Need good advice on cleaning lubricating my S&W 640

Need good advice on cleaning lubricating my S&W 640

This is a discussion on Need good advice on cleaning lubricating my S&W 640 within the General Firearm Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; Hello all, I purchased a new 640 the other day but I don't see much detailed info the manual about cleaning and lubricating... Semi Autos ...

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Thread: Need good advice on cleaning lubricating my S&W 640

  1. #1
    Senior Member Array CR2008's Avatar
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    Need good advice on cleaning lubricating my S&W 640

    Hello all, I purchased a new 640 the other day but I don't see much detailed info the manual about cleaning and lubricating... Semi Autos are straight forward to me, but this is my first revolver.
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    Sig P220R/Sig P239 (9mm)/ S&W 640/ Ruger Single Six Hunter (.22LR/Mag)/ CZ 452 Varmint .22LR/ Lee Enfield No4 MK2 sporterized dated 1959/ Mosin Nagant M90-30 dated 1942/


  2. #2
    VIP Member Array Rob72's Avatar
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    Externally, just a wipe down with a lightly oiled rag. Clean your cylinders individually with a bore brush, and the face of the cylinder with a toothbrush.

    Its a fairly closed system, so unless you dunk it somewhere, it shouldn't need to be clean or oiled much internally. I open & maintain my own. If you don't feel comfortable with that, see below, or take it to your smith about every 2 years for a detail clean.

    I would recommend the Kuhnhausen S&W shop manual from Midway: MidwayUSA - "The S&W Revolver: A Shop Manual" Book by Jerry Kuhnhausen

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    Member Array Ace12's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CR2008 View Post
    Hello all, I purchased a new 640 the other day but I don't see much detailed info the manual about cleaning and lubricating... Semi Autos are straight forward to me, but this is my first revolver.
    I purchased a 642 the other day and was fixing to ask the same question. The cylinder feels a little rough or gritty when I spin it. Should I lubricate it? And if so, how do I take apart to lube it.

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    VIP Member Array MitchellCT's Avatar
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    I cleaned mine the same way I did my glock: Non-chlorinated brake cleaner.

    Take off the grips, open cylinder and give a spritz.

    Shake off, let dry, replace grips, put oil on lube points mentioned in manual and you will be fine.

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    VIP Member Array Rob72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ace12 View Post
    I purchased a 642 the other day and was fixing to ask the same question. The cylinder feels a little rough or gritty when I spin it. Should I lubricate it? And if so, how do I take apart to lube it.
    If you're modestly mechanically inclined, you can remove the three screws in the sideplate, and pop the sideplate off, then follow the exploded diagram in your owners' manual.

    If you feel grit it either means something is caught inside (dirt/grit/millings) or there is a rough edge. A properly worked Smith should feel like sliding two plates of oiled glass together, trigger and cylinder. Again:

    I would recommend the Kuhnhausen S&W shop manual from Midway: MidwayUSA - "The S&W Revolver: A Shop Manual" Book by Jerry Kuhnhausen

    The insides need minimal lubrication. If you pump a bunch of oil in there hoping to smooth things up, it will become a gunky-gummy mess, increasing the chance of locking up.

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    Senior Member Array CR2008's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ace12 View Post
    I purchased a 642 the other day and was fixing to ask the same question. The cylinder feels a little rough or gritty when I spin it. Should I lubricate it? And if so, how do I take apart to lube it.
    I cleaned up and lubed my gun last night, it spines noticeably better when it does not touch the sides... My manual actually tells the owner to clean and lube the new gun (they are actually fired for a shell casing to be collected for States like Mass,MD etc.)
    http://www.bloombergfightbackfund.com/
    Sig P220R/Sig P239 (9mm)/ S&W 640/ Ruger Single Six Hunter (.22LR/Mag)/ CZ 452 Varmint .22LR/ Lee Enfield No4 MK2 sporterized dated 1959/ Mosin Nagant M90-30 dated 1942/

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    Member Array TonyB's Avatar
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    I took the ejector rod off my 642 and cross threaded it trying to get it back on....had to send it back to Smith...now I leave stuff alone.Clean barrel,cylinder holes,lube stuff from the outside.Lesson learned.If it ain't broke,don't try and fix it at the kitchen table.
    good news,if you do frig something up,Smith will usuaully send you a shipping label,and fix stuff for free.I got my gun back in 8 days.
    "Just because I'm paranoid,doesn't mean they're NOT after me...."

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    Member Array dakotasdad's Avatar
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