Clean by Soaking?

Clean by Soaking?

This is a discussion on Clean by Soaking? within the Firearm Cleaning & Maintenance forums, part of the General Firearm Discussion category; Is it ok to soak a gun in a solvent or something like rubbing alchohol? I clean all my pistols on a regular basis but ...

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Thread: Clean by Soaking?

  1. #1
    Ex Member Array rammerjammer's Avatar
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    Question Clean by Soaking?

    Is it ok to soak a gun in a solvent or something like rubbing alchohol? I clean all my pistols on a regular basis but my Ruger Mk III is the hardest to clean completely. After having shot many many rounds through it sometimes it stops locking back on the last round. This could be a mag issue but regardless of that, is it ok to soak a pistol to break up some of the gunk that I can't reach?

    Is it ok to soak a polymer frame? or steel? or aluminum?

    If I do soak it, what fluid should I soak it in?

    My first instinct is that this is a bad idea, but I thought I'd get some advice from some of the more experienced members here on the forum.

    Thanks for any responses.

  2. #2
    Member Array TapRackBang's Avatar
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    I would resist the urge to soak a firearm in anything long term, especially a Polymer (plastic) frame. Some folks do a ultasonic cleaning..but I wouldn't call that soaking.
    "Arms in the hands of individual citizens may be used at individual discretion..in private self defense." John Adams

  3. #3
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    You can soak your all steel firearms. Alcohol would not be the correct cleaning liquid/solvent to use though.

    You can make up a mixture of Mineral Spirits AKA Pure Paint Thinner/Petroleum Distillate and add a few large bottles of Hoppes #9 into that.

    That's a great overnight soak for all steel firearms that you can use over and over again.

    I keep it in a large Stainless Steel kitchen type flour cannister with a lid.

    I got that at a flea market for a few bucks.

    If you want to soak Polymer Framed guns then you'll need to buy Universal Dunk It.

    It's pretty expensive stuff though. It's a soak for all firearms except Electroless Nickel which it will discolor.

    HERE IS THE LINK - CLICK HERE

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  5. #4
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    You might consider using an ultrasonic cleaner on your tough to clean guns.

    Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

  6. #5
    Senior Member Array Stirling XD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by marcclarke View Post
    You might consider using an ultrasonic cleaner on your tough to clean guns.
    I would be careful when using an ultrasonic cleaner. More importantly, I would be careful of what solution you use in it. I dropped the slide of my Browning Hi Power in my ultrasonic. Not only did it strip years of grit and grime, but it stripped the bluing as well. I was using the solution meant for cleaning brass. There may be better solutions for cleaning blue steel and I'm sure the solution was the problem as opposed to the ultrasonic cleaner.

    By the way, Fogle's Gun Smithing did an excellent job of re-bluing my Hi Power making it look better than new.
    Has anyone tried turning the country off and then back on again?

  7. #6
    Member Array arte710's Avatar
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    I've used kerosene (lamp oil) to clean my Mk II in the past. Just leave it soaking (broken down to the degree you're comfortable with) overnight and then scrub a little and done.

  8. #7
    VIP Member Array ghost tracker's Avatar
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    I understand your resistance to a full strip & clean on your Mk III, yet it sounds like it NEEDS one. The "soak & scrub" isn't (IMHO) likely gonna' get to where you MOST need to get. If your frustration of reassembly is WORTH the cost of the kit, check out the "Majestic Arms" Speed Strip for the Ruger MK pistol. It makes it a piece-of-cake.
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  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by arte710 View Post
    I've used kerosene (lamp oil) to clean my Mk II in the past. Just leave it soaking (broken down to the degree you're comfortable with) overnight and then scrub a little and done.
    Quote Originally Posted by bullshark View Post
    C.E. , "Ed" Harris recipe for bore cleaner:

    Equal parts:
    • Dexron II ATF (or IIe or III)
    • K1 kerosene (for space heaters)
    • Aliphatic (odorless)mineral spirits or Stoddards solvent or Varsol
    • Acetone
    Supposedly, the acetone can be left out, if your not cleaning shotguns or other weapons that have plastic residues, but the cleaner won't be as fast acting.
    Supposedly the Dexron + kerosene mix (50/50) is highly effective "gun oil"
    Supposedly one of the most effective penetrating oils available (beat all the commercial preparations)...
    Found the above old post from bullshark posted on May 3rd, 2012 on this forum, found it through Google. I've been using ED's Red since about 2009 -10. First heard of it from a guy with the username of Reginald Carstairs and/or RC on a Bersa forum, then was given my first supply by a retired preacher I met at the Church we attended in Vegas. Other than grip panels, I only have Steel over alloy or all steel. I use Ed's Red (1 part each of Kerosene, Acetone, Mineral Spirits and Dexron II ATF) for all pistol and my one rifle cleaning.
    5lima30ret likes this.
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  10. #9
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    Ghost tracker said it all. Disassemble and do it right!
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  11. #10
    VIP Member Array 5lima30ret's Avatar
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    Since I switched about 10 years ago to a 50/50 homebrew mix of Mobil 1 & Marvel Mystery Oil I have never had to do any soaking in solvent! One of my AR's has gone through more than 450 rds of dirty steel cased Tula with no lube and it required no scraping or soaking. I also use it on my handguns with equally good results. YMMV. Good luck!
    Retired Police Lieutenant, Former MH-53 Pave Low Gunner, Retired USAF Reserve, Glock Armorer, AL Retired LEO Pistol Permit, NRA Certified Pistol Instructor, LEOSA Qualified
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  12. #11
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    Older dinosaur type thread but, still useful information.
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