October 16th, 2008 07:38 AM
If you plan to build/buy in .223Rem/5.56 Nato, and it's your first AR, i recommend just buying one outright. However, if you want something in a different Caliber, i recommend buying it piece by piece.
It may be completely psychological, but i built my first AR in 5.56, and I've sold off the upper twice. I'm now on an AR chambered for .300 Whisper, and i'm still using the lower from the .223. I just trust it, granted, i did some modification to the trigger, which now gives me a crisp 1 1/2 lb pull.
I agree with most of the AR triggers having lousy pull and a gritty feeling, building your own minimizes that.
And definitely go with the Flat top, you aren't going to be using iron sights anyway, and you can do anything you want with that flat top.
The muzzle end of a .45 pretty much says, "Go Away" in every language.
Fast is fine, accuracy is final. Learn to be slow in a hurry.
"I never met a man that had been in a gunfight and wished that he had a smaller gun. Ever."
October 18th, 2008 07:28 PM
This is mostly a quality thing. The different lowers are all interchangeable, but some are milled more precisely and have better finishes.
Originally Posted by mikeprekopa
As someone else has already posted, lots of good info on AR15.com, including a review of some different lowers with pictures showing the differences in finish, etc.
October 18th, 2008 08:53 PM
I build AR15 rifles for a living so maybe I can help out here. I like the term "bare receiver" instead of "stripped receiver" as the latter implies a built receiver disassembled and sold instead of a virgin receiver.
Building your first bare lower will take about an hour your first time. Get the pivot pin detent installation tool from Brownells (pt no. 080-216-011 $14.95). Get a roll pin punch set and brass or plastic mallet. Grab some electrical tape to cover the receiver and protect it when tapping in the bolt release pin. Probably $30-35 worth of tools.
Best bet is to buy a Del Ton parts kit and a bare lower. The Del Ton will run $465 and a bare lower maybe $100 or so. Build the lower, slap on the pre-assembled upper and go on with life. Learn the upper, a bit more complicated, and swap parts as you need them. For the first build I don't recommend building the upper piece by piece unless you are good with hand tools. If you can detail strip and reassemble a 1911 without looking at instructions, you can probably handle a complete build where you have to assemble a complete upper and lower. For starters, the lower is pretty easy.
Go to ar15.com, go to the guides, and build a lower. Step by step instructions with pictures.
Mil spec is mil spec. There is no difference between 99% of the lowers out there, even the ones for $200. You are paying for the name. I've build excellent guns on cheap Del Ton lowers and high end Noveske and LMT lowers. Couldn't tell the difference between them for the most part. All three rifles shot 1/2 MOA. Some high end makers like LMT and Noveske leave forging flash on their lowers while the cheaper ones don't have any flash.
Lowers I've used building customer rifles:
October 18th, 2008 10:12 PM
I considered building my own, but after pricing things out, I went with a complete rifle from CMMG. Just about the same money & has a lifetime guarantee. Perhaps next time for fun and challenge, I'll try building one.
October 18th, 2008 11:04 PM
thanks a lot for all the tips. being in between jobs, i dont think i will be starting this for a few more weeks :( hopefully i will start work this coming week, and have a lower within a few months.
in the mean time, i pray that a particular presidential candidate that had a tendency to be anti gun, is more concerned with the current state of the economy then banning weapons, that way i will have some time to at least buy the parts. :-P
"Dead is dead"
"Yea, till we show up with jumper cables and drugs to debate it"
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