1911sc frame wear
Should i be worried?
The frame wear as you can see is rough on this side other side is barely any wear front and rear corner only .. If you run a finger or nail over the rail you can feels it what say ye... Im about rady to dump this all ready im not impressed
Never had a S&W but IMO,Colts and Kimbers would not worry me if I saw that. Looks to be the bluing wearing off. To me that is part of the break in process. I put a very tiny speck of grease right where your bluing is wearing on my weapons. This is an opinion by someone that is not an authority on the subject. ?? are the wear marks smooth or does it feel like there are very small gouges down the rails??(Is the slide chattering when moving to the rear?)-------
you can feel gouges i normaly grease the whole rail's but its only on one side ..
now also rember this is a alum frame 1911.. Not my first alloy framed pistol but first 1911 i know my ruger p-90 doesnt have marks like this
Bud - coupla guys with R9's have a slight concern over this sorta thing - and I will be waiting to hear factory report.
I do think tho some wear is all but inevitable with steel running on alloy. How much is acceptable, or not - is the hard thing to decide. I guess what matters most is not just a change of appearance but - whether material is actually being lost - and so beginning a tendency to a poorer and slacker fit.
What is your round count approx right now?
Any time you have abnormal wear or a specific area of wear on a softer frame...something opposite on the harder slide is causing it.
You need to check the rails on your slide & look for that rough/sharp area. You need to look for the "positive raised area" on the slide that is creating the "negative wear area" on the frame & carefully & lightly knock that off.
On the plus side usually what is causing a "local wear area" will usually wear it to a certain depth & then it will stop and not be able to wear it anymore.
Usually, what I have always done in the past with my Alloy frame pistols is carefully look at & Really Examine the Slide Rails & groove under magnification & check for razor sharp edges, burrs, rough chatter machine marks & high spots & then just LIGHTLY smooth that area up or...knock the offending burr off.
Remember not to "pretty it up" too much or you'll create slide to frame slop.
Degrease the slide & toothbrush out the slide rail groove & see if you can spot exactly what is causing that.
If it's not getting any worse then you can probably ignore it.
Remember that with an semi~auto chambered in 45acp you have nearly twice as much "frame rail" than you really need for your pistol to safely function.
Looking at your photos....what would be causing your wear...would be located on the bottom flat inside the slide channel or a sharp area or a burr up toward the front of that channel.
I'll post a picture or two tomorrow ~ Look for those pictures to be posted here by tomorrow evening.
P95 maybe 500 rounds QK thats what i was thinking but i really dont see or feel anything rough in the slide channnel maybe ill lightly stone the slide
QK is spot on - re pos' and neg'. Indeed to see a localized wear on the aluminum must in theory have a concommitant portion of the steel slide causing it. May certainly be something very monor but an inconsistency nonetheless.
If all is well then I'd expect to just see uniform wear which gradually removes any anodic film but not too much more. I guess longevity of steel/aluminum combinations can never really match that of steel on steel, even when lube is optimal.
We shall see how it does maybe this one will be going away i am going to pick up a lightweight springfield too so we shall see how they do with lifetime warrentys on both of them i guess it dont matter
Gun makers REALLY SHOULD make an EXTRA ATTEMPT to do finer and more careful machine work and additional deburring on steel slides that are to be "Mated" to softer alloy frames.
I guess that would be expecting too much? :mad:
A hard anodized Aluminum Alloy frame or a Scandium frame would show VERY LITTLE wear If the slide were smoothly machined & did not act like a cheese grater on the frame every time the slide cycled.
My older SIG/BROWNING BDA .45 does not even have the hard coat anodize worn off the frame rails after many thousands of rounds.
Of course...since it was my main carry gun for years the frame/slide was always kept lightly greased & Tefloned.
But, doggoneit the slide rails & groove on that SIG are so smoothly machined that they look almost highly polished.
Those were the days my friends when high quality guns had a bit of careful "hand work" done to them to "make them right" before they made their journey to the dealers shelf.
QK your right whats funny is my 350$ Ruger doesnt eat up the alloy frame either
Ya Know Bud
That extra 10 or 15 minutes per firearm would be all the time it would take for most factory related problems to be spotted & solved before a firearm left the line.
As i posted on another forum right now Manufactures dont care... As ive said im a repair tech and right now its cheeper for them to build something and take the chance the end consumer will not call and let the defect fly...
Or take the chance i will go out and have to do 300-400$ worth of repairs in warrenty to the machine ..
They dont care about quailty just profit and i think most gun makers are going that way to from what i have read Kimber sure has.
Right now were in the midst of a nation wide recall on a item my cost parts and labor is 395.00 to repair a Item that cost 430-490 brand new the maker is losing there butt on that one but have made the cost up all ready
I think with the most popular firearms the demand is so great that the makers can't keep up w/out cranking them out.
Then the BIG makers...their hired "bean~counters" want to show an increase in the bottom line profits every year. They keep needing to find ways to cut cost & increase production.
That is how Metal Injection Molded MIM Parts first started being used in firearms.