1911 Gunsmithing question - Need some Advice

1911 Gunsmithing question - Need some Advice

This is a discussion on 1911 Gunsmithing question - Need some Advice within the Firearm Cleaning & Maintenance forums, part of the General Firearm Discussion category; Hi all, I have a Taurus 1911 that I love to shoot, but I have noticed that recently I seem to be having problems possibly ...

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Thread: 1911 Gunsmithing question - Need some Advice

  1. #1
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    1911 Gunsmithing question - Need some Advice

    Hi all,

    I have a Taurus 1911 that I love to shoot, but I have noticed that recently I seem to be having problems possibly related to the beavertail safety. Occassionally I will try to pull the trigger, and nothing will happen. If I adjust my grip to press the beavertail in hard sometimes it will fire, but not always. If I pull the slide back and chamber a new round, that always seems to fix the issue, but it may only last for a mag or two before it starts up again. I clean the gun regularly, and it still has this malfunction even after I have cleaned and lubricated the weapon. Has this happened to anyone else with a 1911 out there? Is this something that a gunsmith should look at and could possibly fix? Thanks in advance for the advice!
    "All that is necessary for evil to triumph is for good men to do nothing."
    - Edmund Burke


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    VIP Member Array glockman10mm's Avatar
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    I would seek a pros help. But what I would really do, and not trying to be a wise guy, but get rid of it.
    Ignorance is a long way from stupid, but left unchecked, can get there real fast.

  3. #3
    JD
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    This is going to sound a little silly, but when you say "I pull the trigger and nothing happens" what exactly do you mean? Does the hammer fall but the gun not fire? Racking the slide does nothing to effect the grip safety, all the grip safety does (with the exception of those pistols with a Swartz style firing pin block, which the PT1911 is not) is block the trigger from moving. If rides on the shaft of the thumb safety, when pressed in, the trigger block is lifted in such a manner that the trigger can be pulled fully to the rear. When pressure is released from the grip safety, one arm of the sear spring moves it back into position blocking the trigger.


    it's possible, that there is some poor fit of the grip safety where it blocks the hammer and s super firm grip is needed to allow the trigger to move and you just happen to achieve that grip while cycling the slide....


    If by "I pull the trigger and nothing happens" you mean that the hammer falls but there's no ignition, that's a totally separate issue.


    Not knowing exactly what the issue is, I think you probably have a poorly fit grip safety or possibly the innards of the gun are not aligning properly.

    Did these problems start all of a sudden? Been there since day one? Started happening after a full dissassembly?

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    Sorry for not being more specific. The trigger is locked and the hammer does not fall. It is as if you are trying to pull the trigger without engaging the beavertail safety. It has not done this since day one, it just started a few months ago. The frustrating thing is that it doesn't do it consistently. If I could predict when it would happen (i.e. it always happens on round five with this particular mag, etc) I wouldn't be as bothered by it, but it seems to happen without any pattern that I have identified.

    Thanks!
    "All that is necessary for evil to triumph is for good men to do nothing."
    - Edmund Burke

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    OD*
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    Quote Originally Posted by docabe View Post
    It has not done this since day one....
    Check the over-travel screw on your trigger, many times they will "tighten" themselves and bind the trigger. The best way to check it is to just remove it completely, if the binding stops, you've found the problem.
    "The pistol, learn it well, carry it always ..." ~ Jeff Cooper

    "Terrorists: They hated you yesterday, they hate you today, and they will hate you tomorrow. End the cycle of hatred, donít give them a tomorrow."

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    sgb
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    Quote Originally Posted by glockman10mm View Post
    I would seek a pros help. But what I would really do, and not trying to be a wise guy, but get rid of it.

    I'm with glockman10mm 110%
    "There is a secret pride in every human heart that revolts at tyranny. You may order and drive an individual, but you cannot make him respect you." William Hazlitt (1778 - 1830)

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    Senior Member Array RKflorida's Avatar
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    The only trouble with "Getting Rid of It" is that the person who receives "It" will be on the forum looking for a fix. If we tell him the same thing, this will be like playing musical guns and this one lands on a forum member when the bullets stop. Please tell me we don't all have to take a turn owning it.

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    VIP Member Array ghost tracker's Avatar
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    There are gun smiths and then there are 1911 smiths. They are often NOT the same people. Because all (okay, most) 1911 variants have sooo much in common that if you sent it to a good 1911 smith he'll know what to look for before he even takes it apart. While I am a fan of the robust nature of the 1911, I also realize that (unlike a GLOCK) small tweaks make a BIG difference. If you don't know a good 1911 smith in your area, I know two in Kentucky that'll make it run like a Rolex. PM me.
    There are only TWO kinds of people in this world; those who describe the world as filled with two kinds of people...and those who don't.

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    New Member Array docabe's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice all. I took it in today and got the grip safety adjusted, and now it works just fine! And yes, if I had more cash, I would invest in a higher quality 1911, but right now I gotta go with what I've got.
    Rock and Glock and 1911srule like this.
    "All that is necessary for evil to triumph is for good men to do nothing."
    - Edmund Burke

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    Senior Member Array jem102's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OD* View Post
    Check the over-travel screw on your trigger, many times they will "tighten" themselves and bind the trigger. The best way to check it is to just remove it completely, if the binding stops, you've found the problem.
    OD has the correct answer. I have seen several PT1911's do this. WITH THE PISTOL CLEARED AND KNOWN EMPTY AND THE MAGAZINE OUT, back the trigger screw out quite a ways, cock the pistol, point in a safe direction, grasp the hammer to keep it back,while holding the trigger all the way back, ease the hammer down, as you do so you should NOT feel any bump or catch. If you do back the screw out further. You can now turn the screw in little by little until you feel it start to catch, from that point back it out 1/2 turn and "locTite" it. Or as "OD" stated remove it completely.

    "IMO" you will not solve this problem in a PT1911 long term without replacing the fire control group with a good after market product (Brown, Wison ect.). "IMO" unless you want to do this as a learning eperience a PT 1911 is not worth the investment of the parts. This however, is just MO.
    Who is John Galt?

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    In the future buy a Kimber, Colt, maybe a Springfield Armory and you won't have these issues. I'd give it to a good gunsmith for a tune up...
    RIP Jeff Cooper

  12. #12
    JD
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    Quote Originally Posted by docabe View Post
    Thanks for the advice all. I took it in today and got the grip safety adjusted, and now it works just fine! And yes, if I had more cash, I would invest in a higher quality 1911, but right now I gotta go with what I've got.

    Good deal, as the issue is resolved..


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