Break-free CLP?

This is a discussion on Break-free CLP? within the General Firearm Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; So I've tried my darndest to get my Walther P22 as clean as it was from the factory, but it just seems that no matter ...

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Thread: Break-free CLP?

  1. #1
    Member Array General Geoff's Avatar
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    Break-free CLP?

    So I've tried my darndest to get my Walther P22 as clean as it was from the factory, but it just seems that no matter what I do, residual powder goo remains once the powder solvent dries. Right now the two fluids I use for firearms cleaning are (1) Hoppes #9 powder solvent, and (2) milsurp light weapons oil. All my centerfire guns clean up really well with just a bit of #9, a toothbrush and some patches (with some exceptions - I'll get to that later). But the P22 just gets caked with powder residue, and I can't seem to get it all off, even after an hours' worth of scrubbing with #9. It appears to be clean, but then when I let it dry, the residue reappears.

    So this brings me to the title of this post, Break-free CLP. I understand that it's what the military issues for all purposes pertaining to firearm maintenence. Do you think this stuff will work where Hoppes #9 has failed?

    Also, after I broke in my M1A, I cleaned the action, chamber and barrel well enough, but the gas piston seems to have an ultrathin layer of carbon stuck on it that I can't get off! It's smooth and shiny, but discoloured from the carbon. Would CLP also help eliminate this? On a side-note, would I be able to skip the light weapons oil application when using CLP, since it is also a lubricant? Keep in mind for any heavy-wear points (like the M1A rotating bolt), I use molybdenum grease, and would continue to do so. I'm more concerned with the slide rails of my pistols, to which I occasionally apply a light coating of oil.

    Thanks for any help/info/advice!
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  3. #2
    Distinguished Member Array lowflyer's Avatar
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    CLP is all I have ever used to clean firearms. It is what I was issued in the AF. I have never had problems with it.
    Whatever doesn't kill you postpones the inevitable.

  4. #3
    Member Array General Geoff's Avatar
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    Oh, and almost forgot to ask; is CLP safe to use on polymer and fiberglass?
    Discretion is the better part of valour; and a virtue beyond reproach.
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    I like CLP but use it most for lube aspects and ... on a well impregnated rag - a wipe over externals for blued guns.

    The .22 crud problem tho is an old one and no - #9 does not really do a number - neither do many other things IMO. I have resorted to making a small heat treated aluminum tool for scraping some deposits off my Ruger 22/45 and Marlin rifle.

    I actually won't worry too much about this thin carbon-like residue you mention - it does not IMO prejudice function like the lumps of grease/burned powder crud can. .22 ammo is messy - that's a fact.

    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    is CLP safe to use on polymer and fiberglass?
    From my experience yes but - always test on a hidden area before using, just to be sure. Apply a small dab and leave 24 hours - clean/wipe off and inspect.
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    Member Array General Geoff's Avatar
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    Yeah, I don't imagine the carbon left on the gas piston for the M1A will cause any problems, so long as I keep it from developing large deposits of it.

    But with the P22, the powder **** does impede function. The stuff is packed in underneath the slide lock, and even after getting plenty of solvent in there, it just keeps gumming back up. As such, the weapon fails to lock the slide back on the last shot in a magazine, and now it's occasionally failing to feed ammunition. I'm pretty sure both problems are because of the inescapable residue.

    I'll take a picture of the weapon if you'd like.
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    Senior Member Array darkvibe's Avatar
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    I get CLP on my polymer frames. Never had an issue. No idea about fiberglass though.

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    Well - indeed the real gummy crud is bad news - even on my 22/45 can stop it going into battery. I do still find that the aluminum scraper gets me out of much trouble.

    Maybe sometimes a detail strip is called for - might be only way.
    Chris - P95
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    VIP Member Array ccw9mm's Avatar
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    IMO, there isn't a chemical made that can "eat" all powder, copper, lead residues. The best stuff out there merely breaks up the goo, such that it can be wiped out. CLP is a good one, so I'm of the opinion that if anything still comes out of the gun, then I haven't wiped it out enough. Wipey-wipey. Still not good enough? Another blast of CLP; wait 5mins; then wipey-wipey. Repeat. Once clean, then it's done.

    One of the great "magic" cloths made in the past 20yrs has been microfiber. A good one can pick up those residues where the "shop towel" garbage misses it. After I've wiped the gun down with patches and a shop towel, it generally gets a second round with the microfiber treatment. Haven't left a gun dirty, yet, since switching to them. Spendy, but combined with CLP it's all but guaranteed to leave the surface clean enough to eat from (were you so inclined).
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    VIP Member Array peacefuljeffrey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by General Geoff View Post
    Oh, and almost forgot to ask; is CLP safe to use on polymer and fiberglass?
    I can't answer about fiberglass, but heck yes it's fine for polymer. The whole deal with polymer is that it's impervious to just about any chemical you can throw at it, right? Anyway, my Glock has never suffered from CLP.

    I use Hoppe's #9 and CLP exclusively to clean my guns. I have an AR15 that was never lubed with anything other than CLP, and it's fine. (Granted, it is not a high-round-count gun.)

    I wouldn't even know where to get "molybdenum grease"!

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    General Geoff;

    As long as the gas piston on the M1a is cleaned normally, you can hear it "move" back and forth in the gas cylinder when you tip the barrel of the rifle up, then down again, the piston will function reliably as designed.

    If you continue to worry about the piston, there are aftermarket companies making them from different materials that solve the problem further. I'd suggest if you want advice on the M1a, go here:

    http://www.m-14forum.com/upload/

    The members there literally live and breath these rifles. They are always willing to help with advice and experience.

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    Oh, and almost forgot to ask; is CLP safe to use on polymer and fiberglass?

    Quite Safe! AKA No Problem at all.

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    For my 22 pistols and for a once a year complete clean on all of my weapons, I use a small parts cleaner that has a nozzle to attach a brush to and use dry cleaning solvent. I used to use the NRA cleaning solution mix "red cleaner" and it worked well too. You can get a small table top parts cleaner for $50-$60 from harbor freight that is the perfect size for pistols.

    Gets the crud out and gets all of the excess oils off. Just be aware that when you use dry cleaning solvent, you must lube your weapons well when finished. I use CLP (the teflon version) for the lube.

    The formula for the NRA red cleaner is on the NRA website. Do a search on the site.
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    Distinguished Member Array dimmak's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AzQkr View Post
    General Geoff;

    http://www.m-14forum.com/upload/

    The members there literally live and breathe these rifles. They are always willing to help with advice and experience.

    Brownie

    100% agreed....
    If your dont get that weapon squared away, they will have you "standing tall before the man!"..... LOL
    Good group of guys there....
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  15. #14
    Member Array General Geoff's Avatar
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    I'm already a member there, but the problem is that I can't post URLs or pictures, and I tried posting a topic in the M14 forum, but it doesn't appear to have shown up.
    Discretion is the better part of valour; and a virtue beyond reproach.
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