High priced lubes and solvents?

High priced lubes and solvents?

This is a discussion on High priced lubes and solvents? within the General Firearm Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; Whats the deal with all this high tech stuff everyone claims is necessary to remove crud, carbon, lead etc? Then the even higher priced lubes ...

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  1. #1
    VIP Member Array mlr1m's Avatar
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    High priced lubes and solvents?

    Whats the deal with all this high tech stuff everyone claims is necessary to remove crud, carbon, lead etc? Then the even higher priced lubes sold in half ounce containers like some fancy perfume sold at one of them Hollywood spas.

    Before I knew it wouldn't work I grew up swiping my moms 3in1 sewing machine oil for normal rust prevention wipe downs. For long storage we did break down an buy a tube of Rig gun grease. Would dilute boiled linseed oil as needed to refurbish the finish of my gun stocks and rub it in sparingly by hand.

    Some of these firearms are over 150 years old and still show no signs of rust. My dilemma is this. Now that I have ate from the tree of knowledge and realize that the stuff I have been using religiously does not work. That at any time now I can expect to see huge hunks of rust start to fall off of them. What should I do?

    Michael


  2. #2
    Member Array stumprat's Avatar
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    Great post!!
    I was also brought up using Hoppes, 3in1 oil, and linseed for the wood. And I have great looking and reliable shooters.

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    Quote Originally Posted by stumprat View Post
    Great post!!
    I was also brought up using Hoppes, 3in1 oil, and linseed for the wood. And I have great looking and reliable shooters.
    Same here, there is a reason these products are still around, they work. I see no reason to buy all the new gee whiz products when the classics continue to do the job as well or better than the newest thing from the chemistís labs.
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    The things you grew up using only works on real guns, like 1911's, steel revolvers, bolt and lever action rifles.

    They won't work on the new designer guns. Rumor has it Hoppes will melt a Glock, at best you'll never get the smell out of it. 3 in 1 oil becomes super glue in an XD, and mix the 2 together on a M&P and they self combust. I won't even mention the things that will happen with an AR, just picture your worst nightmare, then double it!!
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    Member Array Porp's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by archer51 View Post
    The things you grew up using only works on real guns, like 1911's, steel revolvers, bolt and lever action rifles.

    They won't work on the new designer guns. Rumor has it Hoppes will melt a Glock, at best you'll never get the smell out of it. 3 in 1 oil becomes super glue in an XD, and mix the 2 together on a M&P and they self combust. I won't even mention the things that will happen with an AR, just picture your worst nightmare, then double it!!
    OMG! I need to call my wife and tell her to get herself and the kids out of the house ASAP! I have a M&P and an AR that have only seen Hoppe's and 3 in 1!!!!!!!!!

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    MY GOD MAN!!!!!!!! I can't believe you'd be so reckless and endanger your family like that!!!!
    baren likes this.
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    Distinguished Member Array Stubborn's Avatar
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    I have not drank from the "Designer lube Kool-aid" yet. I use Mobil 1 synthetic oil and "white lithium" grease for lubing my weapons. The oil for general lube and rust prevention, and the white lithium for bolts and slides.

    I am however, currently looking for a copper solvent that works. I have been using Hoppes copper solvent, but I am NOT impressed with the way it works.
    What I find on-line is a confusing mix of 4 different products, with no one seeming to be a clear leader. KG-12, Sweets 7.62, Kano Kroil, and Butchs bore shine. Does anyone have 1st hand experience of one of these being the "miracle" copper remover I'm looking for?
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    VIP Member Array First Sgt's Avatar
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    I guess I've gone "modern" in my old age...a little Gunzilla for cleaning and a dab out of a tub of high temp wheel bearing grease, bought at Wally World for lubing. How did I ever survive as a child without a Wally World and being able to order my Gunzilla from DC....whew!!!!
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    Bought some Gunzilla just to see what the hoopla was about. Okay . . . it smells better than most cleaners, but for that price it oughta. Hoppes works fine, 3-in-1 works great, as does bearing grease. Regardless of what I've used, I've never had a cleaner/lubricant caused malfunction, so if it cleaned and lubed with the product of your choice, chances are it will run just fine.
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    Member Array vietnamvet66's Avatar
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    There's just noting like the smell of Hoppes Clener, but once you wiff it, you are hooked forever.........
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    Well, I can't use Hoppes anywhere indoors because my Wife is super solvent sensitive AKA migraines....though I am probably her biggest headache.

    Hoppes drives her bonkers. I can't even open the bottle up.

    The reason that I use WeaponShield these days is that it's very low odor & that bore cleaning & overall crud cleaning (in general) becomes progressively easier with its continued use & most of the other more expensive gun lubes also create a type of molecular bond film that helps prevent copper, fouling, residue, crud from bonding tightly & so it becomes far less work to get the firearm really clean. The WeaponShield is fantastic in this area.
    Members love the GunZilla also & that is because it works better than whatever they were using previously.

    All that is not so important when taking one gun out to shoot but, it sure helps when you've got 7 or 8 firearms to get squeaky clean.

    So...it's really not about "rust prevention" since 3 in One or a coating of sewing machine oil will do just fine.

    When you start getting into the CLPs & the "super lubricity" gun oils then naturally the cost goes up because the formulation is more complex & the advanced additives are fairly expensive.
    LongRider likes this.

  13. #13
    Member Array Gunsmoke16's Avatar
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    Gun Scrubber= Cheap can carb & Choke cleaner (auto parts store) $1.50
    Oil= Lube 1 (big red spray can with blk top has Slick 50...it stops rust completly)...probably about $2.50
    Copper/lead Remover= Hoppes or old military bore cleaner... $3 & a brass scrubber (use a small piece like for lead removal).
    Rust spot remover...#2 pencil eraser, then lead it good, touch up with a blue pen and oil it. Fixed.
    Mag rust preventative= Car wax...it works and the empty drops free like a greased eal.
    Preservative....Cosmoline...if you can find this stufff..it would preserve anything! Use carb/choke remover to get it off.
    White dot sights or outlines= Luminescent fishing lure paint...glows in the dark. $3
    White or bright orange sight touch up= model car paint.
    Lock Tight= keeps screws in place (the kind you can remove-not the permanent one) or drop of nail polish in the hole.
    Emergency holster (the OSS carried .45's using a shoe-string tied, looped around belt, gun hanging inside-it works.
    Sight black? If it's steel sights, competition shooters use a Zippo to black them-reduces glare.
    Wet work? Rain? Condom keeps the barrel sealed and you can shoot right through it....just don't let it melt to the barrel.
    Good luck and happy shooting.
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    VIP Member Array Doghandler's Avatar
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    I'm certainly willing to pay more if it's a multipurpose product.

    http://www.hulu.com/watch/61320/satu...mmer-floor-wax
    atctimmy and msgt/ret like this.
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  15. #15
    Member Array stumprat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vietnamvet66 View Post
    There's just noting like the smell of Hoppes Clener, but once you wiff it, you are hooked forever.........
    My entire family agrees. My daughter says that smell makes her home sick.

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