Removing the Castle nut
This is a discussion on Removing the Castle nut within the Defensive Rifles & Shotgun Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; I wanted to add a 1 point sling attachment to my AR,seemed simple enough until I got to the Castle nut. Is there an easier ...
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Post By tacman605
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Post By dukalmighty
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October 7th, 2012 07:35 AM
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Removing the Castle nut
I wanted to add a 1 point sling attachment to my AR,seemed simple enough until I got to the Castle nut. Is there an easier way to remove this? I have the wrenches but I cant get it to budge. I don't know how many banannas they gave the gorilla that tightened it down but I cant get it to move. any ideas?
I would rather die standing up than live life on my knees.
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October 7th, 2012 07:35 AM
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October 7th, 2012 07:54 AM
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The castle nuts are usually staked. You need to file out or Dremel the "staked" part of it so that it moves.
Its also possible that it is locktited. Get a hair dryer or heat gun to warm it up and break the bond.
It is better to live one day as a lion, than a thousand years as a lamb...
AR. CHL Instr. 07/02 FFL
Maker of cool things to shoot
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October 7th, 2012 08:01 AM
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Thanks, I didn't think about it being Locktited. I read a few people had to take theirs to a Gunsmith and have him loosen it.
I would rather die standing up than live life on my knees.
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October 7th, 2012 08:09 AM
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Poppy37.
You may already know this but under the retaining plate is a spring and a detent. It maintains pressure on the rear take down pin without it the pin will continually slide out.
When you remove that plate unless you know it is there and careful it will fly out they also can be a pain to get back in. Be careful when taking it off. There is also another spring and detent at the top of the pistol grip on the right hand side. This maintains pressure on the selector switch/safety. When you remove the pistol grip they can come out.
"A first rate man with a third rate gun is far better than the other way around". The gun is a tool, you are the craftsman that makes it work. There are those who say "if I had to do it, I could" yet they never go out and train to do it. (WETSU)
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October 7th, 2012 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by
tacman605
Poppy37.
You may already know this but under the retaining plate is a spring and a detent. It maintains pressure on the rear take down pin without it the pin will continually slide out.
When you remove that plate unless you know it is there and careful it will fly out they also can be a pain to get back in. Be careful when taking it off. There is also another spring and detent at the top of the pistol grip on the right hand side. This maintains pressure on the selector switch/safety. When you remove the pistol grip they can come out.
This is great info, I saw a YouTube video that saved me on both springs when I removed my castle nut and replaced my grip. Check out YouTube, some video will show this.
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October 7th, 2012 08:44 AM
#6
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Originally Posted by
poppy37
Thanks, I didn't think about it being Locktited. I read a few people had to take theirs to a Gunsmith and have him loosen it.
I learned from experience, that Bushmaster uses red loc-tite on their castle nuts. You may want to call the manufacturer, and ask them what their procedure is.
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October 7th, 2012 08:53 AM
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Thanks for the info, I'll give it a try, I knew about the spring behind the pistol grip but not the spring under the retaining plate. Thast could have been a surprise.
I would rather die standing up than live life on my knees.
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October 7th, 2012 09:12 AM
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If you have a lower receiver block and a vise that will help greatly.
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October 7th, 2012 09:17 AM
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The Locktite bond is made to be broken by heat. Using a heat gun or a hair dryer will work as long as you keep it moving. Of course, you need to be careful with that stock.
It is better to live one day as a lion, than a thousand years as a lamb...
AR. CHL Instr. 07/02 FFL
Maker of cool things to shoot
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October 7th, 2012 11:06 AM
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Glad it helped and yes it can be a problem if they fly out.
There is a modification I saw where the hole under the plate is tapped and a set screw is inserted that ends this problem.
"A first rate man with a third rate gun is far better than the other way around". The gun is a tool, you are the craftsman that makes it work. There are those who say "if I had to do it, I could" yet they never go out and train to do it. (WETSU)
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October 7th, 2012 04:45 PM
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I thought this was gonna be something about the "White House"
"Outside of the killings, Washington has one of the lowest crime rates in the country,"
--Mayor Marion Barry, Washington , DC .
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October 10th, 2012 10:41 AM
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LockTite?!?! I hope not. Ever get that castle nut loose Poppy?
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October 10th, 2012 06:49 PM
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On my 6720 I had to use a cheater bar and basically hang from it. On both of my KAC's I just used a little force with the standard wrench.
Heat it if ou think there's loctite. As mentioned, you can remove the staking. It's actually pretty easy to loosen a staked castle nut as the staking simply breaks off, but removing it first is a good idea.
Don't be afraid to put some serious muscle into it, just be sure it's supported correctly.
Proven combat techniques may not be flashy and may require a bit more physical effort on the part of the shooter. Further, they may not win competition matches, but they will help ensure your survival in a shooting or gunfight on the street. ~Paul Howe
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