Dry Graphite spray
Has anyone used this? I was looking at a big can of it that I got from NAPA. I was thinking it may be a good dry lube. And, since my PT145 is black, I wouldn't have to worry about the color, like I found out when I lubed the door handles on my car.:embarassed:
I use graphite on my Beta drum
it came with it but does get hands
dirty some. Not sure about spray though
graphite seems to work good
you can also find dry spray moly and teflon, both are less messy
Well, I tried it out. I carefully sprayed it onto the areas where metal on metal occurs. I also sprayed it into the area on the slide where the trigger interacts and it is smoother on pulling the slide and the trigger seems easier to pull, maybe less friction making it feel lighter?
The other day I took some 400 then 800 wet dry to the shiny part of the barrel ( the top of the barrel) and I also sanded down the inside of the slide where the barrel slides. This has also smoothed out the action too.
Sounds worth trying. Does WalMart carry it?
I got it at NAPA. I was looking for something to lube my door handle/mechanism with. I don't remember the price. It was mentioned above about the moly spray. This may be good too, but less messy, the graphite is black and kind messy.
I have a Taurus PT145 and it is all black, so I wasn't too worried about overspray, but any other color gun and you would have to be very careful.
Below you can see a breakdown of a gun like mine. I sprayed all of the outside of the barrel and the inside of the slide and in the handle where it had moving parts. I also sprayed the two recoil springs and what they slide on. After everything was dry, for the most part I wiped everything down. A lot of parts actually got kind of a shine to them as the graphite got polished from wiping it down. I also wiped up any places where the spray pooled and this way I didn't ahve to worry about it being too thick. I was really careful to keep it off of the outside of the slide, as I don't want that part or the outside of the frame to be slippery.
Also, on top of the barrel and the feed ramp is were I sanded and then polished with Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish. Those parts came out with a mirror finish. There area in the slide were the barrel top slides along the inside of the slide I sanded as best I could, but it still needs work.
I think I will need to start with 320 grit and move up to 400, 600, 800 then 1000, but it feels a LOT smoother already.
If I can figure out how to get some sand paper into it, I want to sand inside the slide were there is a channel that it slides back and forth on the polymer frame. My goal on this is to reduce friction. I am going to call Taurus on Monday to see if there could be any adverse effects to this, but I am only polishing, carefully so I don't see how it could be a problem
I just noticed that this frame has something of a rail on it. Mine is all smooth and I have no way of adding a flashlight or laser. I would LOVE a laser sight!
You might consider visiting the website at 300Below. The process aligns the molecules and will, by itself, slick up the action. Your weapon won't require nearly as much cleaning or lube (bore or action). Your point of impact will also cease to creep as your barrel heats.
Teflon or graphite.........I would go with Teflon actually. I am thinking one shouldn't mix any other liquid oils or lubricants with graphite as it might become abrasive when the particles become suspended in the mixture. I could be wrong, but in the back of my feeble mind, I remember something about this.
It seems to me graphite would build up and make your gun sluggish, specially after firing a few rounds. JMO
There is a fantistic dry lub that's called RZ50 Home Depot & Lowe's also should carry it, I saw it advertized in some gun magazine about a year ago so decided to give it a try & I was impressed, they have a web site RZ50.COM & read its uses & properties you will be suprised & the stuff really does work great.on guns & fishing stuff etc.
I'm relatively new to guns and cleaning. Currently I'm leaning to switching to MilTec-1 or Milcomm. Sig supplied a small container of Milcomm.
At any rate, now that I've established my "newbie" status with regard to guns, I just wanted to mention that the space program does not use dry graphite lubricant for a very good reason; it's not dry. It actually attracts and holds a very thin film of water. In a vacuum, the water boils off and the graphite becomes an abrasive.
Now I realize you're not likely to use a gun in a vacuum, but I just thought the "water" factor might be a concern.
Take it for what it's worth, I'm still learning.
Graphite and other carbon compounds at high temperatures can cause stainless steel to "carburize". The carbide precipitates produced promote corrosion. The consequences of carburization are:
* the steel loses its stainless quality
* the mechanical properties are harmed,
* red rust corrosion appears.
* Loss of metal, cracks and pinholes appear.