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Nice! I like that Draco!
This is a discussion on The "official" AK thread within the Defensive Rifles & Shotgun Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; Nice! I like that Draco!...
Nice! I like that Draco!
"I don't know who invented Yoga and I don't know who invented pants. But I do know that I'd like to shake the hand of the man who put those two ideas together."
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Jon, is that a 5.56 Draco?
VERY nice paint jobs on all of those, by the way.
"Stand your ground, don't fire unless fired upon, but if they mean to have a war, let it begin here!" - John Parker April 19th, 1775 Lexington, MA
Μολών λαβέ!
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Thanks guys. Yes sir, that is a 5.56.
Proven combat techniques may not be flashy and may require a bit more physical effort on the part of the shooter. Further, they may not win competition matches, but they will help ensure your survival in a shooting or gunfight on the street. ~Paul Howe
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Man I love that camo, I would guess its a subdued Woodland pattern?Originally Posted by jonconsiglio
I like the Krylon/Aervoe painting, but only because I like the worn off look it gets after some use. I definitely understand it's not for everyone. Added some accents a few minutes ago.
So far I've done two 22 rifles and this. The SCARs, ARs and Barretts are next.
I do have a question, Zero wrote:
Does gunzilla remove krylon paint? I am ordering a saiga AK next week and I plan on eventually doing a camo paint job on it, but I love gunzilla and plan on using it to clean/lube the AK. Will I have problems with gunzilla removing paint?I have thought about the spray can approach. Don't want to go down that road. Have read many people do it and are OK with surface etc. I spray Gunzilla in receiver and elsewhere when cleaning (especially after corrosive ammo). Had spray paint on the bottom of one Saiga before...took it right off.
Picked up a cheap vertical feed touch up gun recently for my clay works. That's what got me thinking of following through on a color change finally.
Do appreciate the input. You have a lot of very nice firearms.
On a side note, concerning gunzilla, I was using a cheap dollar store toothbrush as one of my tools to clean my glock while using gunzilla. I noticed the last time I cleaned my gun that the toothbrush was sticky. It appears that the handle was being dissolved. I am not 100 percent sure it was gunzilla that did it. There are other cleaning supplies in my cleaning bag, so maybe something else got on the toothbrush. In any event I will try using a different type of toothbrush from now on.
I really didn't want to even mention this because I really do think gunzilla is a great product, just be sure to not leave cheap plastic that has gunzilla on it near a gun or other piece of gear.
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Thanks man. I used Aervoe, which is quite a bit better than Krylon and matches the color specs. Now, it will wear off a good bit quicker than Duracoat or Cerakote, but to me, it looks a little better since it's extremely flat, almost zero IR signature (if that matters to anyone) and is very, very thin compared to Duracoat jobs I've seen.
Gunzilla shouldn't cause any issues. It will wear in areas you handle and areas that get saturated with oil and cleaned often, but I personally like the look of a worn painted gun as it looks all business to me. Worst case, you wipe it down and scrub it with Acetone and repaint it, or just paint over it once it wears enough.
I used Aervoe sand as the base, some OD green, field drab, and Krylon Brown then dusted it over with the OD green.
Here's a couple good threads on painting, mainly by guys that paint them for work related reasons. It's Lightfighter, forum. I'm not sure if it's a closed forum or not, I don't remember. By all accounts, Aervoe is far superior to Krylon. It's available from DSG Arms and camopaint.com, I believe.
EDIT - It appears to be a close forum by the link
Login To: Lightfighter Tactical Forum
Login To: Lightfighter Tactical Forum
EDIT 2 - Here's how a Suppressor with a quick coat of Krylon wears after 3 days of being deep in the thick wooded areas using the suppressor to push stuff out of the way. Had this been Aervoe, it likely would not be AS worn.
Proven combat techniques may not be flashy and may require a bit more physical effort on the part of the shooter. Further, they may not win competition matches, but they will help ensure your survival in a shooting or gunfight on the street. ~Paul Howe
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TedBeau...I have had gunzilla eat at certain plastics (cheap spray bottle, tooth brush) never any gun parts. The cheap paint on my rifle came off quick due to excessive application and leaving it on too long.
I will never quit using gunzilla (if I can help it). I have been amazed since the first time I used it. It does its job very well, and if used properly will not damage many paints.
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Personally, I use SLIP EWL and never had any problems. For cleaning, I use SLIP if I absolutely have to. Otherwise, I just wipe down the important parts with an oily rag. I run my ARs a few times a week and they get filthy, but I still hardly ever use cleaner on the rifle itself, just the BCG and internal if necessary.
I can see how some people's ways of cleaning can strip paint though, I just clean it enough to keep it from having any failures and also keep it wet.
Proven combat techniques may not be flashy and may require a bit more physical effort on the part of the shooter. Further, they may not win competition matches, but they will help ensure your survival in a shooting or gunfight on the street. ~Paul Howe
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I'm with you on the gunzilla, Zero. It saved me from having to replace my model 94 winchester deer rifle. The gun shop couldn't figure out why it was locking up when trying to go to half cocked. I cleaned it with gunzilla for the first time after they had it apart and checked it out and the problem went away. It's been flawless for two years now.
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I don't remember if I posted a pic of my Polish 1960 but here it is!
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Some of my AK toys. I plan to SBR one of those Draco's.
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Was able to spend some time upgrading a couple of the Saiga's.
Took factory hand guard off my first conversion and did a color change with Hogue furniture. Much better sling set up on it now too.
Been collecting parts throughout the year for the plum 5.45. Nice to see it all together. It will be a fun shooter.
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^^^^ Just ordered one of those recoil pads this morning.
It seems the main reason I always resort back to my AR is ergonomics and handling. I didn't get the pad because the recoil is too harsh, but the AK stock is so thin, it digs into my shoulder. The AR stocks are always wider and taller, spreading out the pressure. This pad will make it wider and more comfortable. Unfortunately, it will add length of pull. And as much as I'd like to get the Ultimak lower rail to extend my rail space, I can't do it. I'm so used to my 12" rail on my AR (I grip out at the very end of the hand guard) that the AK hand guard just seems sooo short. I'd like to be able to extend my grip out further.....but the wood just looks better....
pic thread
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Nice looking practical AK RKM. How you like the Krebs peep?
Biggest perk of the sissy pad is what you're talking about (not recoil). I am able to position the stock higher on my shoulder because the bottom of the pad protrudes. It makes a big difference in cheek weld and overall comfort. The increased LOP is around an inch.
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Here's my Hungarian AMD-65 with my recent additions of a quad rail fore-end and reflex sight. Very handy little carbine. The lack of a cheek weld is mitigated somewhat by the addition of the reflex sight.
Cheers!
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