duracoating an AK

duracoating an AK

This is a discussion on duracoating an AK within the Defensive Rifles & Shotgun Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; I am going to start my second saiga ak conversion. This one will be for my girlfriend. She has requested that the gun be teal, ...

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  1. #1
    Senior Member Array zeppelin03's Avatar
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    duracoating an AK

    I am going to start my second saiga ak conversion. This one will be for my girlfriend. She has requested that the gun be teal, so now I am looking at duracoat.

    Is there any section of the rifle that cannot be duracoated? I would assume the stuff is heat resistant and would be fine on the barrel and gas tube.

    I guess an entirely teal ak isn't the worst thing ever... Better than the red she originally wanted.


  2. #2
    Ex Member Array Yankeejib's Avatar
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    Have you done Duracoat? Air brushes are a must, prep is the absolute key to a flawless finish. Duracoat will stand up to temps, but you'll never ever get it off either. The only solution is to recoat. If you need more help, PM me and I'll share what I know.

  3. #3
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    You dont need to coat the inside of the reciever. Everything else is OK.
    For the best finish on an AK, you need to sandblast it to the bare metal and get that cheapo finish off. Otherwise, the DuraCoat is only as tough as the original coat...which you can scratch off with a fingernail in some cases.
    I would rather stand against the cannons of the wicked than against the prayers of the righteous.


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  4. #4
    Senior Member Array zeppelin03's Avatar
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    I guess she changes her mind and decide to change the color on the furniture. any trick to getting it to stick in plastic stock and handguards?

  5. #5
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    Hit it with ScotchBrite to give it a little "bite" and you'll have no issues.
    I would rather stand against the cannons of the wicked than against the prayers of the righteous.


    AR. CHL Instr. 07/02 FFL
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  6. #6
    Senior Member Array zeppelin03's Avatar
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    great!

    got some light steel wool. should do the trick

  7. #7
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    That'll work.
    I would rather stand against the cannons of the wicked than against the prayers of the righteous.


    AR. CHL Instr. 07/02 FFL
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  8. #8
    Ex Member Array Yankeejib's Avatar
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    Scotchbrite it real good. I avoid steel wool for this. Too much dust. Scuff up everything real well. Use a tool to help scuff up in crevices and corners. Then a good cleaning. Their degreaser is good, but acetone or MEK is also suitable. I always disassemble any moving parts, pins, mag buttons, etc. Using latex gloves to prevent body oils from transferring, I use blue masking tape to mask off the innards and trim it up real nice with a pointy xacto blade. I also use a wee bit of reducer in the first coat, spray it light, and let it dry 15 minutes. Then it's time to coat. I go three passes over everything, then go back and hit the high wear areas (corners and edges) a little extra. Then I go to the oven for 20 minutes at 120 degrees (I usually build a coat hanger jig to hold/rotate/bake whatever I'm shooting). This is what has given me the best result. Every time I've cut corners, it's not been as good. Like Hotguns says, the durability is only as good as what you spray it over. Get it clean. Send pics of the teal AK.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Array Devilsclaw's Avatar
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    Here is my experience with Duracoat.

    First off, blasting it is pretty much mandatory on metal, I don't know about plastic--never done it. Make sure you don't use glass bead or anything with silica in it. I use garnet 80 gr. at 90-120 psi with great results.

    Next, make sure you have enough air. I don't mean air "pressure" necessarily, but capacity. Don't try to use those little hobby air cans, use a real air compressor, filtered and dry of course. The small air cans run outta steam fast, even in a bucket of hot water, and end up giving you a globby rough finish, right at then end when you are putting on the finishing touches.

    I have found that the best finish comes when you shoot the Duracoat on hot parts. A hot summer sun works good, but this time of year, that's probably out, so getting your parts hot some other way would work too. If you can get your parts in the 150 degree range, that works about right. It flashes off almost instantly, and for me, has always given the nicest-looking, most durable, and most professional finish. Duracoat doesn't really recommend this, but I'm just telling you what has worked well for me. (metal parts only of course)

    Lastly, get it CLEAN. I mean surgically clean. If there is any hint of oil, it won't stick, even to a blasted surface. Don't just spray areas where oil has been--scrub it with a bronze brush.

    If you don't glob it on really thick, it can be removed--although it is a female dog to do sometimes. The really good strippers, rated for EPOXY, will do it but it might take several applications. The regular "Wally World" type strippers don't work--they just make a mess. Unfortunately, I cannot remember the ingredient you want, but every EPOXY stripper I've ever found has it.

    I do pretty much everything on an AK but the stock, but that's just me. Plugging the barrel with a used shell at breach and wooden dowel at muzzle of course.

    These are my experiences--YMMV.

  10. #10
    Member Array woodstock's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HotGuns View Post
    You dont need to coat the inside of the reciever. Everything else is OK.
    For the best finish on an AK, you need to sandblast it to the bare metal and get that cheapo finish off. Otherwise, the DuraCoat is only as tough as the original coat...which you can scratch off with a fingernail in some cases.
    Another board I read had this link, Shopbuilt • View topic - Soda Blasting...Woooooo! . It shows what they called "soda blasting", using baking soda instead of sand. If the photo there shows the true result, it's an awesome alternative to sand. I haven't tried it yet, but hope to one day.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yankeejib View Post
    Have you done Duracoat? Air brushes are a must, prep is the absolute key to a flawless finish. Duracoat will stand up to temps, but you'll never ever get it off either. The only solution is to recoat. If you need more help, PM me and I'll share what I know.
    ^^ That, for the most part, and DuraCoat does offer a hi-temp paint especially for barrels, etc. Check their site for info. On my first attempt, I messed it up. Paint stripper gel removed it with ease.
    Retired USAF E-8. Lighten up and enjoy life because:
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