Am I cleaning my XDm correctly?

Am I cleaning my XDm correctly?

This is a discussion on Am I cleaning my XDm correctly? within the Firearm Cleaning & Maintenance forums, part of the General Firearm Discussion category; Hey guys I'm new to the forums, i just signed up a couple hours ago, and look forward to seeing how much knowledge i can ...

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Thread: Am I cleaning my XDm correctly?

  1. #1
    Member Array TheXDmGuy's Avatar
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    Am I cleaning my XDm correctly?

    Hey guys I'm new to the forums, i just signed up a couple hours ago, and look forward to seeing how much knowledge i can gain from sticking around.

    I just turned 21 a couple weeks ago and proceeded to purchase my first handgun, a Springfield XDm 9mm Compact, a few days afterwards. So needless to say, I'm a newb. I'm not totally oblivious but I do have a lot to learn.

    Now to my question. I guess I'm not asking whether or not I'm cleaning it correctly as much as I just want everyone's opinion on my cleaning process, plus any tips, warnings, etc.

    The materials I use are: Hoppe's #9, Hoppe's Elite Gun Cleaner, Rod and bore brush, patches, toothbrush, and Hoppe's lube (orange bottle).

    As you can probably guess, I use the Hoppe's #9 on the inside of the bore. But first I spray the outside and inside of the barrel with The Hoppe's Elite and let it soak while I'm working on the rest of the gun. I spray everything else to be cleaned with the Hoppe's Elite Gun Cleaner and scrub with toothbrush/wipe with patches.

    Then I go back to the bore and use my rod and brass bore brush (dipped in #9) with a couple strokes (usually 4-5). Then i put some Hoppe's #9 on a patch and run it through. After that I continue to put new patches on a rod and run it through the bore until the one comes out clean.

    Finally, I use the Hoppe's lube on the guide rails, feed ramp, and anything else i see that is metal EXCEPT the whole trigger assembly because I've heard mixed feelings towards getting stuff in/on the trigger assembly.

    This is pretty much my process and I'd love to hear everyone's feedback on it. Am I doing anything wrong? Are there certain things I should beware/look out for? How are the products i'm using? Is there a better method I can use with the products I already have?

    And one last thing, I've really been hearing a lot of good things about CLP and am really wanting to incorporate it into my cleaning process but don't know what it should substitute or really how it should be used. So feedback on that would be appreciated too.

    Sorry for the length, I just wanted to make sure I explained everything correctly.

    Thanks in advance guys.


  2. #2
    Member Array Bozz10mm's Avatar
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    Sounds like you are doing it about right. I would be careful lubing the feed ramp tho. You need to wipe any excess lube off the feed ramp with a rag so that it is mostly dry.

  3. #3
    Member Array TheXDmGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bozz10mm View Post
    Sounds like you are doing it about right. I would be careful lubing the feed ramp tho. You need to wipe any excess lube off the feed ramp with a rag so that it is mostly dry.
    What is the problem with lubing the feed ramp?

  4. #4
    Distinguished Member Array CIBMike's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheXDmGuy View Post
    What is the problem with lubing the feed ramp?
    It can cause feeding issues.
    The easy way is always mined.

  5. #5
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    Array buckeye .45's Avatar
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    Make sure when you are cleaning the barrel that you go from breech to muzzle directionally.
    Fortes Fortuna Juvat

    Former, USMC 0311, OIF/OEF vet
    NRA Pistol/Rifle/Shotgun/Reloading Instructor, RSO, Ohio CHL Instructor

  6. #6
    Member Array Whip12's Avatar
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    Feeding issues usually come from too much input without not allowing excess oxygen intake to be able to neutralize.
    Oh wait, that's feeding and burping baby with a bottle! Sorry.
    Just make sure all the deposits from firing rounds down the barrel and the residue get cleaned off the reachable surfaces on a basic breakdown, tiny amounts of lube where the slides and frame work on each other, and wipe it all down when your done.
    XD's will last forever.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Array CWOUSCG's Avatar
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    I don't know, sounds like you may be over lubing the guibo pivot and the loudencracken. Send it to me at the address I just PM'ed you and I'll get that sucker straightened out for you.

    Welcome to the forum!

    "If someone gets into your house which would you rather have, a handgun or a phone? You can call the police if you want, and they’ll get there; and they’ll take a picture of your dead body."

  8. #8
    Member Array TheXDmGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whip12 View Post
    Feeding issues usually come from too much input without not allowing excess oxygen intake to be able to neutralize.
    Oh wait, that's feeding and burping baby with a bottle! Sorry.
    Just make sure all the deposits from firing rounds down the barrel and the residue get cleaned off the reachable surfaces on a basic breakdown, tiny amounts of lube where the slides and frame work on each other, and wipe it all down when your done.
    XD's will last forever.
    Thanks bro yeah that's what i heard that's why i got one. Not to mention they are the best looking polymer frame pistol on the market imo.

  9. #9
    Member Array MacReady's Avatar
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    Seems like you've more or less got it. Honestly, with any modern handgun, you'd be hard pressed to "screw up" the cleaning process. Most guns are designed to run dirty and with little to no lubrication. Personally I just make it point to clean and lube the big parts that slide, reciprocate, or articulate. If you're going to have a cycling problem with a semi-auto it will usually be due to fouling in the slide groves, along the frame rails, or the barrel cam. Also, I make it a point to scrub the inside of the extractor hook and the breach face -- a lot of cycling failures can occur from fouling in those areas as well.

    I usually try not to get cleaners or lubricants in the trigger group of any pistol unless I'm in the mood for a full detail strip (which I'm usually not). It won't cause any damage but it can start running out all over your hand during the next shooting session (which can be annoying) and might change the "feel" of the gun's trigger pull.

  10. #10
    Member Array TheXDmGuy's Avatar
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    Is there a difference between the trigger assembly and the "action". I'm not to sure as to what exactly the "action" is.

  11. #11
    Member Array sammeow's Avatar
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    Only thing I might suggest is using a little dab of grease on the rails.
    I apply it with a toothpick and wipe off the excess.
    Remember, when it comes to lubing firearms, a little goes a long way.
    There's only one way to get to heaven. John 14:6

  12. #12
    Senior Member Array GunTeacher's Avatar
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    ^^^ Unless it's a 1911, then it's not enough until it drips off your elbow.

    Shoudda bought a Glock, they don't need lubrication, when they get dirty you just toss them in the dishwasher and shake 'em dry.

    Welcome to the forum young fella. Some people here will pull your leg.

    Seriously though, I have an XDM 45. Hoppes is fine, I use Shotgun cleaner (a little milder than automotive brake cleaner) on metal only parts - DO NOT use heavy solvents or anything with acetone around plastic parts it will melt them - spelled damage or destroy your frame. Anyway, I hose down the slide and barrel with shotgun blast, followed by spraying with Rem Oil, followed by a light coat of gun oil (take your pick 10w30 works if that's all you have). I put a few drops on the rails and slide rails and moving parts.

    I personally don't use grease. To me, grease mixed with powder and dirt is kind of like a lapping compound and I feel it can cause unnecessary wear. That's just me, others like a little grease. Keyword is "little." Do what works for you.

    DO NOT lube the firing pin or channel in the slide. A little Rem oil spray won't hurt for rust prevention, but oil picks up powder residue and can make the pin stick resulting in light or no primer strike.
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