Gun Lubrication...Your Method?

This is a discussion on Gun Lubrication...Your Method? within the Firearm Cleaning & Maintenance forums, part of the General Firearm Discussion category; I thought it would be interesting to learn the different methods or techniques, each of us, as individuals, use to lubricate our handguns and rifles. ...

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Thread: Gun Lubrication...Your Method?

  1. #1
    Member Array Bart's Avatar
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    Gun Lubrication...Your Method?

    I thought it would be interesting to learn the different methods or techniques, each of us, as individuals, use to lubricate our handguns and rifles. (focus on barrels & cylinders) Some lubricate with an oil soaked patch and remove the excess oil with a bore mop. Others lubricate with an oil soaked bore mop and remove excess oil with a jag and patch. How many different methods & techniques used is anybody's guess. Is one way really better than another? Any useful tips, short cuts, ideas or opinions?

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    Member Array chambered's Avatar
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    everyone has their own way, I don't think one is right or wrong just different.
    I actually have one that I'm not cleaning right now to see where the point is that the "build-up" effects the function of it. 500 rounds and no problems.

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    Member Array JohnD13's Avatar
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    I just use a jag and patch for oiling, and then a dry patch run through to remove any extra oil.

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    Senior Member Array Mardet65's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnD13 View Post
    I just use a jag and patch for oiling, and then a dry patch run through to remove any extra oil.
    I've done the same for the past 40 or so years.
    "Kimbers are the guns you show your friends, Glocks are the guns you show your enemies."

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    My barrels - I scrub out with WeaponShield and then run a few clean, dry patches through.

    My only revolver cylinders these days are Stainless steel so after the cartridge holes are scrubbed clean I keep them devoid of any oil.

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    Member Array kingdaddyoh's Avatar
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    After cleaning with Gunzilla and various brushes, and cleaning bore with Brownells JD Borebright, boresnakes and such I lightly coat everthing with Gunzilla and wipe "dry". Then use an artist brush to lightly apply Brownells Action Lube to friction parts.
    Ain't no fun when the rabbit has a gun!

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    Senior Member Array sheepdog's Avatar
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    needle oilers

    I have found that the little plastic needle oilers Brownell's sells are a great way to get at places that need a tiny drop, and I can put my Weaponshield, Miltech, or whatever right where it needs to be. Plus, I can buy the bigger bottles of product to refill from and not have to carry big bottles in the kit or on the bench.
    What Would Gumby Do?

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    VIP Member Array edr9x23super's Avatar
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    Break free or WD-40 to break up the powder fouling on all the parts;

    RB-17 to clean the bore.

    Castrol Syntech to relube. Only enough to do the job.
    "Guard with jealous attention the public liberty. Suspect everyone who approaches that jewel. Unfortunately, nothing will preserve it but downright force. Whenever you give up that force, you are inevitably ruined". - Patrick Henry

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    VIP Member Array varob's Avatar
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    I oil the surfaces that touch. slide rails, barrel lugs, etc. any thing that's shinny. On blued steel, I rub down the entire surface, with an "oil rag", and buff with a clean cloth diaper. gives it a real deep dark mirrored finish.
    Don't believe what you hear and only half of what you see!
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    wpk
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    I clean all surfaces with Gunzilla, then run a boresnake through the bore a few times until it's completely clean. Q-tips to get into all the nooks and crannies. Then I just put a small dab of grease on the rails and I'm done.
    "America is a nation of laws; poorly written and randomly enforced." -Frank Zappa

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    Member Array Gunsmoke16's Avatar
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    Fastest way to clean dirt, grease, powder residue and cosmoline out (provided it isn't a plastic gun or a Beretta SS model- never use gun scrubber on-friend lost his finish & had to send back to factory) is Gun Scrubber. I refuse
    to spend a fortune on this stuff though and just use $.99 spray carburetor cleaner. test some on your hand first-it should NOT leave an oily residue. It will roll all the stuff out. Use an oiled plastic scrubber brush on the barrel & the standard military green toothbrush thing to clean the breach lockup points, etc. Note: after carb cleaner, there is 0 oil on the gun. Must re-oil it before touching with your hands (I like to use cotton gloves when cleaning or reloading. Ever load up about 1000rnds with lead bullets & get lead poisoned from contact handling? Not good-use the gloves.) Breakfree is good for general use, but I use Slick 50 in red spray can/black top (check auto stores) to wipe it down with as works better than any thing I have tried to keep rust from happening in damp environments. It will survive a trip in the rain with this stuff, along with plenty of handling. Any rust spots starting? After the carb CL hosedown, use a pencil eraser to remove it, retouch up with blue pen and the #2 lead pencil used to lead it really good. Wipe it down with gun oil. Note how lead disappears and blends perfect! Dunno exactly "what" the lead does, but an old gunsmith showed me this on heavy used shotguns and it really stops the rust. If it's handgun magazines, you can do the same and instead of oiling them, use carnauba car wax on them. Have tried this with the old .45 mags. Works well, don't rust and makes them really fast load/unloading. I usually disassemble to clean unless fired less than a mag, then just scrub it good with that plastic cleaning brush and put an oiled patch on it and drag it through, replacing them until very clean. Usually leave a thin layer of oil on all parts. The rails should be oiled at back, cycle it a few times to let the stuff run down them. The Brownell's piquettes (those little plastic bulb suckers with long skinny tips you can suck up some gun oil & put wherever) are really good for applying to the tricky spots. Make sure check the extractor for dirt/wear & the frame rails and frame itself for any cracking while apart.
    Check springs, barrel ramp, hood (top inside where bullet enters) & crown (exit). Firing pin should be checked/removed/oiled periodically as powder residue & old oil will build up causing failure. Make sure not to use excessive
    oil as it can soak into your ammo primers and cause a failure. Wet weather
    workers should get sealed ammo (like Sellior & Bellot) or buy their own primer
    sealer & treat their ammo to prevent moisture failure at primer pocket/bullet. Good Luck, Happy Shooting.

  13. #12
    Distinguished Member Array ripley16's Avatar
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    (focus on barrels
    I treat with Militec 1 prior to shooting. After shooting, I clean with Hoppes, brush and patches, appy a thin coat of Militec to the outside with a patch or Q-tip, and run a lightly coated patch through the barrel. I wipe down the ramp, then reassemble.

    Rails get TW25b.
    Other little parts get Zero Friction from a needle oiler.
    Inside of the slide gets rubbed with Militec 1.

  14. #13
    Member Array TapRackBang's Avatar
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    Clean my firearms with gunzilla, Put a light coat on moving parts and I'm done.
    "Arms in the hands of individual citizens may be used at individual discretion..in private self defense." John Adams

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    Member Array mosouthpaw's Avatar
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    i found that veterinary syringes with needles make great cheap oilers. each gun cleans different, so cleaning and oiling depends on the gun.

  16. #15
    Member Array Mountaineer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by TapRackBang View Post
    Clean my firearms with gunzilla, Put a light coat on moving parts and I'm done.
    I keep reading about Gunzilla. It sounds like fabulous stuff. I really like it's low toxicity and the fact that it's plant based.

    Does it really do a good enough job cleaning? Can you clean the bore with it? Other than grease for the slide, is it the only thing you need, or do you need other products?

    Thanks!
    -M

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