Removing the ejector

This is a discussion on Removing the ejector within the General Firearm Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; So, I need to re-crimp the plunger tube on my aluminum frame Kimber UCII. I have the proper tool to do this, but I need ...

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Thread: Removing the ejector

  1. #1
    Member Array stewartjwnls's Avatar
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    Removing the ejector

    So, I need to re-crimp the plunger tube on my aluminum frame Kimber UCII. I have the proper tool to do this, but I need to remove the ejector to do so.

    I have both brass and steel punches, and they appear to be the correct size. However, the roll pin? acts like it is welded in. I know that aluminum and steel can do this, but, is this normal?

    I'm concerned that with this aluminum frame, I don't have much margin for error here.

    Is there a different tool or process for removing this pin?

    Help!
    "You're already flying upside down. You might as well turn on the smoke and have some fun."
    - Laurence Gonzales - "Deep Survival"

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  3. #2
    VIP Member Array Bud White's Avatar
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    you dont need to remove the ejector to recrimp the plunger tube at least i have never had to

  4. #3
    Member Array stewartjwnls's Avatar
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    I have a tool that is basically a pair of vise grips that have been modified. Along with a block and dowel to protect the inside and outside of the plunger tube. Came from Brownells.

    The inside jaw will properly reach the front stake, but not the back. it hits the ejector.
    "You're already flying upside down. You might as well turn on the smoke and have some fun."
    - Laurence Gonzales - "Deep Survival"

  5. #4
    VIP Member Array Bud White's Avatar
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    never used that one mine is more of a C Clamp than that tool .. soak the pin with Kroil for a day then try driving it out

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    Array QKShooter's Avatar
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    Is it possible for you to grind part of the Vise Grips away and still have the tool do the job? That would be my first choice.


    They might have the ejector Loc Tited as well as pinned.

    Once you DO finally get the pin out...also Be Careful removing the ejector.
    You do not want to bust the leg off inside the frame hole.
    The easiest way to get the ejector out is to lock the ejector into a Vise with the frame upside down and then just lightly tap the frame up a bit with a brass mallet and the frame should move right up off the ejector.
    Liberty Over Tyranny Μολὼν λαβέ

  7. #6
    Member Array stewartjwnls's Avatar
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    Well, upon closer inspection, this tool does work with the ejector in. It does touch, but with the existing play in the ejector, it does not actually flex the ejector.

    I removed the plunger tube, and I believe it was Loctited on, so I suspect the roll pin for the ejector is as well. Really didn't want to mess with the ejector if I didn't have too. This aluminum frame has me a little spooked.

    I replaced and re-staked the plunger tube, but unfortuately, it didn't solve the problem that I was trying to fix in the first place.

    I have been trying to install an ambi safety on this pistol. It is Kimber's own version. Works fine operating the left side, but operating from the right, the left side of the safety flexes inside the frame and the grip safety, and allows the whole safety where it meets the plunger to flex away from the frame. Thus will not operate through its entire range.

    I found that the factory single safety does this as well if you play with it. Normal operation of your thumb keeps it pressed against the frame, so you don't experience this problem.

    I have an Ultra CDP II with the factory ambi safety, and it works perfectly. From a visual comparison, you can't tell any difference.

    Is it possible that the plunger spring is not strong enough? Does that make any sense?
    "You're already flying upside down. You might as well turn on the smoke and have some fun."
    - Laurence Gonzales - "Deep Survival"

  8. #7
    VIP Member Array Redneck Repairs's Avatar
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    I would suggest that you carefully mod the detent notch on the safety so that the plunger has a slight " track " straight down ( it would be straight up on the part ) rather than an apparently low spot on the inside to cam it out .

    Edited to add :

    Go slow with lots of reinstall and try, as soon as it works stop so you dont have a safety that wipes off too easily . For most folks i would say get a new safety , but from reading your post the " tinker with it and fix it myself " is as important to you as anything and you have allready shown a cautious base set of skills lol .
    Make sure you get full value out of today , Do something worthwhile, because what you do today will cost you one day off the rest of your life .
    We only begin to understand folks after we stop and think .

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    Member Array stewartjwnls's Avatar
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    You're right about one motivator. I do like learning how to do stuff like this.

