Stuck Barrel Nut (Bushmaster)

This is a discussion on Stuck Barrel Nut (Bushmaster) within the Defensive Rifles & Shotgun Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; I have a Bushmaster carbine with the welded on flash suppressor and am trying to remove the barrel to install a free float railed hand ...

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Thread: Stuck Barrel Nut (Bushmaster)

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    Stuck Barrel Nut (Bushmaster)

    I have a Bushmaster carbine with the welded on flash suppressor and am trying to remove the barrel to install a free float railed hand gaurd but the barrel nut appears to be stuck. I am using Bushmaster's Barrel Vise Jaw Blocks to hold the barrel and Armorer's Barrel Wrench but the barrel spins in the barrel vise when I try to remove the nut. It is as if the nut is welded on. If I tighten the vise on the barrel any tighter I am afraid I will start to crush the barrel. I have already broken one vise tightening it down on the barrel. What the hell am I doing wrong am I missing something?

    Please no BS about the Bushmaster or I should have bought a better AR, or whatever. It is what I have and what I am working on. Any help with getting this freaking nut loose would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
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    Well, I found out the hard way that Bushmaster uses red loc-tite on their castle nuts.

    Maybe they use it elsewhere on their rifles.
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    If they do use red Locktite then heating the barrel nut may soften the Locktite enough to allow the barrel nut to be removed.
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    I am contemplating similar actions on an identical Bushy. There has been talk of inconsistent quality of workmanship over the years. It is quite possible that they put locktite on instead of an anti seize compound. I would suggest a judicious application of heat via a small propane or butane torch.
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    two ways to get it off.... one is an impact wrench and the other way is to wrap the barrel with some rubber like an old tire tube and this will help stop it from spinning in the vise

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    Quote Originally Posted by msgt/ret View Post
    If they do use red Locktite then heating the barrel nut may soften the Locktite enough to allow the barrel nut to be removed.
    This right here. If they do not use the red loc-tite, try pb catalyst PB Penetrating Catalyst
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    VIP Member Array jonconsiglio's Avatar
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    You need to hold the upper receiver in place in the vice, not the barrel. Using a receiver block, which is basically a piece that the vice grips onto and then the receiver fits over, you'll then crank the barrel nut off. Holding the barrel, using a barrel block, is only necessary for the flash hider.

    My concern though, is this. Once you get the barrel nut off, you will not be able to remove it due to the flash hider being pinned on. You'll either need to send it off or drill out the weld and pin. Contrary to popular belief, you can drill right through the threads if you have to and the barrel will be fine. You will need to replace the flash hider though.
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonconsiglio View Post
    My concern though, is this. Once you get the barrel nut off, you will not be able to remove it due to the flash hider being pinned on. You'll either need to send it off or drill out the weld and pin. Contrary to popular belief, you can drill right through the threads if you have to and the barrel will be fine. You will need to replace the flash hider though.
    A concern I have as well, though it appears it will clear the flash hider. If not I can cut it off as the Yankee hill has its own barrel nut that will slide over the flash hider, so that it can free float. Another wasted part if I have to cut it off.

    I thought you could drill out the pins too but when I had a hard time finding where the pins are located the Bushmaster tech told me that if I do that that it can not be replaced. Despite the fact that Bushmasters website gives directions on how to remove the pinned flash hider. According to the Bushmaster tech it can not be replaced which in effect makes the barrel illegal. I went rounds with him for about ten minutes and he was adamant that I could not buy another flash hider, and pin it. So I ended up cutting off the fronts sight after wasting 40 some odd bucks on Brownels AR-15 Front sight bench block and a wasted front sight.
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    He was wrong. ADCO does it all the time and I know a few guys that have had it done. Are you sure the YHM's barrel nut will slide over? You'd still need to remove the gas block or front sight block, and install another. I don't believe any gas blocks will fit over the flash hider.
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonconsiglio View Post
    He was wrong. ADCO does it all the time and I know a few guys that have had it done.
    SOB I am going to check back with them. If that is the case I have some choice words for him. Have wait until I go into town to get heat gun all I have is torches

    Quote Originally Posted by jonconsiglio View Post
    Are you sure the YHM's barrel nut will slide over? You'd still need to remove the gas block or front sight block, and install another. I don't believe any gas blocks will fit over the flash hider.
    Yes I checked, by sliding it over, no problem there. Because the I did not remover the flash hider I had to cut off the sight / gasblock and am replacing it with a two part YHM Clamp-on Folding Front Sight Gas Block
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    Ok, that makes more sense now! Just a quick word of advice though, be very careful with clamp on gas blocks, they have a tendency to leak, slip with light impacts and loosen over time. Make sure you secure it well. If your hand guard extends over it, you shouldn't have anything to worry about, just check it now and then.

    Check out ADCO for the information. I believe it's posted on their website that it's not a problem to drill it out. It's either there or on ar15barrels.com. Either way, it's not an issue at all.
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    VIP Member Array 40Bob's Avatar
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    I removed a Bushmaster nut for a friend, was a freefloat tube. I used a receiver block, not a BBL block. I broke my AR Armorers wrench and ended up making one from a large washer and 1/4 rod to take off the silly round nut.

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    Listen to Jon,he knows through exp,he is D.C's go-to guy on AR's.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jonconsiglio View Post
    Ok, that makes more sense now! Just a quick word of advice though, be very careful with clamp on gas blocks, they have a tendency to leak, slip with light impacts and loosen over time. Make sure you secure it well. If your hand guard extends over it, you shouldn't have anything to worry about, just check it now and then.

    Check out ADCO for the information. I believe it's posted on their website that it's not a problem to drill it out. It's either there or on ar15barrels.com. Either way, it's not an issue at all.
    Amen. Dimple the barrel where the set screws bite the barrel and use rockset on the screw threads instead of loctite.
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    Quote Originally Posted by glockrocker View Post
    Listen to Jon,he knows through exp,he is D.C's go-to guy on AR's.

    Really? Yesterday somebody else was the "go to guy" for ARs. Look....if you guys can't actually bring me your your problem guns, then I'm not much help. I'd fix you up ASAP. No BS coming forthwith on the Bushmaster. Sad a guy feels embarrassed to ask about something that may not fit into the status quo around here. I've been dealing with Bushmaster for over 13 years. I have one myself. I'm just a part time gunsmith now.
    Should you have got something better? Well, I guess that goes with the flow. I keep spare parts for all of my firearms. I'm a civilian now and I do have a budget. I also have plenty of years behind each and every gun I own and that's plenty of time put in to my thinking. Many might be appalled at my choices, however my choices have always worked for me and I do put them all through the paces otherwise I simply wouldn't speak of them at all.

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