Gun storage (case vs safe)

Gun storage (case vs safe)

This is a discussion on Gun storage (case vs safe) within the General Firearm Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; Hello, I'm leaving in a week and a half and I'll be gone for a year or two. I was thinking about gun storage and ...

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Thread: Gun storage (case vs safe)

  1. #1
    Member Array mchaley's Avatar
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    Gun storage (case vs safe)

    Hello,
    I'm leaving in a week and a half and I'll be gone for a year or two. I was thinking about gun storage and I'm not sure which would be better. I'm looking at two gun safes:
    Gander Mountain > Stack-On 10-Gun Safe with Combination Lock - Hunting > Shooting Accessories > Gun Storage > Safes & Accessories :
    for $279

    Stack-On 8-Gun Combination Safe - Dick's Sporting Goods
    for $219

    I dont think I'll be able to secure it to the floor or wall, however. These will be mainly used to keep little fingers away.

    I am also thinking about cases, I can get one for $75 or less. I can also get cheaper gun safes which can be pried open. They're more like gun lockers.


    Which would you get? If I could bolt it into the concrete, I'd get a safe for sure. Now, I'm not sure.

    Also, which would keep moisture out better? It's relatively dry down here (basement) so it should be fine, just want to make sure.

    Which would you get and why?
    Which keeps moisture out the best?

    I'm thinking about the one for 220 but I like the one for 280. I'll have to look into it further. The one for 280 is about 165lbs. I could try to talk about bolting it to the floor. I live in a basement so it shouldn't be a problem. BUT, I dont know much about it.

    How deep should the bolts be?
    Is there any risk to drilling?
    How deep is a normal foundation?

    In order to get to bolt this down, I'll have to know exactly how to do it before I get the go ahead.

    Thanks!


  2. #2
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    Any of them woud do the trick, just oil your guns up real well and get some RemDry packs and you will be fine. Maybe a good added measure would be to invest in some gun socks.
    "Just blame Sixto"

  3. #3
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    A good safe is important, but if you're leaving for a while...try and put the safe in a place that is well hidden.
    I'd get the heaviest safe you can afford...buy big, you'll never have enough room.

    Stay armed...out of sight, out of mind...stay safe!
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  4. #4
    VIP Member Array Thanis's Avatar
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    Gun socks and safe.

    You mentioned little hands, and you will be away. This makes me think safe.

    I think a gun sock and safe would also be the better storage option vs long term care. Get one of those things that reduces moisture. Also, IMHO, do not get a gun safe that is fire proof. Fireproof safes trap in mosture (part of the reason they are firesafe).

    However, I think the little hand issue would be my main reason for getting a safe even vs locking case.

    My $.02.

  5. #5
    Member Array houdini's Avatar
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    a safe because the bag guy can walk off with case it is harder to walk off with a safe.

  6. #6
    Member Array mchaley's Avatar
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    Good advice. Interesting thought on the fireproof safes.
    I know the 10 gun safe weighs about 160lbs. Maybe I should lock up some barbells :P

    I wish I could bolt this mofo to the floor :(

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thanis View Post
    Also, IMHO, do not get a gun safe that is fire proof. Fireproof safes trap in mosture (part of the reason they are firesafe).
    Who filled your head with this? They dont "hold moisture" any more than anything else.

    Any safe, box or whatever will retain some moisture, thats why its important to use a RemDry pack, golden rod or similiar product.
    "Just blame Sixto"

  8. #8
    Member Array mchaley's Avatar
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    I guess if something is air tight they will hold as much moisture as was in there when closed. I dont know.

    With a safe, how far do you have to drill into a concrete floor?

  9. #9
    Member Array JB-Norcal's Avatar
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    Most concrete slabs should be at least 4". If you set the safe against a wall the combination of being anchored to the floor and to the wall also you should be good. Visit your local hardware and look at what's available as far as anchors go. There are many choices - some with expanding soft metal or wedges using friction, or you could use an epoxy to set the bolts. I kinda like the adding dumbells idea too (or ammo, cuz prices will never go down). Basements have the potential to be damp, RemDry or something for sure.

  10. #10
    Member Array mchaley's Avatar
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    Would two inches deep with both epoxy and lag bolts be enough? I dont think anchoring to the wall is an option. :)

  11. #11
    VIP Member Array Thanis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SIXTO View Post
    Who filled your head with this?
    That material that looks like cement in firesafes, is brittle, and designed to hold moisture in. Well, does not hold moisture, but draws moisture in. Something like that. When it is heated, I think it melts and makes a seal, trapping the moisture , keep the items inside safe, for a while, depending on fire temp and safe's / firebox's rating.

    I believe several safe co. warn of possible firearm storage issues, due to this issue, for fireboxes designed to keep paper safe in case of fire. I have read manuals that warn of possible corrosion of metals stored inside.

    Lastly, I was told by a safesmith that you needed to be esp careful with fireproof gun safes due to this issue. Stated that is why it is important to have that moisture collecting can (and replacing it as directed) in a fireproof gun safe. The guns should also be checked, as there are several factors that could prevent the effectiveness of the moisture collecting material. Wish I could recall the name of the can.

    I'm not sure on this next statement at all, but I think the can warns that it can effect the fire rating of the safe if not changed. Just pulling that one out of no where, take this paragraph with a grain of salt.

  12. #12
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    I took your entire post with a grain of salt; you have been misinformed.

    Yes, any enclosed container can have moisture problems, hence the need for a drying agent of some sort in any safe.

    No, the cement boards dont melt, there is a gasket that does that in water resistant safes, not fire proof.

    Water damage warnings come from fire safes because of the first thing firemen do is dump thousands of gallons of water on a fire creating a steam bath that will destroy your birch and walnut.
    "Just blame Sixto"

  13. #13
    VIP Member Array Thanis's Avatar
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    The "cement boards" in your typical fire safe is not even close to being "cement" that I am sure of.

    I understand the water damage issue, but that is not what I'm referring to.

    I will look into it further to make my case.

  14. #14
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    OK, have fun. Google Palusol. That should get you started nicely.
    "Just blame Sixto"

  15. #15
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    Make sure you lube your guns with a water displacing lubricant, throw a few desiccant packs in your safe and it will be fine.

    As far as bolting your safe down, you should have no problems. Typically, you would want to drill about 3" to 4"(depending on what anchors you use) with a hammer drill with a masonry bit(or a regular drill, but its going to take a long time). Swing by Lowes or Home Depot and grab a few concrete anchors. They are very simple to use. You drill your hole to your predetermined depth. I usually put a piece of tape on the drill bit so I can see how much further I have to go. After that, you'll place the anchor in the hole, and use a hammer to drive it in. There will be a bolt head at the top, and you'll tighten it down and you're done.

    The only problem with concrete anchors is they do not come out. If you move, you will have to use a side angle grinder or something to that effect to cut off the bolt head to remove the safe.

    It really is much simpler than it sounds.
    There are two sides to every issue: one side is right and the other is wrong, but the middle is always evil.

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