Stripped Lower/Upper - Is there any difference?

This is a discussion on Stripped Lower/Upper - Is there any difference? within the Defensive Rifles & Shotgun Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; So, I have the bug to put together an AR. I have scoured the past posts with regards to this topic and have found some ...

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Thread: Stripped Lower/Upper - Is there any difference?

  1. #1
    Distinguished Member Array USPnTX's Avatar
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    Stripped Lower/Upper - Is there any difference?

    So, I have the bug to put together an AR. I have scoured the past posts with regards to this topic and have found some great information. I am wondering (it doesn't take much) about something however:

    Does it really matter which upper you utilize? I think I have the barrel narrowed down to either a 16.1" or 18" Noveske. With that said, I believe Noveske uses a CMT upper and bolt assembly when they assemble their AR's. If I were to use say a Stag upper and bolt assembly instead of the CMT would there be any performance tradeoff? It is my assumption that all upper and lower receivers are created equal.
    "Do not fear those who disagree with you; fear those that do and are too cowardly to admit it" - Napoleon

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    VIP Member Array matiki's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by USPnTX View Post
    So, I have the bug to put together an AR. I have scoured the past posts with regards to this topic and have found some great information. I am wondering (it doesn't take much) about something however:

    Does it really matter which upper you utilize? I think I have the barrel narrowed down to either a 16.1" or 18" Noveske. With that said, I believe Noveske uses a CMT upper and bolt assembly when they assemble their AR's. If I were to use say a Stag upper and bolt assembly instead of the CMT would there be any performance tradeoff? It is my assumption that all upper and lower receivers are created equal.
    Stag upper = CMT upper

    Rainier Arms, LLC™ | Browse | Receivers - Upper | Upper: CMT / STAG Assembly

    You've checked out AR15.COM right?

    The VLTOR MUR is thicker, but personally I am OK with the much less expensive CMT uppers.


    Edited to Add:

    AR15.COM :: Forums :: AR Lower Receiver FAQ (56k beware) MMS, CMT, LAR, LMT compared...

    Some of this is outdated:
    LMT = LMT, Lauer(old), DS Arms, PWA, Eagle, Knights Armament, Barrett, Bushmaster (?)
    CMT = Stag, RRA, High Standard, Noveske (old), Century (current), Global Tactical, CLE, S&W, MGI (1st batch), Wilson Tactical, (some?) Colt, Ratworx
    LAR = Grizzly, Bushmaster (L Prefix), Ameetech, (?)DPMS, CMMG, Double Star, Fulton, Spike's Tactical, Noveske (new)
    MMS = Mega, Gunsmoke, Dalphon, POF (forged), Alexander Arms, Stinger, Spike's Tactical(old)
    JVP = Double Star, LRB
    Olympic = Olypmic, SGW, Tromix, Palmetto, Dalphon, Frankford, (old) Century
    Superior = Superior Arms, Lauer (current)

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    VIP Member Array Redneck Repairs's Avatar
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    Does it really matter which upper you utilize?
    If you want " M4 accuracy and will shoot small targets at close range ( under 100 and real quick to break a clay pidgin ) then no not really .

    If you want to be able to shoot praire dogs at a half mile then hell yes the upper matters a lot . Before you ask such a question you must define the use of your ar . I tried to do an all gun with mine so it wears a 16" heavy barrel with a target crown and no flash device at all . It will shoot minute of coyote out at 500+ yards , and also is handy enough to swing in a pickup . It however would not be my first choice for an entry gun as the blast and flash are somewhat remarkable . It does nice on fufilling the mission of an out the truck fast gun that will on demand shoot well at roughly a quarter mile ... maby a bit more . Its not an m4 , its not a game gun , its a short snouted rifle that carrys extra weight in the barrel which performs to my needs and it weighs a pound more than the spec for a m16.
    You have to ask yourself " What do i want this rifle to do ? " and its likely that there is an upper to put on it ( assuming your lower build is right ) that will fulfill your desires both on accuracy and economics .
    Make sure you get full value out of today , Do something worthwhile, because what you do today will cost you one day off the rest of your life .
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    VIP Member Array aus71383's Avatar
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    I think you are talking about the upper receiver itself only - not the barrel, bolt carrier group, etc.. Also, your thread title mentions the lower - I will assume you are talking about just the lower receiver - not any of the parts inside it. If thats the case, my understanding is that as long as it is good quality (like CMT are) then it shouldn't make any real difference. The accuracy and reliability differences come more from the parts you put into the receivers than the receivers themselves, although if you start off with a piece of crap out of spec receiver then you will be off to a bad start. I would get whatever you can find cheapest that has a good reputation, or whatever you think has a cool rollmark, or one you just like for some unexplicable reason.

    Austin

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    VIP Member Array Redneck Repairs's Avatar
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    Heck why did i post , ... aus71 pretty much said it all had i just waited . Ill add that if you dont have the skills /tools to have a mini machine shop .. well moneys spent on recognized items ( they will likely cost more ) is money well spent . I own a mini mill and a mini lathe , i also have access to the real tools ( with a fine selection of tooling ) . I dont buy cheap be it on an 80 1911 or an 80 ar . on castings and a " diy gun build " you can almost bet that money spent is money well spent . I lost one ar lower because when push come to shove you just cannot deal with that loose a lockup between receivers . It cost me about 40 bucks and time . As i type here i have 4 non atf lowers ( somewhere between blank blocks and the mytical " 20 hrs " to complete a reciver that atf says you must have . I also have about 30 ( could have traded a couple ) of the tapco ak blanks , and a metal break ( i still have to build my first ak , i dont own a kit , just a lot of the blanks lol )

    Building your ar is a fine thing .. no matter where you build from. However have a rifle in mind when you build .
    "
    Make sure you get full value out of today , Do something worthwhile, because what you do today will cost you one day off the rest of your life .
    We only begin to understand folks after we stop and think .

    Criminals are looking for victims, not opponents.

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    Distinguished Member Array USPnTX's Avatar
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    I guess I put a very poorly written title on this thread. What I was trying to get at is if you are building an AR on your own, does the manufacturer of the upper or lower (ie a stripped receiver) really have that much impact on the finished product's accuracy?

    It sounds as though any of the major manufacturers out there build decent receivers. It also sounds like what matters the most is what you put into the stripped lower or upper. So the question arises - who makes the best parts?
    "Do not fear those who disagree with you; fear those that do and are too cowardly to admit it" - Napoleon

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    BAC
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    VIP Member Array BAC's Avatar
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    What do you want to do with this rifle?

    Since you're looking at a Noveske barrel, I'm assuming you're going for an SPR. I'd look into the MUR, VIS, or LaRue Stealth upper receivers.

    So far as the lower is concerned... yeah, CMT and LMT make 'em for almost everyone, and both apparently have at least some access to TDP. As long as the lower is forged and 7075-T6 aluminum or better (some, like me, add "and fits Pmags"), you're good.


    -B

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    VIP Member Array aus71383's Avatar
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    The barrel is all that really matters for accuracy IMO. You will probably want to free float it also, but that doesn't really have anything to do with the stripped upper. The lower will make no difference in accuracy. Look at the design and function of the weapon and it should all make sense. As to who makes the best parts, a lot of them are from the same places, but lots of companies don't seem to want to tell where they get theirs from. Then some companies will do MPI and/or HPT tests, proper staking, use different nickel and dime parts etc... There's lots to read about ARs. I'm still learning myself, and am not an expert by any means.

    Austin

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