I need help with a 1911 barrel

[Pro2A]

Long story short, my original 1911 barrel had a burr on the breech end (where the ammo rides up in). Well because of that it was pushing my hollow point rounds down into the casing. Obviously that is bad.

I ordered a new barrel online and I got it today. It looks great but I guess I didn't catch the fact that there was no link and pin where the slide stop goes through. Here is a picture I snapped with my iPhone on my work bench, sorry for the poor quality, but you get the point. The top one is my old barrel, the bottom one is the new one.



The problem is the new barrel does not have a pin or link to hold the slide lock into place. I tried like a dickens to punch the old one out and use it, but had no luck

Is there something I am missing? I would imagine it has to come out somehow. Do I have to order a new link and pin?

[DefensiveCarry.com]

[QKShooter]

You probably should order a new link & pin.
There is no guarantee that the link from your old barrel will have the proper hole spacing for your new barrel.
Because barrel links come in different size links...so you should order a set of 3 links.
I think Brownell's has a 3 link set.
Evolution Gun Works has a 6 link set but, it's $24.00 & I wouldn't invest in a 6 link set unless you were building a match gun.

[OD*]

Can you show us a picture of the burr?

[gasmitty]

I'm confident in my abilities as an amateur gunsmith, but quite frankly I would leave fitting a new barrel to a 1911 to a gunsmith. Too much stuff going on with respect to the link dimensions, bushing clearance, and locking lug/slide interface. A competent 1911 'smith will sort that out like child's play and get it right, not just "OK".

[120mm]

IF it's the burr at fault, I'd see if that was fixable before going to the effort of replacing the barrel and all that entails in an M1911.

There are no drop-in parts with an M1911. It is a collection of sub-systems, and changing one part creates a cascade effect of potential problems.

[QKShooter]

"There are no drop-in parts with an M1911. It is a collection of sub-systems, and changing one part creates a cascade effect of potential problems."


That statement needs a little bit of clarification.

That is certainly possible but, not necessarily always so.

Assuming that a person is buying high quality 1911 parts from a trusted source like Brownell's (and known manufacturer) - some "drop in" parts certainly will drop right in without any problems at all.

There are some non-critical parts that can always be swapped out for higher quality parts without incident.

AKA parts like the recoil spring plug & mainspring housing & usually the Magazine release, firing pin, firing pin stop.

Replacing the slide stop/release with a high quality well machined part is usually uneventful.

Some "drop in" parts will not always just "drop in" and it's highly important to know exactly what to do when they don't just "drop in" since you never want to create an unsafe firearm.

Parts like the barrel, disconnector, & the hammer & sear & thumb safety (for sure) will not always drop in.

These days your chances are somewhat BETTER of having a replacement hammer & sear "drop in" if you buy a MATED, EDMed or machined from tool steel, uber high quality hammer/sear combo with pre-polished faces.
Expensive though.

The EXTRACTOR never usually just drops right in without proper tensioning and fitting and it's also critical to proper feeding as well as reliable extraction.

The very bottom line is that you always need to do a complete, extensive, function check of the entire firearm after any new part installation and begin the actual shooting testing of your altered firearm by at first only putting one round in the magazine and then two..etc.

[aric]

Here is a pretty good explanation of fitting a 1911 barrel.


GunTech : Building A 1911 - Part III - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools

the easy-fit way

http://how-i-did-it.org/1911-project...l_fitting.html

[120mm]

"There are no drop-in parts with an M1911. It is a collection of sub-systems, and changing one part creates a cascade effect of potential problems."


That statement needs a little bit of clarification.

That is certainly possible but, not necessarily always so.

Assuming that a person is buying high quality 1911 parts from a trusted source like Brownell's (and known manufacturer) - some "drop in" parts certainly will drop right in without any problems at all.

There are some non-critical parts that can always be swapped out for higher quality parts without incident.

AKA parts like the recoil spring plug & mainspring housing & usually the Magazine release, firing pin, firing pin stop.

Replacing the slide stop/release with a high quality well machined part is usually uneventful.

Some "drop in" parts will not always just "drop in" and it's highly important to know exactly what to do when they don't just "drop in" since you never want to create an unsafe firearm.

Parts like the barrel, disconnector, & the hammer & sear & thumb safety (for sure) will not always drop in.

These days your chances are somewhat BETTER of having a replacement hammer & sear "drop in" if you buy a MATED, EDMed or machined from tool steel, uber high quality hammer/sear combo with pre-polished faces.
Expensive though.

The EXTRACTOR never usually just drops right in without proper tensioning and fitting and it's also critical to proper feeding as well as reliable extraction.

The very bottom line is that you always need to do a complete, extensive, function check of the entire firearm after any new part installation and begin the actual shooting testing of your altered firearm by at first only putting one round in the magazine and then two..etc.

Very well said. Thank you!