Guide Rod Springs For 5" 1911
This is a discussion on Guide Rod Springs For 5" 1911 within the General Firearm Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; I have a Springfeild 1911A1. I read alot here about changing springs out for something other then what was provided from the manufacturer. Dose not ...
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Post By gasmitty
March 27th, 2012 08:43 PM
Guide Rod Springs For 5" 1911
I have a Springfeild 1911A1. I read alot here about changing springs out for something other then what was provided from the manufacturer. Dose not give much info with manual provided. The pistol is still very tight even with 1000+rds through it. Runs great no problems. Was wondering if I changed the spring would that make it easier to rack the slide. Also very difficult to release the slide using just my thumb. What would you recommend and would changing affect performance?
March 27th, 2012 09:34 PM
Then why change anything?
Originally Posted by tclance
With a lighter weight spring, probably, it could also adversely effect reliability too.
Was wondering if I changed the spring would that make it easier to rack the slide.
That is a matter of magazine spring stiffness, again, if the pistol is 100%, why change anything, learn to release the slide using the "sling-shot" method.
Also very difficult to release the slide using just my thumb.
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March 27th, 2012 09:41 PM
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March 29th, 2012 11:06 PM
The standard spring weight for a 5" gun is 16# for hardball ammo. It should be changed about 1,500 rounds in. You can go down to a 14# or lighter spring if you are shooting paper at 50' with super light loads but the battery pressure becomes too light for SD rounds IMO and going over 18# "can" cause some frame battering.
The best way to release the slide is to slingshot it. This takes the recoil spring pressure off the slide stop detent allowing it to drop down as long as there are rounds in the mag.
If you call Springfield they will tell you what they recommend but the standard springs from Wolff Gunsprings will work very well.
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March 30th, 2012 12:10 AM
Here's some rough guidance: If your empty cases barely dribble out of the gun, your spring is too heavy; if it throws 'em into the next county, the spring is too light.
I never had to change a spring on a full-size 1911 (.45) at less than 3000 rounds or so, and even then it wasn't because of misbehavior, just PM. The shorter 1911s (Commander and Officers Model) beat up the springs more so they need to be changed more frequently.
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March 30th, 2012 12:26 AM
Mil-spec is around 18lbs. You ought to work with my SIG at 20lbs standard. How often you need to rack the slide anyway?
March 30th, 2012 08:29 AM
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March 30th, 2012 09:50 AM
I fooled around changing springs in my 10mm Glocks. turned them into jam o matics
Back to stock.
March 30th, 2012 10:42 AM
I played with this a lot a while back.
A 16lb spring was working fine, until I got to some handloads I did slightly out-of-spec. Failure to go into full battery on one or two of them. Since these are cast flat points I use for critter control, I wanted something a bit stronger. Besides, I like my 21lb mainspring!
The 18.5lb spring messed me up on the follow-ups. I used to run 18.5lb springs all the time, but I've practiced enough by now that I notice when I'm recovering from a downward dip to to too-fast slide return.
Long story short, I've ended up with a 17.5lb progressive spring. I like the energy it has to strip the round from my Wilson #47, 7rnd mags with Tripp springs and followers. However, it doesn't speed up again after stripping the round and closes fairly gently.
Progressive springs are usually for comp guns to keep them from dipping; I find that I like them, too, for carry, in high-ride, non-comp guns.
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