Gun Store Etiquette - Page 3

Gun Store Etiquette

This is a discussion on Gun Store Etiquette within the General Firearm Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; Originally Posted by unloved What detriment? I run steel case Wolf .223 through my non chromed Colt all the time with zero problems. The steel ...

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Thread: Gun Store Etiquette

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by unloved View Post
    What detriment? I run steel case Wolf .223 through my non chromed Colt all the time with zero problems.
    The steel jacket is very thin. Probably less than light weight aluminum foil.

    Corrosion is the problem. Steel to steel is not a problem. Dissimilar materials like aluminum to steel will begin to corrode immediately. That is why the Wolf projectiles are coated. This isolates the aluminum types from the steel. Now if the billet was nickle alloy steel, there would be considerable wear in a short time. You would also be shooting what ATF restricts and classifies as armor piercing.

    Chrome plating does not make bumpers harder. Chrome is actually very soft and why nickle is added to it for things like truck bumpers and motor cycle exhaust pipes. The chromes purpose is mainly cosmetic. It protects the steel from rust and corrosion the same as paint.
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  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by SIGP250 View Post
    Corrosion is the problem. Steel to steel is not a problem. Dissimilar materials like aluminum to steel will begin to corrode immediately. That is why the Wolf projectiles are coated. This isolates the aluminum types from the steel.
    Huh? Wolf projectiles aren't coated, unless you consider copper jacketed FMJ coated. The cases are coated to inhibit corrosion of the cases, because they're mild, carbon steel, and would rust in storage if they weren't coated. Wolf uses non-corrosive primers, the steel cases are considerably softer than the steel of your firearm's chamber, and the case, obviously, never contacts the rifling. I don't what aluminum has to do with anything, as neither Wolf bullets, nor cases, are aluminum.


    Other than the fact that it's pretty dirty, there is nothing wrong with Wolf ammo, and it certainly won't damage firearms.

  3. #33
    Senior Member Array Ring's Avatar
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    ive probaly shoot close to 2000 rounds of old laqure wold and new poly wolf threw a few AR's, 2 were chrome, the other were not... the accuracy sucked, but the ammo was relaiable.... only issue i had was with old laqure wolf and doing bump fire mag dumps and smoking my gun.....

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by unloved View Post
    Huh? Wolf projectiles aren't coated, unless you consider copper jacketed FMJ coated. The cases are coated to inhibit corrosion of the cases, because they're mild, carbon steel, and would rust in storage if they weren't coated. Wolf uses non-corrosive primers, the steel cases are considerably softer than the steel of your firearm's chamber, and the case, obviously, never contacts the rifling. I don't what aluminum has to do with anything, as neither Wolf bullets, nor cases, are aluminum.


    Other than the fact that it's pretty dirty, there is nothing wrong with Wolf ammo, and it certainly won't damage firearms.
    Blazer pistol ammo has aluminum cases I believe (which has nothing to do with this thread ).

    Wolf ammo I would never recommend. When I owned an SKS I would shoot tons of it and just thought shooting in general was dirty. I constantly spent more then an hour cleaning the receiver and bore. Another hour to clean the bolt and gas piston assembly then reassemble.

    When I started into reloading I couldn't believe it... I can shoot 60-120 rounds of reloaded ammo through my AR and there is barely any fouling at all!

    Each manufacturer uses different types of powder thus some more dirty then others. Using different metal cases could also come up short in the accuracy department..... example: I can say from experience that with my 1891/30 using brass cased ammo will yield better accuracy (especially if I reload) This was not only tested with steel case surplus but also steel case wolf.

    This has less to do with plinking but in some cases brass cased ammo will have more projectile velocity. An example from real world experience is with my .44 magnum, blazer ammo had no more power or kick then .44 special....
    (verified when the velocity of the blazer 240g HP was wildly inconsistent at 750-900fps where as the Hornaday 240g XTP yielded a pretty consistent 1350-1400fps and the Winchester 240g FNSP yielded a very consistent 1400fps +/-10fps).
    The cases for the blazer ammo also needed to be extracted by hand which wasn't the case with any brass cases.


    It is an undeniable fact that using a harder metal case like steel in a semi automatic WILL wear various parts quicker then if you used a softer metal like brass. However for this to be seen it may take more ammo then the average person would shoot in the life of a rifle.


    Sorry for the long winded post but my point is that cheap steel case ammo is fine for plinking and isn't going to wear out your rifle super fast. With the money you save in ammo you should however buy cleaning supplies.
    There is something about firing 4,200 thirty millimeter rounds/min that makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside.

  5. #35
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    I always see the rebates and deals, AFTER I buy someplace else or a few days to early or late, causing me pain and straining my brain.

