Reduced recoil spring - Walther PPK/S

Reduced recoil spring - Walther PPK/S

This is a discussion on Reduced recoil spring - Walther PPK/S within the Firearm Cleaning & Maintenance forums, part of the General Firearm Discussion category; Got an Interarms Walther PPK/S from my grandfather. It was having problems stovepiping and FTE sometimes. Took it to a gunsmith. $280 later, FTE fixed ...

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  1. #1
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    Reduced recoil spring - Walther PPK/S

    Got an Interarms Walther PPK/S from my grandfather. It was having problems stovepiping and FTE sometimes. Took it to a gunsmith. $280 later, FTE fixed but still stovepiping.

    Not willing to put out more $$$, I looked at it myself and noticed that, when it stovepiped, if I pulled the slide back just a little and released it, everything worked. So I orded a Wolf 17 lb recoil spring ($7.50) and it now appears to be working flawlessly. Awesome.

    My question is, how can I tell if this reduced load spring is causing the slide to go to far back? And is it damaging the gun?

    Thanks.
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  2. #2
    VIP Member Array glockman10mm's Avatar
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    I think if you pay attention to the slide stops on the frame, which is the point where the slide is stopped by the frame during it's rearward motion, if the spring is too light, you will see signs of battering, which will be shiney, blunting appearences to tha part ofthe frame. However, I don't think you have anything to worry about.

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    Senior Member Array druryj's Avatar
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    Naw, you're probably just fine. My PPK's runs MUCH better with a 17 lb Wolff spring. I typically shoot Remington or Fiocchi 95 gr FMJ in it and it's flawless with the 17 lb; some fte/stovepiping with the stock 20 lb spring though.

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    Wow, a 20 lb spring for a PPK? That sounds pretty stiff for that caliber. I can see where it would cause problems.
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    VIP Member Array automatic slim's Avatar
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    How many different brands of ammo did you try. I had a Kimber pro carry in .38 Super that continously FTE and stovepiped when I used PMC ammo. Once I switched to another brand it worked fine. You have to consider that the engineers that designed the gun used a 20 lb. spring for a reason. A 17 lb. spring may be OK for reduced loads, but with factory ammo I'd stick with the original parts. BTW, I have a PPK/S and it functions fine with all factory ammo using the factory 20 lb. spring.
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    automatic slim
    "You have to consider that the engineers that designed the gun used a 20 lb. spring for a reason."

    That is what you would think but, the best they can ever do at the factory is to try & pick an average recoil spring weight tailored to the most common ammunition that most people will probably shoot in any firearm. They don't always get it right.

    The Walther PPK/S is overbuilt for the .380.
    It's built like a tank.
    You are not going to damage it shooting it with a reduced power recoil spring.
    The Walther factory 20# is (in my opinion) overly heavy as furnished by Walther anyway.

    I have a Wolff Reduced Power 16# in the Wifes PPK/S & I & she is shooting/carrying Speer JHP.

    Yes, factory standard is 20# - compare that to the poopy little recoil spring in the chintzy little KelTec P3AT. (.380) with its little Aluminum frame rails.

  7. #7
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    S&W Walther PPK/S

    I had the same problem with my US-made PPK/S, regardless of ammo. The Wolff 14 or 15 pound spring cured the FTF, FTE problem. This was not needed for my German PPK and PP. The folks at Wolff said that this was a common fix. I also polished the barrel exterior. It is now very reliable.

    It also helped to use a gorilla grip, not a target grip.

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