I don't like to dry fire 10/22s.
This is a discussion on Ruger 10/22 in case for 20 years aprox. within the Firearm Cleaning & Maintenance forums, part of the General Firearm Discussion category; I don't like to dry fire 10/22s....
I don't like to dry fire 10/22s.
Good people do not need laws to tell them to act responsibly, while bad people will find a way around laws. Plato
Wish I could.............LOL.now shoot very tight groups at 100 years.
Careful with the dry fires on a rimfire.....Bad ju ju..............
"He went on two legs, wore clothes and was a human being, but nevertheless he was in reality a wolf of the Steppes. He had learned a good deal . . . and was a fairly clever fellow. What he had not learned, however, was this: to find contentment in himself and his own life. The cause of this apparently was that at the bottom of his heart he knew all the time (or thought he knew) that he was in reality not a man, but a wolf of the Steppes."
I still have and shoot a 10/22 that was the first firearm I ever bought back in the 60's. The only problem I ever had with it was the firing pin return spring. I had shot so many rounds through it that it wore flat spots on the coil spring and it started breaking down, causing occasional misfires. The firing pin was still fine. Easy .50 cent fix.
The 10/22 can be dry fired with out damage that so many other .22's receive because in Ruger's genius he designed the 10/22 so the firing pin did not hit the breach. I would not recommend dry firing it while sitting around watching TV all night but if you think about it, after almost every mag full you shoot, you dry fire it as the bolt does not lock open after the last shot, unless of course you count every shot so that does not happen (which I never have)... So don't worry about that.
Before I'd shoot your gun I would;
1. Separate the rifle from the stock; Remove the barrel band by putting your flat blade screw driver in the slot after removing the long screw, twist it sideways to open it up and slip it down the barrel, that way you wont scratch your barrel. Remove the large screw in front of the mag well and set your safety half and half so it won't mare the wood as you pull it from the stock.
Most of the rifle is put together with pins and are easy to remove and some times will fall out so be careful in turning it from side to side once you have the rifle separated from the stock.
2. Disassemble it to it's basic parts, laying the pins down in an orderly manor so you know where they came from, and clean thoroughly and to relearn how it operates. It's not difficult and is rather fun. The only thing I ever did wrong in putting it back together was to not have the ejector facing forward in it's slot when putting the trigger housing back onto the receiver. Funny enough it still worked pretty darn good, but bent the heck out of the ejector and I had to replace it. The bolt is a bit of a trick, but not impossible. You have to hold the cocking lever back while dropping the bolt in with it's slot on top of the lever.
I would hose the entire thing down real good with a good solvent, scrub with a brush, repeat until clear liquid runs off. Then air blast it. Oil with your favorite oil, and air blast again... Then wipe down well...
3. Run a wire brush down the barrel a few times with a good bore cleaner on it, then the patch. If your respectful of the crown on the barrel, a few swabs with and aluminum rod will not hurt (never hurt mine), just keep the rod clean so no grit increases the wear factor, you'll be OK. The 10/22 was not designed to be cleaned from the breech with a rod, or Ruger would have put a hole in the back of the receiver for such a thing. The bore snake would of course eliminate the need for the rod, but I never used one and my 10/22 is still a shooter!
You have a great gun that has increased in value big time and ultimately has not been improved on, by much anyway.. Still the same original design.
I paid, with tax under $50.00 for mine with a nice Walnut stock. It's worth around $300.00 now.
I'ld definitely check the barrel. I do look down mine, with a light on the other end.... so if anything down there moves... it's not going past the light there without jamming. Obviously ... no light can be seen coming out the end of the barrel , nor can the light be in there, if there is a round or a magazine present.
If you don't see the glow in the barrel of the light... don't look down the barrel ... make sure the gun is clear and why you can't see it....
or use a mirror and do it the other way around.
I'm going to need to sell the 10/22. Can anyone give me a ballpark of what I should be looking to sell it for?
Also...would not dry fire without using a snap cap....otherwise, you will damage the breech and the firing pin
Magazine <> clip - know the difference
martyr is a fancy name for crappy fighter
You have never lived until you have almost died. For those that have fought for it, life has a special flavor the protected will never know