Stripping metal?

Stripping metal?

This is a discussion on Stripping metal? within the General Firearm Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; I sem to be full of questions right now. Let's say I wanted to blue a slide. Brownnels has a bake on lacquer. Can I ...

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Thread: Stripping metal?

  1. #1
    Member Array Argus's Avatar
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    Stripping metal?

    I sem to be full of questions right now. Let's say I wanted to blue a slide. Brownnels has a bake on lacquer. Can I strip the metal by hand?


  2. #2
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    If you want to remove the existing blue from a slide then you use an acid bath. A dip in hydrochloric will quickly strip a blue firearm down to bare metal. It's a hardware store item also known as Muriatic or brick cleaning acid.

    If you are taliking about the tinted bake on "Blue Black" spray lacquer that looks like blueing...it does not hold up very well at all.

    You can use some Cold Blue chemical solutions to reblue but, those are not usually top coated with anything.

    The best spray bake on finish that can be done at home is probably Dura~coat.

    You cannot do HOT BLUE at home without getting into some serious necessary equipment.

    To do one slide...I would probably send it out and have it done.
    It WILL be cheaper in the long run even with the Dura~coat unless you already have a compressor and and airbrush and even then - you should Parkerize the slide first so that adds up also.
    Even though you CAN do Parkerizing at home. By the time you buy the Dura~coat and the Parkerizing solution and the Dura~coat thinner and pay for the shipping plus factoring in your time you'll be way over the cost of just having sent it out.

    You will probably be Much Happier if you only have one slide to do to have it professionally done.
    It would not be that expensive and you can send it out and get it back through regular mail.

    I'd send it out and have it Dura~coated. If you shop around you can find somebody to do a one color Dura~coat on a stripped slide for around $50.00
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    Member Array cpmiv's Avatar
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    I'll second Duracoat. I've done it on a couple of firearms and it's not that hard.
    There are over 550 million firearms in worldwide circulation. That's one firearm for every twelve people on the planet. The only question is: How do we arm the other 11? (Yuri Orlov [Nicolas Cage] Lord of War)

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    Member Array Argus's Avatar
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    Thanks for the reply. What I was going to do was a matte black. Finnish. Yeah I know it would be cheaper, but I like to tinker. I didn't know if you could get it all stripped down, with out bead blasting.

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    VIP Member Array Redneck Repairs's Avatar
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    Personaly i like phosphoric acid to strip blueing , but to each their own .

    Argus most all my finishing material is in this directory.. take a look and snag what you need/want .

    http://abcyber.org/bob/finish/

    the blind hog file is home hot blueing material , most of the rest deals with parkerising , and yes you can get a dark color with parkerising and it is a lot easier to do at home .
    Make sure you get full value out of today , Do something worthwhile, because what you do today will cost you one day off the rest of your life .
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    VIP Member Array Rob72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Argus View Post
    Thanks for the reply. What I was going to do was a matte black. Finnish. Yeah I know it would be cheaper, but I like to tinker. I didn't know if you could get it all stripped down, with out bead blasting.
    You're fine with brake cleaner and cooking residue off at 200 degrees overnight, in your oven. Repeat with one more spray down and bake, if you see dark spots around joints. The purpose of beadblasting is to provide a rough surface for the finish to adhere. You don't need to strip with bluing or parkerizing, though, again, you may see more wear with the bluing, without balsting, since the metal surface is smooth to start.

  7. #7
    Senior Member Array purple88yj's Avatar
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    Acids work very well for removing the bluing, as has been mentioned. It will not damage the metal in the slide, but I would strongly recommend stripping the slide bare, no springs, extractors or firing pin. If the sights are plastic or polymer, remove them also.
    "A simple way to take measure of a country is to look at how many want in ... And how many want out." British Prime Minister Tony Blair

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    Absolutely no acid on gun springs springs. It can make them break. break.
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    Member Array Argus's Avatar
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    Thanks for the help all. This is the deal. I have a Llama MaxI. and I found a used slide for it. (really cheap) It's stripped down, so I fiqured I'd re-finish it. To be honest, I didn't want to mention the Llama thing for fear of grtting bashed.

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    We don't bash other members here.
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  11. #11
    Member Array Argus's Avatar
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    Thanks, Not the member (I'm a great guy ) Just the gun

  12. #12
    VIP Member Array Redneck Repairs's Avatar
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    Personally i think a gun such as a llama would be ideal as a " first project gun ", Its cheap enough your not afraid to try since a failure would not cost as much as say on a colt , sig , hk , ect . The only way to build skills is to do , and you cant " do" if you price yourself out of trying lol .
    Make sure you get full value out of today , Do something worthwhile, because what you do today will cost you one day off the rest of your life .
    We only begin to understand folks after we stop and think .

    Criminals are looking for victims, not opponents.

  13. #13
    Member Array Argus's Avatar
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    So true, That's why when I try a new woodworking project. I'll use MDF first.

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    Member Array MD_Willington's Avatar
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    if you know some guys doing an AK build party in your area ask them if you can show up, sometimes they will have a hot bluing & home phosphating setup already running.

  15. #15
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    The easiest and least expensive black finish that you could put on it would be black Parkerizing.
    Then you can (of course) always put a top coat of Duracoat over that or just hot oil the Parkerizing..
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