Removing scratches from stainless

Removing scratches from stainless

This is a discussion on Removing scratches from stainless within the General Firearm Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; Anyone have any advice/step by step on how to remove some light scratches from stainless steel. My SP101 has some scratches on the end of ...

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Thread: Removing scratches from stainless

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    Senior Member Array Adkjoe's Avatar
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    Removing scratches from stainless

    Anyone have any advice/step by step on how to remove some light scratches from stainless steel.

    My SP101 has some scratches on the end of the barrel that I would like to try to buff out. When I removed the sight pin a while back to put on a night sight the punch slipped out of the hole and put a nice scratch in the metal. It's not very deep but it bothers me. Just looking for some advice on what grit sandpaper and what to follow it up with etc... thanks!
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    Use a grey Scotchbrite pad. Its works as well as anything on stainless.
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    VIP Member Array Guantes's Avatar
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    Depending on the depth of the scratch you might want to go with Scotch-Brite rather than sandpaper. Here is a color/grit breakdown.


    SCOTCHBRITE GRIT CHART
    3M Scotch Brite Nylon Pads:
    7445 - White pad, called Light Duty Cleansing - (1000) 1200-1500 grit
    7448 - Light Grey, called Ultra Fine Hand - (600-800) 800 grit.
    6448 - Green (?), called Light Duty Hand Pad - (600) 600 grit
    7447 - Maroon pad, called General Purpose Hand - (320-400) 320 grit
    6444 - Brown pad, called Extra Duty Hand - (280-320) 240 grit
    7446 - Dark Grey pad, called Blending Pad (180-220) 150 grit
    7440 - Tan pad, called Heavy Duty Hand Pad - (120-150) 60(?)
    Blue Scotch-Brite is considered to be about 1000 grit.
    (The value inside the parentheses is directly from 3M.)
    3M Chart
    Less Aggressive --------> More Aggressive
    7445 7448 6448 7447 6444 7446 7440
    Finer Finish --------> Coarser Finish
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    Senior Member Array Adkjoe's Avatar
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    So would you suggest a light Grey than? Thanks for the chart!
    Vermont does not issue Permit/Licenses to Carry a Concealed firearm. Vermont allows anyone
    who can legally own a firearm to carry it concealed without a permit of any kind.

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    VIP Member Array HKinNY's Avatar
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    On the thread running on Seacamp 32. sobody mentioned Semipaste. Something like this. http://www.worleyswonderjewelryclean...emiChrome.html

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    Quote Originally Posted by HKinNY View Post
    On the thread running on Seacamp 32. sobody mentioned Semipaste. Something like this. http://www.worleyswonderjewelryclean...emiChrome.html
    Good stuff .
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    Member Array gschoelles's Avatar
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    Welding supply houses have pads that look like scothbrites and come in different grades of abrasiveness.

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    2 Cents...

    I’ve read some of the recommendations in this thread and most of them seem pretty reasonable. I too, dislike the brillo-pad look of stainless but I’m shallow and habitually lazy. I decided to send mine off to Smith’ for the factory ‘bright polish’ so I’ll post photos when it returns.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saber View Post
    I’ve read some of the recommendations in this thread and most of them seem pretty reasonable. I too, dislike the brillo-pad look of stainless but I’m shallow and habitually lazy. I decided to send mine off to Smith’ for the factory ‘bright polish’ so I’ll post photos when it returns.

    It will look like the ones in my avatar.

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    If I can't improve the finish with Flitz, then I'd try an abrasive.

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    Member Array gilliland87's Avatar
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    I to vote for Flitz. either try it first or use it as a last step after the scotch brite is away.

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    If you don't have a buffer you can get a buffing wheel for a drill motor and go use the rouge compounds that come in different colors from light to aggresive scratches. Home Depot will have it all. Always start out with the least aggresive compound or polish. Good luck
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    Ex Member Array Ram Rod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rson63 View Post
    If you don't have a buffer you can get a buffing wheel for a drill motor and go use the rouge compounds that come in different colors from light to aggressive scratches. Home Depot will have it all. Always start out with the least aggressive compound or polish. Good luck
    I agree. White rouge to start. As stated above, a high speed buffer will take less time, but you can try polishing with a soft 100% cotton cloth and doing it manually. Use brass punches when working on your firearms to minimize risks of scratching.

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    VIP Member Array Guns and more's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HKinNY View Post
    On the thread running on Seacamp 32. sobody mentioned Semipaste. Something like this. http://www.worleyswonderjewelryclean...emiChrome.html
    That was me. The Seecamp has a shiny finish and mine had a few light scratches on it. I used Simichrome, as it was recommended by the Seecamp forum. Put a dab on a clean cloth (it looks like toothpaste) and go to work. Mine looks like new now.
    I got mine off E-bay, but I'm sure it's in stores, I just didn't feel like searching. A tube was $9.00.
    However, for a matte finish, I'd go with the Scotchbrite pads.

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