AK Muzzle Brake Removal: HELP!

AK Muzzle Brake Removal: HELP!

This is a discussion on AK Muzzle Brake Removal: HELP! within the Defensive Rifles & Shotgun Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; I tried to remove the slanted brake in my WASR, I realized (after enough elbow grease & cussing) that the thing is pinned & probably ...

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Thread: AK Muzzle Brake Removal: HELP!

  1. #1
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    AK Muzzle Brake Removal: HELP!

    I tried to remove the slanted brake in my WASR, I realized (after enough elbow grease & cussing) that the thing is pinned & probably welded.
    Suggestions on how to remove the pin are very much welcomed.
    You have to make the shot when fire is smoking, people are screaming, dogs are barking, kids are crying and sirens are coming.
    Randy Cain.

    Ego will kill you. Leave it at home.
    Signed: Me!


  2. #2
    Senior Member Array Duisburg's Avatar
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    Well if it is a pin like this:





    All you need to do is get wooden ruler and depress the pin against the front side of the sight block and then twist the brake off. If the brake is a persistant little bugger then use needle nose pliers with a cleaning patch (to prevent scratches if you mind) and stick the nose inside the brake and clamp down so that the pliers revolve laterally with the brake on its threads. ;)

    hope this helps
    I am sworn to protect the Constitution of the U.S.A. from all threats both foreign and domestic.

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    This is the sucker.

    You have to make the shot when fire is smoking, people are screaming, dogs are barking, kids are crying and sirens are coming.
    Randy Cain.

    Ego will kill you. Leave it at home.
    Signed: Me!

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    I doubt it would be pinned out that far.... looks well past the threads. It could be stuck though. But that is probably not a pin in that far forward of an area of the brake. You do need to depress the spring pin far enough to let it clear though. As was described already. And your picture shows you do have one. Also IIRC they are left hand thread? I think so... this might fool ya.

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    Senior Member Array Duisburg's Avatar
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    hmm...same pin as I have but that sure does not look like a spotweld! it that spot is what you know for sure is holding you back: gauge the depth of the brake, then drill it out until just before you hit the barrel and finally depress the pin and remove.
    I am sworn to protect the Constitution of the U.S.A. from all threats both foreign and domestic.

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    Two things to watch for...

    most AKs have left handed threads. Meaning that instead of turning it to the left to loosen it, you turn it to the right.

    If it is pinned, make sure that it is not a tapered pin. One side will be bigger than the other. If you try to tap the pin the wrong way, you'll retire before you get it out.

    You cant imagine how many pins I've knocked out of guns for people that didnt realize they were tapered pins and were at wits end.

    If it is welded, you'll have to remove the weld. This can be done with a dremel tool and a bit of patience. REmove the weld then drill it...preferably in a drill press.

    Miggy...are you sure thats a pin and not a manufacturers mark? It sure doesent look like a pin in the picture to me. What good would a pin do there?
    I would rather stand against the cannons of the wicked than against the prayers of the righteous.


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  7. #7
    Senior Member Array Duisburg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HotGuns View Post
    are you sure thats a pin and not a manufacturers mark? It sure doesent look like a pin in the picture to me. What good would a pin do there?
    that wouldn't be a pin there where the arrow is pointed to, the pin is on the front side of the sight block. I think that what Miggy has an arrow pointing to could either be a marking, tack weld or spot weld.
    I am sworn to protect the Constitution of the U.S.A. from all threats both foreign and domestic.

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    That pin would be a spring detent pin for postitioning the slant brake. It should press down so that you can turn the brake on or off.
    I would rather stand against the cannons of the wicked than against the prayers of the righteous.


    AR. CHL Instr. 07/02 FFL
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  9. #9
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    I guess it is stuck as heck. I managed to turn it just enough for the plunger to stay down (so you guys were right, no pin) but I am afraid cutting will be required.
    You have to make the shot when fire is smoking, people are screaming, dogs are barking, kids are crying and sirens are coming.
    Randy Cain.

    Ego will kill you. Leave it at home.
    Signed: Me!

  10. #10
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    You did turn it the correct way right?

    I'll bet its locktighted.

    Take a propane torch and heat it up...no more than 400 degrees.

    That'll help. Just a few passes with the torch, it doesnt take long. If you dont have a torch then light a candle. Lock Tight is made to break the bond with heat.
    I would rather stand against the cannons of the wicked than against the prayers of the righteous.


    AR. CHL Instr. 07/02 FFL
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  11. #11
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    I had problems with several of my AKs and just sent them to TheFiringLine Gunsmithing in Oklahoma.

    And got them back in a little over a week. I've found AK home gunsmithing to be virtually impossible if you don't have the right tools. Everything is welded or pressed on and if you don't do it right, you'll just ruin the finish on the rifle.

  12. #12
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    Having the right tools make life a lot easier for sure.
    I would rather stand against the cannons of the wicked than against the prayers of the righteous.


    AR. CHL Instr. 07/02 FFL
    Like custom guns and stuff? Check this out...
    http://bobbailey1959.wordpress.com/

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    I will try the heating in the morning.... The slanted brake is pretty much toasted by now.

    I will report the consequences!
    You have to make the shot when fire is smoking, people are screaming, dogs are barking, kids are crying and sirens are coming.
    Randy Cain.

    Ego will kill you. Leave it at home.
    Signed: Me!

  14. #14
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    Heat did the trick!
    But I found out that I have right handed threads and the brake I bought is too big.

    I need an adapter
    You have to make the shot when fire is smoking, people are screaming, dogs are barking, kids are crying and sirens are coming.
    Randy Cain.

    Ego will kill you. Leave it at home.
    Signed: Me!

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    VIP Member Array Rob72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Miggy View Post
    Heat did the trick!
    But I found out that I have right handed threads and the brake I bought is too big.

    I need an adapter
    Are you sure? Really, REALLY sure?!? WASRs are built on Romanian demills or "re-mills," so threading should be LH mil-spec. 'Course with Century, who knows... If it is RH threading, a 1/2"x28 AR brake should be a perfect fit. Given the Romy barrels, it can only be 14mm or 1/2".


    Unless someone sold you a real home-build, and the barrel was a turned-down blank...

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