Internal lock modification on S&W 637-2

Internal lock modification on S&W 637-2

This is a discussion on Internal lock modification on S&W 637-2 within the General Firearm Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; I just disabled the internal lock on my 637. I did mine by taking the so called "Flag" part outa the gun and grinding the ...

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Thread: Internal lock modification on S&W 637-2

  1. #1
    VIP Member Array gottabkiddin's Avatar
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    Internal lock modification on S&W 637-2

    I just disabled the internal lock on my 637. I did mine by taking the so called "Flag" part outa the gun and grinding the stud off that actually locks the hammer then reinstalled it. Now I don't have to buy the plug or worry about the remaining portion of the IL getting in the way of anything. Only by way of a function check, or word of mouth would anyone know it's disabled.

    Here's a pic of the flag with the stud removed.


    The top portion is where the stud should be. That's the part that rides in a channel of the hammer and when the key is turned to the left forces the stud into it's locking position.

    There's some discussion as to the liability and reasoning behind removing the IL, but IMO, if it's ever engaged itself on its with any S&W revolver and in doing so has rendered the firearm inoperable, it's worth doing. I went to the revolver only for the reliability factor, and I darn sure don't want the over regulating bureaucratic whiners messing that up and possibly costing me my life, or that of a love one.

    Thanks to one of DC's members for the links and advice.

    Here's a youtube clip of one such occurrence.
    YouTube - Smith & Wesson Performance Center 686 handgun locks up
    YouTube - Smith & Wesson Performance Center 686 handgun locks up pt. 2
    "He that hath no sword, let him sell his garment, and buy one." Luke 22:36

    "If a law is unjust, a man is not only right to disobey it, he is obligated to do so." Thomas Jefferson


  2. #2
    VIP Member Array wmhawth's Avatar
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    There's some discussion as to the liability and reasoning behind removing the IL, but IMO, if it's ever engaged itself on its with any S&W revolver and in doing so has rendered the firearm inoperable, it's worth doing. I went to the revolver only for the reliability factor, and I darn sure don't want the over regulating bureaucratic whiners messing that up and possibly costing me my life, or that of a love one.
    I disabled my ILs too but I still have a lock. It's called a padlock. Open the cylinder, put the lock through one of the chambers and lock it. The IL serves no other purpose than that padlock. It doesn't serve the same purpose as a safety. It's a useless gimmick and I think the case could be made in the event there was ever a liability or other legal issue. Sounds like you did a good job on yours.

  3. #3
    VIP Member Array gottabkiddin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wmhawth View Post
    I disabled my ILs too but I still have a lock. It's called a padlock. Open the cylinder, put the lock through one of the chambers and lock it. The IL serves no other purpose than that padlock. It doesn't serve the same purpose as a safety. It's a useless gimmick and I think the case could be made in the event there was ever a liability or other legal issue. Sounds like you did a good job on yours.
    .... Agreed. I'm very pleased to have it as it should be, a long intentional pull of the trigger and then it goes bang!
    "He that hath no sword, let him sell his garment, and buy one." Luke 22:36

    "If a law is unjust, a man is not only right to disobey it, he is obligated to do so." Thomas Jefferson

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    I struggle as to whether I wanna crack open my 637 to do this. I bought it new and never activated the lock. It's smooth as silk as it is now. Do you really think it's that much of a risk?
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    VIP Member Array wmhawth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gottabkiddin View Post
    .... Agreed. I'm very pleased to have it as it should be, a long intentional pull of the trigger and then it goes bang!
    Those ILs on newer S&Ws have angered me and do anger me still. I don't know if people are still experiencing problems with them or not but I have taken them down on the 2 newer revolvers I have and have decided that their existence won't stop me from getting a new S&W if I want it badly enough.

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    VIP Member Array wmhawth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHEC724 View Post
    I struggle as to whether I wanna crack open my 637 to do this. I bought it new and never activated the lock. It's smooth as silk as it is now. Do you really think it's that much of a risk?
    I really don't know. It may be that the people who did have problems were ones who had activated the locks before. Surely S&W would sooner or later make corrections on the system if enough complaints came their way. To me it's an easy job to disable them and it gave me peace of mind to do it.