    As for the other motivation, if I take this to a gunsmith or send it back to Kimber, I'll not only spend some money but be without my pistol for several weeks at a minimum. For a good local gunsmith, it may take much longer.

    I can spend the same money plus or minus on the proper tools, books, etc, and within reason, do many things myself. However, I've considered what you're describing, and also wondered whether that might be more than I'm capable of at the moment.

    ANy thoughts on whether or not the plunger spring is part of the problem?
    "You're already flying upside down. You might as well turn on the smoke and have some fun."
    - Laurence Gonzales - "Deep Survival"

  10. #9
    VIP Member Array Redneck Repairs's Avatar
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    Stewart I will say that unless the plunger spring is kinked , bent , otherwise distorted it is not part of the problem , and even if it is it is unlikely to be part of the problem . IMHO the problem lies with the left side ( normal single side ) safety detent notch . It is either mis aligned or has a machine/casting artifact which is camming it out rather than allowing a smooth transition from safe to off directly down . This may come from a warped part , or as stated a burr left from casting or machining that was not properly polished out . However again imho the fix is the same in any case , re polish out the detent notch , and carefully cut a channel or low spot just where you want the plunger to run going off safe and back on . Again i will caution to do this by hand and a couple of strokes of the file at a time refitting to check function . Once it starts to function then go to sandpaper , ect.. to just get a smooth function not an easy wipe off on the safety .

    While you are at it check the safety union ( where the safetys join inside the frame ) for excessive loosness or a bent part that could put pressure on the left side safety pin and thusly cam the safety out .
    Make sure you get full value out of today , Do something worthwhile, because what you do today will cost you one day off the rest of your life .
    We only begin to understand folks after we stop and think .

    Criminals are looking for victims, not opponents.

  11. #10
    Member Array stewartjwnls's Avatar
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    Well, at this point, trying what you say only puts the safety at risk. I'd rather give that a shot than give up and send it out. Obviously I was hoping someone might tell me it was just a spring strength issue.

    The junction where the two halves of the safety join is tight. However, if it were rotated 90 degrees, I think there would be less chance of that joint flexing in the frame. Either that, or as you indicate, the shaft of the safety is not 90 degrees to the external piece. In conjuction with that and the tolerances in the frame and grip safety hole, it just flexes too far away from the frame. Far enough to almost allow the plunger to work itself between the safety and the frame.

    Thanks for the detailed help.
    "You're already flying upside down. You might as well turn on the smoke and have some fun."
    - Laurence Gonzales - "Deep Survival"

  12. #11
    VIP Member Array Redneck Repairs's Avatar
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    Stew , my help has been hardly detailed , i can only make general suggestions without seeing the gun , or pics of the malfunction . I tossed out a few ideas of most likely issues that will not affect your frame only the safety(s) I did not even want to bring up frame issues such as mis aligned holes or miss milled frame that can also cam a safety out lol . Most likely the problem is in the cheap part ( safety ) not the frame . when screwing with a safety tho go real slow and re install a lot , do not get in a hurry on either fileing or mesuring ( square ) . if you go thro everything and nothing seems to help , well then remove the grip safety and re assemble the pistol where you can hand cycle it and watch the parts as they move togeather . again tho dont get in a hurry unless and untill you understand just how they should work togeather .
    Make sure you get full value out of today , Do something worthwhile, because what you do today will cost you one day off the rest of your life .
    We only begin to understand folks after we stop and think .

    Criminals are looking for victims, not opponents.

  13. #12
    Member Array stewartjwnls's Avatar
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    As far as the detail, I guess that's relative.

    You've given me enough to want to go ahead and try.

    Thanks again.
    "You're already flying upside down. You might as well turn on the smoke and have some fun."
    - Laurence Gonzales - "Deep Survival"

  14. #13
    VIP Member Array Redneck Repairs's Avatar
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    NP stew , if you have issues contact me via pm , or get ahold of a real 1911 guy like OD lol . I will be out some next week since i got volunteered on a new project by the step dad for his grandaughter . oO( god i love remodeling trailer houses .. i suspect my whisky bill will go up )
    Make sure you get full value out of today , Do something worthwhile, because what you do today will cost you one day off the rest of your life .
    We only begin to understand folks after we stop and think .

    Criminals are looking for victims, not opponents.

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