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    Ok, correct me if I'm wrong...Companies NICKEL plate brass ( usually the best ammo ) why would they do that if the nickel is harder and would wear the chamber? Why did Colt and the U.S. govt. decide to CHROME line thier M-16s to provide durability and make them easier to clean if its softer and prone to wear? I'm getting confused here..
    As far as durability, hard-chrome is one of the toughest finishes out there.
    Lets throw out barrel wear since we're not talking about a projectile, just the case.

    Looking back at the start of this, I have to apologize for straying off subject. I'll say no more...
    Last edited by boatail; March 27th, 2010 at 12:15 PM. Reason: hi-jack of thread

  7. #37
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    I wasn't there to see what transpired, but, maybe the buyer was making a straw purchase and didn't care how much the AR cost, or how bad the ammo he was getting with the gun was?
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  8. #38
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    That will teach him to maybe research prices a little more before he decides to drop that much money on a gun he clearly doesn't know that much about.
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  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by boatail View Post
    Ok, correct me if I'm wrong...Companies NICKEL plate brass ( usually the best ammo ) why would they do that if the nickel is harder and would wear the chamber?
    Nickel is not harder than steel. They plate the brass for improved lubricity... nickel is slicker. Makes for a more reliable ejections from an auto loader, especially under dirty, wet, and generally unfavorable conditions.
    Az

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  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by unloved View Post
    Huh? Wolf projectiles aren't coated, unless you consider copper jacketed FMJ coated. The cases are coated to inhibit corrosion of the cases, because they're mild, carbon steel, and would rust in storage if they weren't coated. Wolf uses non-corrosive primers, the steel cases are considerably softer than the steel of your firearm's chamber, and the case, obviously, never contacts the rifling. I don't what aluminum has to do with anything, as neither Wolf bullets, nor cases, are aluminum.


    Other than the fact that it's pretty dirty, there is nothing wrong with Wolf ammo, and it certainly won't damage firearms.
    I did not say Wolf makes any Aluminum Jacketed cartridges but it does exist. There is some fairly decent American made aluminum cased ammo, CCI/Speer makes some. Even Remington makes the Silver Tip. That is Aluminum. Sorry, it is not silver. Early steel and aluminum casings were lacquered. Now is a Polymer. What happens when the barrel gets hot after rapid fire? The casings don't always eject properly and the plastic gums up the barrel and ejector port. If you are going to use the junk stuff like Wolf, it is highly recommended that you clean it each time after shooting.
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  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by AzB View Post
    Nickel is not harder than steel. They plate the brass for improved lubricity... nickel is slicker. Makes for a more reliable ejections from an auto loader, especially under dirty, wet, and generally unfavorable conditions.
    I dunno about all that but I do know for a fact that nickle plating brass and bullet will make for a more corrosion resistant round. Plus it makes them look pretty.
    There is something about firing 4,200 thirty millimeter rounds/min that makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside.

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by boatail View Post
    Ok, correct me if I'm wrong...Companies NICKEL plate brass ( usually the best ammo ) why would they do that if the nickel is harder and would wear the chamber?
    You need to understand that nickle plating isn't going to make the brass a whole lot tougher. The coating is thin enough to keep the round in spec therefore will not make the brass harder but would provide really good corrosion protection.

    Why did Colt and the U.S. govt. decide to CHROME line thier M-16s to provide durability and make them easier to clean if its softer and prone to wear?

    I'm getting confused here..
    As far as durability, hard-chrome is one of the toughest finishes out there.
    Lets throw out barrel wear since we're not talking about a projectile, just the case.

    Looking back at the start of this, I have to apologize for straying off subject. I'll say no more...
    You answered yourself. Hard chrome that lines barrels of rifles is in reality a harder surface then the steel under them. There is a big difference between show chrome to make something look pretty and hard chroming a device for function. For one thing decorative chrome is typically thinner then industrial hard chroming, this is why cheap decorative chrome is so easily damaged and why the underlying metal will rust so easily.
    There is something about firing 4,200 thirty millimeter rounds/min that makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside.

  13. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by SIGP250 View Post
    If you are going to use the junk stuff like Wolf, it is highly recommended that you clean it each time after shooting.
    Maybe I'm just a dumb newbie, but shouldn't you clean your firearm after doing any shooting?

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueNinjaGo View Post
    Maybe I'm just a dumb newbie, but shouldn't you clean your firearm after doing any shooting?
    Under ideal conditions I yes. If you only shoot say 50 rounds, most firearms can probably wait another 150-200 rounds as long as it is not left in a safe for an extended period of time. Cleaning a firearm includes lubrication. If the gun is bone dry, I clean and lubricate no matter what.
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  15. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by SIGP250 View Post
    Under ideal conditions I yes. If you only shoot say 50 rounds, most firearms can probably wait another 150-200 rounds as long as it is not left in a safe for an extended period of time. Cleaning a firearm includes lubrication. If the gun is bone dry, I clean and lubricate no matter what.
    But won't just a few rounds, like 50, leave residue? Doesn't that residue absorb moisture? Or did I hear wrong?

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