Duracoat... the good bad and ugly

Duracoat... the good bad and ugly

This is a discussion on Duracoat... the good bad and ugly within the General Firearm Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; I want to hear anything you have to say about Duracoat. I want to get one of my pistols refinished, and the local companies all ...

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Thread: Duracoat... the good bad and ugly

  1. #1
    Array SIXTO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006

    Duracoat... the good bad and ugly

    I want to hear anything you have to say about Duracoat. I want to get one of my pistols refinished, and the local companies all do Duracoat.
    If you have good things to say, bad things, a story or some advice, please post.
    "Just blame Sixto"

  2. #2
    Array QKShooter's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Moderator Central


    SIXTO - Here is the Lauer Custom Weaponry FAQ page regarding DuraCoat.

    Still nothing beats real comments from real people who actually own DuraCoated firearms...so post away folks and add your feedback.
    Liberty Over Tyranny Μολὼν λαβέ

  3. #3
    Member Array roadsiderob's Avatar
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    Oct 2007
    Albuquerque, NM
    I had the slide on my Glock done in silver to cover engraving done by the previous owner. I had it done a couple of months ago and it has held up fine to semi-weekly range trips, one class, and a fair bit of holster use.

  4. #4
    VIP Member Array Rob72's Avatar
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    May 2005
    I have finished an overcoat on a Glock slide with it, a WASR, and will be doing my soon-complete AK kit. Couple of thoughts:
    1) You can vary the sheen yourself. Obviously a modestly glossy finish shows wear less than a deep matte or high-gloss finish. I still run mine a bit on the light side with the hardener to give more matte appearance. More hardener= higher gloss.

    2) It must cure/be cured. Your parts should be allowed to air-dry for around 72 hours before reassembly. I do mine for 12 hours in the oven at 125 degrees, and wait another day to reassemble. Either works, and IIRC, the directions say you can have full-cure in 4 hours with heat, so...

    If it isn't cured, it abrades easily, and may burn off (as a fellow taking an AK to a class the day after getting his back discovered- I believe the finisher rushed things to get the rifle back.)

    It is tough, once cured. TCE/brake cleaner will not soften or remove it. 300 rounds, "pretty quick", through an AK had no ill effect, on the barrel or FH.

    It's basically paint, so it is easy to reapply later, if needed.

    It may build up a tad more than Brownell's teflon/Moly bake finish, but it may also be that I'm not a skilled airbrusher! I've seen some excellent finishes, with no wear points after shooting. It depends a lot on the guy spraying, and on the tolerances on your weapon.

  5. #5
    Member Array cpmiv's Avatar
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    Jun 2006
    Pgh, PA
    Duracoat works great. I've done a couple weapons myself, obviously a professional is going to do it better but even as "handy man challenged" as I am it was pretty easy.

    I ordered the starter kit from Lauer and found it to be a bit lacking in the equipment department. At least for me the canned air didn't get the job done (luckily Wally World had an air compressor that was fairly inexpensive) and then the airbrush "died" (not sure if I gummed it up or what) but again Wally World to the rescue (I ended up with a large air brush used for painting cars I think).

    If you have some hobby time to burn give it a try.
    There are over 550 million firearms in worldwide circulation. That's one firearm for every twelve people on the planet. The only question is: How do we arm the other 11? (Yuri Orlov [Nicolas Cage] Lord of War)

  6. #6
    VIP Member
    Array Rob99VMI04's Avatar
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    Aug 2006
    NOVA...200 square miles surrounded by reality
    My buddy is on the website as one of the guys who is certified in VA as a Duracoat specialists, he does really good work, we've got the oven and everything.
    Its not about guns...Its about Freedom!

    Assistant Instructor @ http://www.green-ops.com/ Located in the Washington D.C. Metropolitan Area "Why should your training be any less special?"

  7. #7
    Senior Member Array HK Dan's Avatar
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    Jun 2006
    Funny Sixto--I just did a 1911 frame, a GLOCK slide, and 2 stock sets for a Rem 1100. I did the holsters that I use in IDPA for the 1911, GLOCK, and HK. I did a Kaybar knife. The remainder in the airbursh was used to do a carpentry hammer, pliers and misc tools. This was on 3 tablespoons of paint, rooughly 6 coats per item (it's very thin). The stuff is amazing and easy to use if you have basic airbrush skills. It cleans up with laquer thinner.

    My son looked at his Rem 1100 and said "Dad--this looks like a million bucks...wait, 2 million...this is for free, right?" (He's right, it looks darned good). If I could figger out how to post pics, I'd put one up for ya.

    It is very fragile for the first couple of days, so be careful where you leave the parts. After that it's like steel.

    I'll be doing a GLOCK frame for a guy tonight, an HK slide, and AR15 stock furniture. I'm sold. It's been pounding nails (hammer) for a week now, and it's still there!

    HK "Duracoat the world!" Dan
    "What does Marcellus Wallace LOOK like?"

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Array sojourner's Avatar
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    Nov 2005
    I had a pistol duracoated and it did not last me one range session. My experience with duracoat was horrible. I don't know if i can attribute that to duracoat or the person who applied the duracoat. I'll never ever get anything duracoated again.

  9. #9
    Lead Moderator
    Array HotGuns's Avatar
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    Dec 2004
    I've done several guns and all have come out excellent.I had a friend of mine do a Sig and it looked like crap.The biggest thing is to make sure that the part is completely degreased. After you do that, don't even touch it.

    I rushed a job once, my suppressed 700 Remington, and had to do it over because I tried to put the action in the stock before that paint was cured. It peeled it right off.

    I've gotten into the habit of letting them sit for a week or so before I even think of re assembling or handling.

    Once I figured that out, my results have been much better.

    If you don't completely degrease it, don't expect it to do well. Even the oil from fingerprints on bare metal will screw up the finish.

    And give the paint some time to cure.
    Universal Background Checks...the next step towards registration and confiscation.

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