  7. #7
    VIP Member Array gottabkiddin's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WHEC724 View Post
    I struggle as to whether I wanna crack open my 637 to do this. I bought it new and never activated the lock. It's smooth as silk as it is now. Do you really think it's that much of a risk?
    About the best way I can answer that would have to be, Yes. For two reasons mainly. One of which is, I don't know you personally, but I have spoken to you via this forum and have enjoyed the correspondence. So I'd hate to here how someone like yourself gets tagged due to some poor design due to the red tape imposed on gun manufactures by politicians, or some idiot to high up on the food chain at some firearms manufacture.

    Another is, The way I under stand it after reading several post at different gun forums. It seems to be more concentrated to the lighter revolvers in the more powerful calibers. I questioned the fact of how it might pertain to the small airweights, especially the .38s. My conclusion was, why chance it. They do fire the hotter loads, and I like to carry +ps in my guns, so IMO I'm at least touching the threshold of that scenario, so again, why not err on the side of caution and put the firearm how it should be in the first place.

    IMO, it's sorta like the external safeties on the autos with the exception of, it can't easily be disengaged. If in the event you have either locked it for what ever reason and forgot to ready the weapon, or it succumbs to the particular failure shown in the provided links. Either way

    Anyway, I guess it's for each to decide whether or not it's worth the worry. My problem with it was mainly the thought of "Why in the heck put that there in the first place!" Like wmhawth stated, what's wrong with the cable lock, or a good external trigger lock. Why do they have to install one that could under any circumstances lock up on its operator....

    When I bought the two S&W that I have, I was not aware that that could happen. I would have still probably got the same ones anyway to be truthful, but who knows. Now I don't have to worry about it.

    It's pretty easy if you decide to do it, but I just wanted to post it in the event anyone else was thinking about doing it. Have a great weekend!


    Steve
    "He that hath no sword, let him sell his garment, and buy one." Luke 22:36

    "If a law is unjust, a man is not only right to disobey it, he is obligated to do so." Thomas Jefferson

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    VIP Member
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    Thanks. I'll try to sneak it on my 'honey do' list.
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    VIP Member Array BugDude's Avatar
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    I have a IL S&W 442 and I removed my lock for 2 reasons.

    ONE: I discovered I had been carrying it for days with the IL engaged (I was using it intentionally). After that, I never used it again and used a cable lock.
    TWO: because I started experiencing lock-up when rapid firing. I would have to let off the trigger completely, let it reset, then pull again. Fire too fast and it would freeze up. I don't know if the IL was the reason, but after removing the IL, replacing the hammer spring and the trigger return spring with a Wolff set, and polishing the contact points it is now a lighter and smoother shooter with no issues at all.

    So, I'm one of those folks who had an issue and easily resolved it. I would not hesitate to buy another S&W with a lock...and the first thing I would do is remove it. No worries.
    Know Guns, Know Safety, Know Peace.
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    Primary reason I will only purchase older S&W revolvers, no extraneous politically correct parts designed to cause malfunctions.
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  11. #11
    Member Array markush's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BugDude View Post
    I have a IL S&W 442 and I removed my lock for 2 reasons.

    TWO: because I started experiencing lock-up when rapid firing. I would have to let off the trigger completely, let it reset, then pull again. Fire too fast and it would freeze up.
    That right there tells me that...

    You were either out-shooting the rebound of the trigger...attempting to pull the trigger again before the rebound spring/slide could reset the trigger to full forward. Or you were short stroking the trigger...essentially the same as out-shooting the rebound but in this case you yourself physically did not allow the trigger to move fully forward before pulling on it again.

    In either case it had nothing to do with the IL.

    I've done the same thing with the IL disabled.

  12. #12
    VIP Member Array BugDude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by markush View Post
    That right there tells me that...

    You were either out-shooting the rebound of the trigger...attempting to pull the trigger again before the rebound spring/slide could reset the trigger to full forward. Or you were short stroking the trigger...essentially the same as out-shooting the rebound but in this case you yourself physically did not allow the trigger to move fully forward before pulling on it again.

    In either case it had nothing to do with the IL.

    I've done the same thing with the IL disabled.
    That may be true. But now with the lock removed I have no chance of ever carrying the gun again with it being locked and my not being aware. Also, while I was in there I replaced both the trigger return spring and main spring with lighter wolff springs and polished the internals and I now have absolutely NO issues with firing it quickly anymore and it is a much lighter and smoother trigger pull now. All positive results from the modifications. Which changes fixed what issue? I don't know. All I know is it works flawlessly now and I have 100% confidence in the fact that the lock flag can't impede the hammer in any way with it gone.
    Know Guns, Know Safety, Know Peace.
    No Guns, No Safety, No Peace.

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