Suggestions for selling a gun on internet?
This is a discussion on Suggestions for selling a gun on internet? within the General Firearm Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; I have never posted or sold gun on internet and I am somewhat afraid to try. Any and all advice would be appreciated? Sites I ...
May 9th, 2013 12:25 PM
Suggestions for selling a gun on internet?
I have never posted or sold gun on internet and I am somewhat afraid to try. Any and all advice would be appreciated? Sites I may want to use, the do's and don'ts of selling online. I several AR's and thought I may sell a DPMS while prices are still OK on them..
May 9th, 2013 12:37 PM
There are pros and cons for me to all of them. But the leading workplace efficiency reduction site for me is Armslist. It's basically gun classifieds, not auction based. I like the fact that you can easily buy, sell & trade within your own state or even local area. Be specific about your terms of sale, especially if you're accepting trades, otherwise people will offer you car stereos, dirt bikes, etc. I've found good deals on Armslist even though all the craziness, but there still are people trying to used Glocks for $800 right above an ad from a dealer selling the same gun for $500. Good luck!
May 9th, 2013 12:50 PM
Probably the simplest is to find a discussion forum you're comfortable with, then post in the Buy/Sell area there. DefensiveCarry has one.
Originally Posted by burttrans
I've used the GunBroker.com service quite a bit, both for purchases and sales of handguns, rifles and related gear. Works fairly well. Pricing might be somewhat different than, say, a smaller forum-related posting, but it gets high visibility.
Even if you don't choose to actually use GunBroker for a purchase or sale, its worth creating an account there and checking out their Buyer and Seller policies, to get a feel for both (a) how it all works and (b) what protections and circumspection you should consider in any such transaction.
Basically, what I've done on a typical GunBroker sale is this:
- Prep my gun for sale, including cleaning and lubricating it well, fixing any minor and easily-corrected issues, then taking a series of photos from all angles (including pics that clearly show any blems or issues the buyer should be aware of). With the photos, I edit/crop them for maximum utility on a classified ads site (with respect to size, clarity, etc).
- Contact my local gun shop (FFL) whom I am going to use for the transfer. Ensure they're willing to do the transfer soon.
- Determine the price I want for the gun, the minimum price I'll accept (if on an auction), the starting bid point. For example, a Glock 19 9mm in VG shape with 4 mags might be a ~$650 item, I'd be willing to accept $525. So, I would want to create an ad with a $525 starting bid, but with no "reserve" price beyond that. In another example, I might well not care about a minimum, believing I'll get best play on the ad if I set a "no reserve" auction and let 'er rip. Either works fine, so long as you're comfortable with what that means.
- Post a classified ad on GunBroker, with a clear and basic title, description of the item and its condition, as well as the various photos I've taken. Specify the method of payment I'll accept (ie, typically USPS money order or major bank certified check); method of shipment and cost. Set the duration time for the auction (ie, 1-day, 20-day, whatever). Set whether the auction should automatically renew itself, if no bidder wins the auction. BTW, GB charges a fee for posting such ads, and takes a percentage of the sale. (Be aware of that, from the Seller's Guide on GB.)
- Wait for potential buyers to contact me. Be forthright with all answers about the gun, ensuring the buyer knows about all aspects/blems before hand, including my specific experiences (ie shooting log) with the gun, what ammo it likes, etc.
- When the buyer has won the auction or the bid has been accepted, communicate with the buyer to arrange payment in advance, arrange which FFL shops will be involved with the transfer, etc.
- When payment has been received, arrange to get my packaged item over to my FFL shop for the transaction. Pay the FFL shop the fee for transfer/shipment, get the tracking number of the shipment, then communicate to the buyer its on its way.
- Speak briefly with the buyer after the product has arrived, to confirm all's well.
Beyond that, I can't imagine you need to do anything. Often, I do less. But I never use GunBroker without sending the item from my FFL shop to another FFL shop. And I never complete a sale without first speaking with the buyer before we deal with payment/transfer.
Of course, that's only GunBroker stuff. I've done numerous face-to-face transactions outside any auction-type site such as GunBroker. For those, since a face-to-face meeting is involved, there are certain steps I take to protect against being fleeced or harmed during the transaction. But basically I still ensure I'm dealing with someone who's legit (ie, has a CHL), pays in funds that won't "bounce," and where the transfer transaction is done in a spot where we're both safe (ie, public neutral ground, or at a local range or shop).
May 9th, 2013 04:47 PM
When payment has been received, arrange to get my packaged item over to my FFL shop for the transaction. Pay the FFL shop the fee for transfer/shipment, get the tracking number of the shipment, then communicate to the buyer its on its way.
Watch out for fraudulent money orders. Very real looking bank checks and odd location money orders can be easily counterfeited these days. Some are good enough to even fool your bank. If it ultimately turns out to be bogus - you are responsible and will need to make it good with your bank AKA pay back the $$$ - A USPS Postal MO is best.
CASH it first. I would not accept a personal check from a total unknown living out of state.
Liberty Over Tyranny Μολὼν λαβέ
May 9th, 2013 05:34 PM
Yes, for all the reasons you mention.
Originally Posted by QKShooter
BTW, I can't recall ever sending anything until the day after the MO was cashed at my bank. Works fairly well. No guarantees, still, but it's about the best we can do short of demanding C-notes, which presents its own risks.