sp 101 spring ?

This is a discussion on sp 101 spring ? within the General Firearm Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; i want to change out my springs in my ruger sp101 3 in. i want to have a lighter triger pull and also be able ...

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Thread: sp 101 spring ?

  1. #1
    Member Array usmc0811's Avatar
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    sp 101 spring ?

    i want to change out my springs in my ruger sp101 3 in. i want to have a lighter triger pull and also be able to pull back the hammer easier. now im not to shure what i should do, i already ordered the wolf springs and am waiting for them to come in soon. i think the hammer spring is the one located under the grips is that right and by changing that will that make the pull lighter? also i heard people talking about changing the trigger spring, where is that located? i took the gun apart but only see the spring under the grips not another. plus when changing the spring under the grip how do you do it? does anyone have a picture of the spring i cant find and where it is located? thanks for any help you can give. i have been dryfireing it alot as i heard that helps, i am trying to make it light enough so my 11 year old son can pull the trigger when we go target shooting.

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  3. #2
    VIP Member Array Rollo's Avatar
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    The hammer spring (the one in the grip) is what will make the most difference in the trigger pull weight. The trigger return spring tends to make a lot less difference and can cause light primer strikes on some ammo that has hard primers so I recommend keep it stock. The hammer spring is pretty easy to change out. Here a vid on how to disassemble the whole gun.
    ‪Off the rack...Ruger SP101 Disassembly‬‏ - YouTube
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    VIP Member Array Superhouse 15's Avatar
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    Whenever you change a spring for a lighter spring test fire a few boxes of training ammo and your carry loads to make sure they're reliable. If it gives light strikes, change out the hammer spring for stock and keep the Wolff return spring. The action could probably use a little smoothing while you have it apart, but if you're not sure what you're doing, take it to a gunsmith to smooth it up and install the springs.
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    Distinguished Member Array razor02097's Avatar
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    Not sure how different a Ruger is but in a S&W the trigger return spring doesn't have anything to do with the hammer. In a revolver chambered in aa magnum caliber changing the hammer spring can cause light primer strikes so be careful.

    Changing the trigger spring can reduce trigger pull but don't go too far... The spring not only returns the trigger to home but it works the cylinder lock and hammer block.

    Never cut or heat the springs. They need to have preload and cutting them only changes that preload. Aftermarket springs maintain the preload but change the spring rate to make them lighter.

    Changing springs in any gun can affect reliability so be careful.
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  6. #5
    Distinguished Member Array Diddle's Avatar
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    A 10lb spring seems to give a nice blend. My wife's SP-101 had a 14lb spring as OEM. I changed it to 12lb and then to 10lb. I would not recomend the 8lb spring though.
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    Member Array usmc0811's Avatar
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    thanks all for the info im sure it will help me in my decision

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    Senior Member Array boscobeans's Avatar
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    A word of caution when removing the trigger assembly!!!!!

    Be careful to keep it together. All the little internals are held together like a puzzle and can easily come apart. Re-assembly can be a headache and one little spring (the pawl plunger spring) is a super pain. I do it in a large see-through plastic bag to avoid crawling around looking for it if it pops before it is seated into its proper place.

    bosco
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    VIP Member Array Rollo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by boscobeans View Post
    A word of caution when removing the trigger assembly!!!!!

    Be careful to keep it together. All the little internals are held together like a puzzle and can easily come. Re-assembly can be a headache and one little spring (the pawl plunger spring) is a super pain. I do it in a large see through plastic bag to avoid crawling around looking for it if it pops before it is seated into its proper place.

    bosco
    The plastic bag trick is a must!
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    Senior Member Array boscobeans's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rollo View Post
    The plastic bag trick is a must!
    I would like to see how they do it on the Ruger assembly line... I am sure they have a tool or some kind of jig set up to install that little booger.LOL

    bosco

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    Member Array usmc0811's Avatar
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    ya i already went through all that mess what a pain in the a?? i recieved my springs today, i was like a kid on christmas, i used the 9# spring and what a diffrence it made. i will have to go to the range soon to try it out to make sure it hits the primers hard enough.

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    Senior Member Array ICTsnub's Avatar
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    Started with the ten pound, had to go to the twelve for reliability. Still an improvement.
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    VIP Member Array BugDude's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diddle View Post
    A 10lb spring seems to give a nice blend. My wife's SP-101 had a 14lb spring as OEM. I changed it to 12lb and then to 10lb. I would not recomend the 8lb spring though.
    On my SP101 I went with the 10lb wolff hammer spring and left the factory trigger return spring as it was already much lighter than the factory S&W 442 I have. I changed both in my 442. Now they are both smooth shooters and are reliable as well.

    The SP101 hammer spring is pretty easy to replace. There are youtube videos that walk you through it with no problem.
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