Pistol Cleaning Advice

This is a discussion on Pistol Cleaning Advice within the Firearm Cleaning & Maintenance forums, part of the General Firearm Discussion category; I need help. Firstly let me say I am a bit anal about cleaning. It's a personal thing I have to deal with.. Is there ...

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Thread: Pistol Cleaning Advice

  1. #1
    Distinguished Member Array Diddle's Avatar
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    Pistol Cleaning Advice

    I need help. Firstly let me say I am a bit anal about cleaning. It's a personal thing I have to deal with..

    Is there simple, tried and proven, safe cleaning solutions? It's not that I am overly concerned about health issues but bottles with skull and cross-bones, posion, danger and extremely labels on them bother me.

    I have been given suggestons of mixtures of everything from WD-40 to Kroil to litterly putting the pistol in the dishwasher (seriously).

    Currently I am using Hoppe's Elite (it does not say #9 on it) cleaner which is biodegradable and (apparently) not deadly.
    Is it suffient for the run of the mill, after 50 rounds, type cleaning?
    A google search for "gun cleaning solution" turns up about 4 million hits. Gun cleaning+Kroil turns up about 10K hts.

    Bottom line is that I want to do what is best for the gun, myself and the environment. And frankly in that order.

    One suggestion was "Kroil (or WD40) on a boresnake, three passes and your done" After runnng a patch through the barrel I respectifully disagree to that one.

    I realize all ammo produces it's own resdue dependng on a number factors. Right now I am using CCI subsonic CB for practice and training with my wfe. And that is through a Heritage revolver. After a a number rounds we switch over to a S&W 22A and CCI Stngers.
    This will be the only guns she will be using until she feels confident and knows the guns well enough to filed strip them and learns their responce based on her actions.

    Of the thousands of cleaning kits, chemicals and proceedures, there HAS to one generally acceptated and proven method and chemical compisitaton that is safe and convenient for general purpose use for small arms cleaning.

    All I want to do is the right thing, in a responsible fashion, without buring down the house or having to obtain yet another EPS licnese.

    Thanks for your time and expertise in educating us.

    Craig

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  3. #2
    Ex Member Array Ram Rod's Avatar
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    One word. Gunzilla.
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    Distinguished Member Array GWRedDragon's Avatar
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    I would suggest that ANY cleaning solution which is powerful enough to work should be used in a well-ventilated environment.

    As to 'effects on the planet' I really don't think using Hoppes, etc has any effect whatsoever. You are probably contributing more to the downfall of the planet by breathing out CO2 just sitting there.
    "Trust in God with hand on sword" -Inscription on my family's coat of arms from medieval England
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  5. #4
    Member Array Dieselnut's Avatar
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    I'm pretty OCD about cleaning things as well. After reading many threads and recommendations, I decided to go with Weapon Shield. So far, I really like it. Do some searches and see for yourself, maybe it's just what you were looking for
    Don't ever underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

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    Member Array bonehead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dieselnut View Post
    I'm pretty OCD about cleaning things as well. After reading many threads and recommendations, I decided to go with Weapon Shield. So far, I really like it. Do some searches and see for yourself, maybe it's just what you were looking for
    I've been using WS only for lubrication, although it's advertised as a true CLP. I clean with MPro7 gun cleaner and bore gel.

    Problem with all these products is the difficulty in getting what I think is a thorough cleaning. HK does not recommend nor provide any instructions on a detailed strip. There are just so many cracks and crevices in this gun that it's impossible to get as clean as I like it (I'm very OCD about this. I clean after every shoot, even if its only 10-20 rounds). Compound this with the fact that it takes me a good 1.5-2 hours everytime is starting to get on my nerves.

    Bought a can of non-chlorinated BrakeKleen. Haven't used it yet, but this stuff can obviously get in the tight areas I cannot reach and do it in a fraction of the time. Only problem is I'm afraid its gonna melt my tupperware lower. Will report back after I use it for the first time....

  7. #6
    Senior Member Array BeefyBeefo's Avatar
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    I'm a big fan of G96. It smells good too!


  8. #7
    Member Array Dieselnut's Avatar
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    Getting into the tiny crevices is definitely a problem. I'm almost wishing I had a spray of sorts, to let the pressure of the fluid work its way into the cracks and blow the dirt out. Can't really do that with Weapon Shield, so I've been going at it with the various brushes. I think I need to pick up some cleaning picks or something similar, for areas where my fingers just can't squeeze in. I'm trying to stay away from cotton swabs
    Don't ever underestimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

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    simple green PLUS

    I use Simple Green... and a steamer... after that an air compressor... and then oil it.

    Works well and it only uses electricity.

    The steam cleaner also cleans the area after and that pleases my wife.
    “We sleep safely in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm” - George Orwell

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    VIP Member Array mlr1m's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bonehead View Post

    Bought a can of non-chlorinated BrakeKleen. Haven't used it yet, but this stuff can obviously get in the tight areas I cannot reach and do it in a fraction of the time. Only problem is I'm afraid its gonna melt my tupperware lower. Will report back after I use it for the first time....
    BrakeKleen is an excellent cleaning product if you are careful. Keep it away from plastic or paint and any wood finish. It removes it all just like its intended to do.

    Michael

  11. #10
    Member Array bonehead's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlr1m View Post
    BrakeKleen is an excellent cleaning product if you are careful. Keep it away from plastic or paint and any wood finish. It removes it all just like its intended to do.

    Michael
    This is my concern. Are the polymer frames made by HK safe for this stuff? (Everyone says 'test it on a small, inconspicuous part of the grip and see what happens.' What?!?!! I don't want even a small part of my grip all messed up b/c of this stuff)

  12. #11
    Distinguished Member Array Arko's Avatar
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    I don't know about effectiveness of anything but Hoppes or Break Free, but to look at health effects and personal protection do a Google search for the product name + MSDS (material safety data sheet)
    EG: WD40 + MSDS

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    Quote Originally Posted by homepcmd View Post
    I use Simple Green... and a steamer... after that an air compressor... and then oil it.

    Works well and it only uses electricity.

    The steam cleaner also cleans the area after and that pleases my wife.
    That's a great idea. I often use hot soap and water, sometimes throwing the parts into an ultrasonic, then a good blow dry and lube.
    "Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch; Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote."
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    VIP Member Array nedrgr21's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bonehead View Post
    Are the polymer frames made by HK safe for this stuff? (Everyone says 'test it on a small, inconspicuous part of the grip and see what happens.'
    It hasn't hurt my Glock. Try it on the inside of the mag well. Make sure you lube what needs lubing after using it. No need to slather oil all over - it will attract dirt.

    WipeOut works great for cleaning the barrel - biodegradable and no smell.

  15. #14
    Senior Member Array NYcarry's Avatar
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    * Gunzilla contains no hazardous chemicals, is non flammable, and non-corrosive.
    * Gunzilla removes carbon, copper, lead, rust, plastic fouling and cleans corrosive ammo.
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  16. #15
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    I use Hoppes #9, non chlorinated brake parts cleaner and breakfree or rem oil. Sometimes even foaming bore cleaner too. Wear rubber gloves if worried about chemical exposure and as said, a well ventilated space..
    "In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock." Thomas Jefferson


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