Ruger bolt dissassembly?

[P95Carry]

I have a Ruger 77 MkII - excellent lightweight rifle - in .223 Rem.

Last time out I had some issues with reliability and despite application of a small amount of lube to bolt inner workings - it was still not 100%. Every so often the FP was not moving full travel with normal speed - so misfired, with minimal pin contact.

I have a suspicion that there could be a flake of brass or primer metal gotten inside and while I could flush it out - thought dissassembly would be better bet.

Despite have an exploded view of the bolt - I am uncertain of best way to get it apart - realizing too the spring inside is pretty darned strong!

So - any ''bolt gurus'' here? Long shot I know but thought I'd ask.

[DefensiveCarry.com]

[Rob72]

Ugh, its been 8 years since I owned mine. I believe: cock it, and use a vise/vise grips to hold the bolt head (rear of the FP assembly), while unscrewing the bolt by the handle. Its going to take some pushing.

Sinclair Intl. may have a tool for you, to remove the spring w/o shooting yourself, or you can polish the bearing surface of the FP with the spring in place; just use lots of cleaner to wash all the grit off...

[P95Carry]

Thx - pretty much what I had visualized so far ..... just leary of the unknown I guess - apart from reassembly

I may yet do a total flush and relube.

[Rob72]

I got a feeling you're going to have to polish the FP and channel- the one I had was fairly rough.

[Supertac45]

Over the years, I've found a lot of factory crud (metal particles) inside of bolts.

[P95Carry]

Yep - me too - in particular inside old mauser and Enfield bolts.

I have chickened out of trying to dismantle this one for now and flushed it good with carb cleaner ... one or two bits came out but nothing huge. Anyways - all dried off and relubed with oil dip and then stood up and left to drain.

Dry fire right now the result is crisp and full power pin action so - next test will be range. Hopefully this might suffice.

[beardog]

I had a simular problem. The M77 bolt is quite easy to disassemble. On the back of the bolt there is a small hole. insert a coat hanger or some other small rod (I have used a nail) and unscrew the back and it will come appart. I do this about once a year to allof my rugers.

[P95Carry]

Brilliant! Thx ever so much - almost obvious really now I see it.

Introduced a medium size watchmakers screwdriver, felt the slight release and bingo - unscrewed easy.

Thx

[bmcgilvray]

Beardog beat me to it.

Chris, the same thing once happened to me the day before I was to leave on a deer hunt. In the middle of verifying the zero on a Ruger 77 .30-06 that I owned at the time, the gun ceased working. Proved to have a spec of brass in the bolt, hanging up the firing pin in its channel.

An old faithful Savage 99 in .300 Savage that I'd had for years was pressed into service with a quick scope verification done at a cold Club range in my business suit before work that next morning. It did the trick, adding yet another buck to it's "lodge pole" while the M77 languished behind.

Had time to look into the Ruger's problems the next week and found an insignificant speck of brass, too small in my view to hold up the show. It sure stopped the firing pin's travel cold.

[P95Carry]

Tell ya what Bryan - this just goes to show how invaluable this community is - obscure question but - feedback and good results.

Can't beat it Thx.

[snowdoctor]

I recently purchased a rugerr m77 in 270...I have copied and pasted the reply into a word document and printed it for my archives....
Thanks in advance in case this ever happens to mine down the line.
Chris...I can't agree more...this forum never ceases to amaze me, with its knowledge and experience....