Locking lug peening SA1911

This is a discussion on Locking lug peening SA1911 within the Firearm Cleaning & Maintenance forums, part of the General Firearm Discussion category; HI, I'm not sure if this is the place to ask about issues such as the one with my Springfield 1911A1 Loaded. Did a search ...

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Thread: Locking lug peening SA1911

  1. #1
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    Locking lug peening SA1911

    HI, I'm not sure if this is the place to ask about issues such as the one with my Springfield 1911A1 Loaded. Did a search and couldn't find this particular problem listed anyplace but then, not many people actually state the subject of their post in the title. (that's a peeve best addressed elsewhere I guess )

    Please excuse my use of the wrong terminology in describing part, I'm new to 1911's and working on firearms but I'm trying.

    My problem is after putting 1000 rds through a brand new SA Loaded, as I was cleaning it and changing out the FLG that was original from Springfield for a Wilson Combat "bullet proof" stainless standard GI guide rod/plug/spring kit.

    As I was doing so, I noticed the barrel link not rotating freely, only swinging maybe 90 degrees until meeting resistance. Looking further I saw peening on the front (nearest the muzzle) of the locking lug legs on the underside of the barrel. Two noticable spots on each leg directly opposite each other. These caused burrs to impinge into the barrel link slot, thus impeding the forward/rearward swivel motion of the link.

    After using an ignition point file to remove the burrs from the inside front edge of the legs and flushing the swivel pin area with oil, it is now operating smoothly and full-range again. After reassembly I find that the slide action is working smoother now than it ever has.

    My question is, what would have caused this in the first place? I haven't shot it again since this occurred because this all took place this morning but I don't want to damage anything else peripherally if this is an indication of an underlying problem.

    And actually, there are NOT 1000 rounds through this barrel, now that I think of it as it's already been sent to SA for accuracy issues and they replaced the barrel. So the new barrel has probably less than 500 rds through it.

    Any ideas from the 1911 guru's? Would a photo help? (my photography skills suck)
    Ruger MkII, Kel Tek P3AT, Hi Point JH45, SA XDm9, SA XD9sc, SA 1911 MilSpec Loaded, SA 1911 MilSpec Loaded Micro
    Life is fragile and is what we make it. Keep dear to your heart that of your loved ones and fellow man and by God don't try to take it from me or my loved one's.

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  3. #2
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    Your barrel lugs were bearing on your slide release/stop pin. That was happening during shooting when your firearm goes into battery.
    My best guess is that it has probably stopped doing that already or you would likely have already sheared off your lower barrel lugs - or bent or broke your slide stop pin or suffered a broken or deformed barrel link after having shot 500 rounds.

    Now that you've removed the burrs you can try and shoot it some more and see if the lug peening has now stopped.

    I have seen barrel lugs that have peened slightly initially and then the issue stopped as the barrel became shot in.

    I have also seen "take off" surplus used 1911 military barrels that have exhibited that same peening.

    As a test you can install the barrel with its bushing into the slide minus the recoil spring, spring guide and plug....then get everything lined up and insert only the slide stop pin through the hole in the frame & into barrel link but just let the remainder of the slide stop hang down in front of the trigger guard.

    Don't snap the slide stop into the plunger/tube just let it hang.

    Now....when you manually move the slide forward into full battery...the barrel (of course) will swing/pivot up on the barrel link and the top barrel lugs will move up and engage into the slide locking lugs - and when you manually put approximate recoil spring pressure on the rear of the slide - the slide stop should swing easily or at least freely.

    While putting pressure on the rear of the slide you should actually even be able to fairly easily push the slide stop pin out from the flip side of the frame.

    That will tell you if your barrel lugs are still bearing on your slide stop pin.

    BTW: It's Good that you dumped the FLGR.

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    Member Array resqr9142's Avatar
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    OKShooter, thank you very much for the information and detailed procedure. I love this place! But not so much the results found when performing this test.

    First off I left the action intact and just popped loose the slide stop and swivelled it down. With recoil spring pressure on it the stop will not move easily.

    I then removed the recoil spring assembly and tried with just thumb pressure on back of slide and the slide stop pin in place and still same result. The amount of effort it takes to move the slide stop is directly proportionate to how much thumb pressure I exert on the back of the slide.

    Damn! Guess this means a trip back to Springfield?
    Ruger MkII, Kel Tek P3AT, Hi Point JH45, SA XDm9, SA XD9sc, SA 1911 MilSpec Loaded, SA 1911 MilSpec Loaded Micro
    Life is fragile and is what we make it. Keep dear to your heart that of your loved ones and fellow man and by God don't try to take it from me or my loved one's.

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    Here's a photo of the peening. Looks like the end of the guide rod is what slammed into the lower lugs? I don't see any peeing on the end of the FLGR nor the GR flange.

    What would be the fix for this? Is the guide rod too long? The barrel legs slanted too far towards the muzzle?

    I'm getting a glimmer of just how intricate the operational tolerances of the 1911 are, just enough to really get me into trouble if I try to work it out myself.
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    Ruger MkII, Kel Tek P3AT, Hi Point JH45, SA XDm9, SA XD9sc, SA 1911 MilSpec Loaded, SA 1911 MilSpec Loaded Micro
    Life is fragile and is what we make it. Keep dear to your heart that of your loved ones and fellow man and by God don't try to take it from me or my loved one's.

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    "now that I think of it as it's already been sent to SA for accuracy issues and they replaced the barrel." <~~~ Geesh!

    If you want save it a trip back to Springfield then any local gunsmith that routinely works on 1911s can easily correct the issue on the existing barrel.

    Or here is something else you could do.
    You could buy a Storm Lake "drop in" barrel from Brownell's (since Storm Lake "drop in" barrels are the "drop in" barrels most likely to actually just drop in without any gunsmithing) and try one of those in your pistol.
    They are excellent, accurate, high quality barrels and the huge plus of ordering it from Brownell's is that you can install it - do that above test - and then just return it for full credit if it's not working out for you.
    Brownell's has a Satisfaction Guarantee (FOR ANY REASON) & yes, even if you are 100% honest with them & you tell them that you tried to drop in the drop in barrel the barrel just didn't fit.
    They will gladly refund you with a smile.
    http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=1...FIT_BARREL_KIT


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    Thanks a lot OK. That answers my question. I'll contact SA and send it in. Can't beat the cost. Why should I spend any more money on it than they've already gotten from me? They'll make it right I'm sure. So far they've been great to work with. Just thought when I bought the darn thing that it would be "right". Is this too much to expect from an almost 800 dollar pistol?
    Ruger MkII, Kel Tek P3AT, Hi Point JH45, SA XDm9, SA XD9sc, SA 1911 MilSpec Loaded, SA 1911 MilSpec Loaded Micro
    Life is fragile and is what we make it. Keep dear to your heart that of your loved ones and fellow man and by God don't try to take it from me or my loved one's.

  8. #7
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    "Is this too much to expect from an almost 800 dollar pistol?"

    Obviously it is but, (overall) it's a great pistol and once it's running 100% it should run trouble free for a long time.
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