This is a discussion on Cleaning (I must not be that good) within the General Firearm Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; Originally Posted by frankmako if you shoot cast lead bullets get yourself a lewis deleader. one of the best things made to get the lead ...
When you’re wounded and left on Afghanistan’s plains,
And the women come out to cut up what remains,
Just roll to your rifle and blow out your brains,
And go to your God like a soldier.
I got some hoppes foaming bore cleaner. Spray in , wait 5 minutes and it seems to do a good job on build up.
"In matters of style, swim with the current; in matters of principle, stand like a rock." Thomas Jefferson
Nemo Me Impune Lacesset
I was worried about this myself, but folks keep telling me that the copper is much softer than barrel and much harder than the lead. Not something I do every cleaning, though.Before going with a scouring pad (a little too abraisive in my opinion), start with J&B (go light on it), run a bronze brush through a few times, rinse the barrel with either Birchwood Casey Bore Scrubber or choride-free brake cleaner (brake cleaner is cheaper, but more corrosive on your hands, use chem gloves).
What Would Gumby Do?
I got a good suggestion from an expert and gun store owner. Save your old bore brushes. Wrap your saturated swabs around them. They will give an even contact around the entire circumference of the barrel.
Once, I had to clean a gun, not mine, so dirty that I attached a bronze cleaning brush--and extension shafts, of course-- to an electric drill. I saturated the brush with bore cleaner I worked it at a low speed. This worked. However, if you try it, you try it at completely your own risk.
NRA 2AF IDPA
Tactical Pistol Instructor
I've used JB Cleaner for years. The naysayers all said it would "ruin the barrel." I first used it on my Anschutz 1407 International Match Rifle at Camp Perry. After 75,000 rounds, I still won matches. I then used it to clean my duty S&W 586. Sheriff's Office - issued range ammo is the dirtiest, nastiest, most deplorable cast .38 on the planet. JB cleaned it and accuracy/parts remained unaffected. I now use it on everything and bet my life on my pistols. Run one JB coated patch through (scrubbing motion as if you were using a brush). Follow with a BUNCH of clean patches. Just be patient as you will take (what seems) an eternity to finish with clean patches.
Don't use it every time, but once every so often will not hurt your investment and it will solve your problem.
BE PREPARED - Noah didn't build the Ark when it was raining!
Si vis pacem, para bellum
NRA Life Member
Hoppes also makes a product specifically formulated to remove lead fouling. I haven't used it, but it might help. The barrel of my XD9 had some copper fouling in it, so I used the Break Free foam copper remover. It worked well, and the barrel is much cleaner now.
If it is lead scrub the barrel [ out of the gun ] with wd-40 and a brass brush. You will see lead sludge come out of it.
use a gun cleaning brush with some cleaner to clean the barrel of the gun.then use a cotton patch to clean it to.
I care for range rentals and this stuff will clean anything, no matter how funky. And it works efficiently (Translation, you don't have to do a lot of work).
A few posters said if you don't want to clean lead fouling, don't shoot lead. All you really have to do is make sure the bullets are the right size (diameter) and made of quality hard cast lead.
At the range all I ever shoot in my .45 is lead, and I have no leading problems. Firing a few hundred FMJs through the gun should help smooth over any machine marks left by the factory, which will also help prevent deposits.
To remove leading (which BTW is caused by undersized bullets, or too soft of an alloy) all you need is a dry copper bristle brush. If the bristles wear down and don't do as good of a job anymore, wrap some Chore Boy around it. Scrub it for a minute or so dry, then run a wet patch through the bore, followed by a dry patch. That should leave your bore "clean enough" for anything you need to do with it.
Ok, sports fans, I have read all the posts, and I have tried all of those solvents, and the only one that has really ever worked for me on both copper and lead is a product called RB-17. here is the link to their site:
Back when i was heavily into IPSC shooting, I ran across a distributor who gave me a sample to try. I just couldn't believe the results. the bore cleaner not only removes copper and lead, but you can also use it to remove small rust deposits on the gun without harming the finish, even blueing. In promise that it will leave a clean bore very quickly. Here is my method:
1) I will use break free to clean the throat area of the barrel of powder deposits using a patch.
2) I will use a bronze brush dipped halfway into RB-17; RB-17 is a green gel, so it sticks to the brush and distributes very evenly. I will run the brush through the bore 10 times and then change to running a patch through the bore; I don't use a conventional patch holder, but a cleaning jag; this is the secret to really cleaning the lands in a barrels' rifling where most of the fouling resides. I will run the first dry patch through the barrel, the cleaning jag seating the patch into the lands tightly. The patch will come out black as coal. I will run a second dry patch through to catch any residue I missed; The sole purpose of this is to get all of the powder fouling and jacket particles clear of the barrel for the second application of RB-17.
3) I will then clean the brush, then dip it once again halfway into RB-17 and brush the bore again about 10 passes. Then I will set the barrel aside with the RB-17 gel in there, which will immediately begin dissolving all of the lead and copper deposits. I will usually clean the rest of the gun while this takes place.
4) After cleaning the rest of the gun, go ahead and run another patch through the barrel and watch all of the blue color (from the dissolved copper, black for the lead) appear on the patch. Again, run a dry patch to clean up any excess, then look in your bore with a bore light, and you will see a clean bore.
5) I discovered this next practice from my gunsmith years ago when I shot an IPSC open gun. After your clean bore is nice and dry, take a patch and coat it liberally with Flitz metal polish and run the patch through with a cleaning jag until it is completely black. The take the patch off, turn it around, place it back on the jag and run it through the bore again until it is black.
6) After this, take a patch soaked in RB-17 and run it through the bore to remove any remaining flitz from the bore, then take your bore light and look again; you will see a mirror finish in your barrel. There are 2 benefits to using flitz, that I have verified.First, it really removes any fouling left over from the RB-17, which is little to none. Second, the Flitz polishes the bore, reducing friction and actually increasing the velocity of your load. I proved this on my open gun, documenting an average 30-50 fps gain in muzzle velocity. Of course, you have to use this stuff every time you clean the bore to reap the benefit.
So there it is, I hope some folks find this information useful....
"Guard with jealous attention the public liberty. Suspect everyone who approaches that jewel. Unfortunately, nothing will preserve it but downright force. Whenever you give up that force, you are inevitably ruined". - Patrick Henry
Thanks for all the suggestions off to cleaning this evening.
NRA Certified Instructor
Primary carry guns: Glock 23, SA Loaded Custom LW Micro .45, S&W Model 10
If those don't work: BM/DPMS CAR-15 custom, Rem. 11-87 3.5-inch
I am new here, but Blue Wonder removed gunk from my barrel I did not even know was there. I am using their entire cleaning package now and love it. Very little to no smell. I can clean inside now!