel simply means more resistant, Not impervious to corrosion ..If you lived right on a Coast you'd probably already know this ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Chiller2
Under normal use I've had to buff off light rust on more than one occasion on stainless blades..aus8, salt air etc..
May I suggest a Lansky sharpening system Lansky Deluxe Knife Sharpening System It lets you determine which of the 4 angles you want, and will keep the stone there. Works like a charm!!
I have a Lansky Sharpening System...works great.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackle1886
That is why I said keep the blade clean and dry. The humidity in the summer around here is regularly over 90% in the summer so far I have had no issues as long as I keep my blades clean and dry. On the the coast with the salt air it may be more of an issue.Quote:
Originally Posted by flyby
I have a Spyderco folder, Delica I believe. My wife got it for me as a birthday years ago. It has about a 3 1/2 inch blade. I use it all the time (letter opener, box opener, etc), so the blade is in various states.
I have a synthetic stone with a course and medium sides, a fine natural stone and some diamond sharpeners.
I usually start with the diamond if the blade is really bad, otherwise, I start with the medium stone. I don't always to to the fine stone, as a smooth edge is harder to maintain (cardboard is tough on steel).
I have a stroop as I have two straight razors, one which I use to shave. A stroop is really only useful to smooth out finished edge, to keep it from nicking you when you shave.
Using leather with grit will only do you good, if the blade is already sharp and you want to smooth it out. I wouldn't suggest it unless you really want to invest time in sharpening.
Since I use my knife almost every day, that kind of edge wouldn't last. Of course, since I use it everyday, It's in my hand and open before I'm done thinking "I need my knife".
Light oil on the hinge. Either sewing machine or a gun oil. Not 3-in-one or WD40. They have additives that dry out and gum up the works. Cooking shortening works also. No really, it does, but go light.
A friend (and knowledgable hunter) once told me that most knife sharpening should be done with a steel as opposed to a stone. I use an F-Dick sharpener I got at a butcher shop. I had been looking for one and couldn't find it at any cutlery/ knife stores. I walked in to buy some bulk hamburgers and stumbled on the one I had been searching for. Works wonders. It's the plain one with the bright orange handle.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wasabi
Butchers steels don't actually sharpen knifes they realign the edges.Most kitchen knifes are made of thin steel and with use the edge becomes wavy and out of alignment and doesnt cut as well the steel aligns the edge back up.It is good for maintaining an edge but not sharpening a dull knifeQuote:
Originally Posted by SC Tiger