Removing surface rust

This is a discussion on Removing surface rust within the Firearm Cleaning & Maintenance forums, part of the General Firearm Discussion category; I've read about using 00, 000, or 0000 steel wool to remove it and some oil. What about if it is in the cocking serations ...

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Thread: Removing surface rust

  1. #1
    Senior Member Array cuban11182's Avatar
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    Question Removing surface rust

    I've read about using 00, 000, or 0000 steel wool to remove it and some oil. What about if it is in the cocking serations on the slide? Steel wire brush may be too rough....maybe brass? Or will the steel wool work fine.

    Also, if I remove some blueing just apply some Cold Blue?

    Thanks.

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    Naval jelly (yes that's really the name) can be had in any hardware store and will romove ANY and ALL rust. The problem is that bluing is a form of rust and will be removed too. Cold blue works fine but will not be the same color as the rest of the bluing (and not as durable). You might want to naval jelly the whole thing and then have it re-blued. It shouldn't cost more than 20 or 30 bucks for a slide.
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    Ex Member Array Ram Rod's Avatar
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    http://www.defensivecarry.com/vbulle...hlight=surface
    Also...check into Brownell's website. They have several self help videos covering many different subjects concerning firearms and their care.

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    cuban, is this on a M&P?
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    VIP Member Array paramedic70002's Avatar
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    I have used a bore brush to remove rust . But as said, it comes back. After you get the problem fixed, try Renaissance wax to protect.
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    VIP Member Array Sticks's Avatar
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    I have the rust issue as well, along with healthy holster wear on the blueing. Almost looks abused.

    Glass bead sand blasting the frame, slide, and components, then Duracoat for my baby this winter. Still deciding on single color, two tone, or custom pattern to match my tattoo.
    Sticks

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    Senior Member Array coffeecup's Avatar
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    Try the eraser end of a yellow pencil. It works and wont remove the blueing.

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    Member Array dogrunner's Avatar
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    If the rust is only light surface, then the application of very fine steel wool, lightly dipped in a good solvent, works.

    Better still, if you can lay hands on some bronze wool, it'll work as well and since it is soft you are less likely to 'scour' the remaining finish.

    Should you use any of the chemical rust/blue removers, then you'll be left with bare metal that'l require some sort of a refinish.

    If the steel/bronze wool method works but the finish appears a bit worn then get a small bottle of Brownell's Oxphoblue and rub it onto the affected area very rapidly with 4O steel wool......should nicely cover and reasonably match your original.

    Hope this helps.

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    A brush with bronze bristles (unnecessary to use steel-stay away from) and a dab of machine oil will work wonders and will save the remaining finish. A thin coating of RIG or preservative of your choice will keep the bad ol' rust away.

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    Senior Member Array cuban11182's Avatar
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    The gun is a Taurus PT-92C. I'll try these ideas, thanks.

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    Member Array metaldemon7's Avatar
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    Son I already cleaned and reblued the parts of the Taurus that looked a little bit rusted. It wasn't bad at all. Used birchwood rust and blue remover, and a cold blueing paste. Looks Good

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    iosso.com: GUNBRITE

    Try this first. I used it in a couple of guns that were stored in less than pristine circumstances and it worked beautifully without removing the bluing.
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    Breakfree nd a copper penny has always worked for me.. Place plenty of breakfree on the spot, and GENTLY rub the edge of the penny on the metal, in short light strokes back nd forth. watch what happens.
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