Your gun will come with a manual that has "Cleaning Tips" Do not over lubricate,oil will attract dirt,I use Gunzilla as a cleaner/lubricant spray inside barrel and slide and frame then on slide and frame use a brass brush to scrub all the nooks and crannys.Bore brush ran thru barrel about 10 times followed by cleaning patches,wipe everything down with a clean rag.I then use a little synthetic grease on the slide rails and reassemble
I agree completely, that's why I was VERY confused by those YouTube videos.......
Originally Posted by txron
Originally Posted by dukalmighty
I actually went on Ruger's website, and downloaded the official manual.
For the first time in my life, I actually read an owners manual cover to cover :)
It actually has a section on how to clean step by step.
while I don't use water as a cleaning agent, it's certainly nothing to be afraid of. when it gets wet, just dry it off. no big deal. a lot of people rinse guns that shoot potentially corrosive ammo with straight water (or windex which is mostly water) to neutralize the corrosive properties until they get a chance to clean it properly. hit it with WD40 to displace the water and then gun scrubber or brake cleaner to get rid of the WD40 before a standard cleaning. not ideal in my opinion but I guess a workable temporary solution.
Yup, those are the jags and the handgun cleaning kit. The second kit from Walmart is a great example of what not to buy. I've used one; the rods are cheap and flimsy, the brushes are too big and the bristles will fall apart in no time. The rest of the stuff is consumables.
Otis does make a good kit (I've got one), and convenient to carry, but less convenient to use. A good rod is always a good thing to have around if anything gets stuck in the bore. Also, a rod is much more convenient as you don't have to fiddle with the gun and cleaning apparatus as much - just align the patch on the jag, push it through, let the patch fall off after passing through the muzzle, and pull it back, repeat as necessary. With a cable you have to attach each patch in a certain way (pretty neat what they came up with) which can do as good a job as a jag (but watch this video before purchase), feed the cable from one end, flip rifle around (skip for pistol), attach handle, pull through, remove handle, remove patch, repeat. You are also married to Otis patches. Here's a link to all their use videos.
As with all kits, once you run out of solvent/oil, you won't find an economical choice to refill your kit so you wind up with empty space in the kit and more stuff to carry anyway.
I have been cleaning weapons since 1953 which was a single shot 22lr and back then the selection for cleaning was not even close to what they have now. Just recently a friend turned me onto FrogLube CLP and after moving to a wetter area I found this was the stuff for me. It did what it said and there was no bad smell and it is safe as I have a dog that checks everything but the proof would be after firing and storage and I have to say this is the one I'll stick with, the action is smoother and after 250 rds no buildup but again thats why there are so many to pick from but this area gets dry and dusty to wet and damp and not that far from salt water so I got it covered.
As funny as this sounds, I have often cleaned M-2, M-60, M-16, 92-FP, M-1911, M-24G, GAU and other assorted goodied with a water hose (the start of the process to get all the mud and nasty stuff off).
The end of the process (and lots of good advice from the above posters) is really where it matters. Make sure you protect the metal parts with the correct lubricant (to include all the little springy things hidden inside). Remember, as like water, there are many options on the market for 'solvents/surfactants' to break away the dirt/residue.... But at the end of the process, make sure that the only thing being absorbed into the metal (it is porous and absorbs) is the correct lubricant/protectant for the weapon. Side note, don't use overly abrasive brushes on your finish or the chamber, bolt .... whatever.... (milled to spec parts).
Your weapon is a 'lady'. Treat it right and it will treat you right. (apologies to the other Ladies on this thread - no sexism meant by the statement).
I bought Gun Slick cleaning kit for my 9mm. Came with everything I needed - Solvent, oil, brass brush, jag, patches. I bought extra patches and use q-tips for tight areas.
My cleaning process is realitively quick...First...I always clean my gun on the same day that is was fired...I never let it sit dirty...
I field strip...run a brush with some solvent or oil through the barrel...run a lightly oiled patch through, followed by a dry patch...
For the rest of the parts, I wipe down with a slightly oiled rag...then re-wipe with a dry rag...lube any "shiny" parts with an oiled q-tip...reassemble...rack the slide a few times and dry fire once or twice and I am done...
I would be interested in hearing opinions on using a bore snake...I have a buddy who swears by them...
I went out and got myself one of the Harbor Freight models for like $70.
Called both Glock and Springfield about using Simple Green and both company said that any cleaner that doesn't contain chlorine it would be fine. Those that are worried about aluminum contact, they also make a cleaner specific for that type of metal.
That said, using the U/S and a warm solution of SG made very quick work of cleaning everything after a day at the range.
I had a post showing the results but I they took my pictures down (image hoster not the other forum). If anybody would like to see them, just PM me and I'll email them to you.
I forgot and post then link here and it appears the pictures are working fine...go figure......again enjoy:
I use simple green on all my guns after detail stripping them. I use hot water for clean up, dry them out and lube according to manufacturers requirements, which is small amounts of grease not oil. This routine occurs after 3-4K rounds in the Glocks and after 2K rounds in the 1911's. Then after cleaning and re-assembly it is back to the range to insure they will go BANG. I carry and shoot dirty guns all the time. Never had issues. Shooting clean firing ammo also helps too.
I like this method as well although, I use Eezxo. Ballistrol leaves a very thin residue of oil even after wiping down. Tends to 'hold ' fingerprints. Eezox dries 'dry'. Small difference. Just me.
Originally Posted by krisspy