Built in Gun Safe

This is a discussion on Built in Gun Safe within the General Firearm Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; Check the "biggies" in the industry. American Security makes doors for built-in, walk-in safes. So does Graffunder, a smaller mfr. If you make it a ...

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Thread: Built in Gun Safe

  1. #16
    VIP Member Array ccw9mm's Avatar
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    Check the "biggies" in the industry. American Security makes doors for built-in, walk-in safes. So does Graffunder, a smaller mfr. If you make it a real bunker, with hardened, reinforced concrete and plates to withstand blasting, then put a quality door on the opening, you've got a good, safe area for such a large collection. The room can be as large, then, as you design it, with the secure door being a normal door's size.
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  3. #17
    Member Array JCook5003's Avatar
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    Wow thanks for all the input I have seen the ICF's before and considered using them to build my home but was concerned about the price SonOfASniper do you have expierence with ICF construction so you can share some more insight here?

    Also I guess I was a little misleading I dont really want to build a bunker, just a safe place to store my guns safely and with security, I figured if it was built right it could also double as a safe place to go in the event of a natural disaster (think tornado) or a man made disaster I live with 1/2 mile of the Radford Army Ammunition Plant think manufacturing of rockets and TNT.........

    Thanks guys keep it coming

  4. #18
    VIP Member Array goldshellback's Avatar
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    +1 on the addition of electricty, phone, and plumbing. A safe room is just that....a "safe" room. It may be needed for more than just safely storing firearms and valuables.
    "Just getting a concealed carry permit means you haven't commited a crime yet. CCP holders commit crimes." Daniel Vice, senior attorney for the Brady Campaign to Prevent Gun Violence, quoted on Fox & Friends, 8 Jul, 2008

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  5. #19
    Senior Member Array Daddy Warcrimes's Avatar
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    Locking steel gun racks anchored to the floor. If you don't have the racks or can't get them right now, at least have anchors set in to the floor for later improvements.

    Are you going to run heat and AC in it? You'll need some type of reinforce grate else it'll be a weak point.

    You also may want to place something like electrical conduit in the walls for unforeseen future upgrades (computer network, cable TV or the like). These can be plugged up when not in use.

    Good lighting and emergency backup lights. You're probably not going to have a lot of natural light in your vault. Well lit for when you're working in there and battery backups for safety.

    Doorbell. Concrete insulates pretty well so you might want an additional chime to sound while you're in there.

    Solvent tank, for cleaning.

    Computer with internet (to find technical information, or maintain records)

    Reloading press. Good a place as any to have it.

    Stereo.

    Mini-fridge.

    The combination of some of the above may require a larger than 13x13 space.
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  6. #20
    Distinguished Member Array SonofASniper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCook5003 View Post
    Wow thanks for all the input I have seen the ICF's before and considered using them to build my home but was concerned about the price SonOfASniper do you have expierence with ICF construction so you can share some more insight here?
    Yes, I am an installer for Polysteel.

    Price comparison with polysteel ICF's vs. conventional construction is 4% higher on the national average. However, more often than not, the price to build with it is actually lower than conventional.

    The big differences with polysteel is that it is allready pre-furred out with steel stud strips instead of plastic. This means no additional furring/framing has to be done in order to finish off with your siding, sheetrock, cabinets, etc. of choice. The pull strenth of steel vs. plastic is around 400#'s vs. 30#'s. This translates in the end to huge material and labor savings over other ICF's and cinder block.

    Another difference with polysteel is that they offer a "waffle pattern" design that saves about 25% concrete over conventional full thickness blocks. It is also a stronger design because you reduce the weight of the building by a quarter with only a 4% loss in strength compared to full thickness blocks.

    Your energy savings are huge. The true UL listed R value of the block filled with concrete is only R-22. However, the concrete cores utilize geo-thermal heating and cooling through ground contact. The result is that a properly constructed house acts more like an R value of 60+.

    They are also extremely resistant to natural disaster (i.e. hurricanes), have a 4 hour fire rating, and are insect/rott resistant.

    I could go on and on... but if you havn't looked at polysteel ICF's you should study them closely. PM me for more questions.

    Now, back to your original thread programming.
    I will support gun control when you can guarantee all guns are removed from this planet. That includes military and law enforcement. When you can accomplish that, then I will be the last person to lay down my gun. Then I will carry the weapon that replaces the gun.

  7. #21
    Member Array ttpete's Avatar
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    It would seem to me that poured concrete would be a lot cheaper than laying block and then having to install rebar and pour the block full anyway. Pouring could be done in less time, and I think the concrete would be cheaper than block.
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  8. #22
    VIP Member Array BigEFan's Avatar
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    You know there are now several cold war missle silos in private hands. Maybe that is what you need.

    Seriously, why not just have a commercial bank vault company do the work for you. The interior setup needs to be different but the structural design would work perfect.
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  9. #23
    New Member Array swerdnabor's Avatar
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    A subject that I've thought alot about. LastManOut has the best all-around plan in my opinon but it all comes down to what you want to get out of the room and how much you're willing to put into it. Time/money...mostly money. Personally I think the value of conceled can't be overstated. Above ground it is hard to hide a 13x13 room but if you can at least disguise the entrence I think I would. One other thought...you may want to wire in a cell phone antenna extention where the antenna is outside the room but has a wire inside ti plug into. That should give you good reception and communication if you lose your land lines. Eager to hear more thoughts on this subject as I am in the design stages for my new house and will be incorperating a bunker room. PS Make sure the door swings in incase of storm debris. A room that is hard to get into is also hard to get out of.

  10. #24
    Member Array LastManOut's Avatar
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    I learned from a 911 call center operator that if an old cell phone, one that is no longer "in-service" is kept charged, it can still be used for emergency (911) calls. Just wire in the antennae per swerdnabor's suggestion.

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