I have found the biggr power 12-16 is too much for me . i can see wobble, but cannot hold steady with power turned up. Seems most of the $80 + scopes should be ok for reliability . Also consider a batt. light up cross hairs .
This is a discussion on Scope for .30-'06 within the General Firearm Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; I have found the biggr power 12-16 is too much for me . i can see wobble, but cannot hold steady with power turned up. ...
I have found the biggr power 12-16 is too much for me . i can see wobble, but cannot hold steady with power turned up. Seems most of the $80 + scopes should be ok for reliability . Also consider a batt. light up cross hairs .
I have a Leupold Veri-X III 3.5-10x, on my Ruger 6.5x55mm Swedish. Ive used it for 8 years. It was originally on my Remington 700, when the rifle was dropped from a cliff. Leupold fixed the scope with a three week turnover. Since then Leupold has been on most of my rifles, except a Bushnell 4200 Elite 16x on my varmint rifle, and a old Tasco varmint/tactical 10x on my 10/22.
Buy the best you can, its well worth it. Glass is NOT something you want to skimp on.
Chris,
How well does your Ruger #1 45-70 shoot? Im a Ruger nut + I also love single shot firearms.
But I hear that the accuracy on the Ruger #1 rifles are either close to or even true M.O.A., or they are passable.
The Burris Fullfield II is a GREAT scope for the money (about $200). I've got one on my new/old .270 AI.
I have a thirty year old Weaver Widefield 3-9 on my 25-06. I wish I had bought more than one at the time.
My .17 HMR wears a $80 Tasco 4-12. It works fine for that gun, and is very clear. The gun has no recoil and is only used in good weather though.
This is exactly the info I was looking for, and I appreciate it.
Now an add-on question- what types of rings to you use? The kind that screw on the side, the ones that screw on the top, or the ones that meet at 10 and 2 on the tube?
i use Nikon 3x9's Buckmasters good nuff for deer hunting
Greg - so far it is not grouping as well as it should but hey - I started off (couldn't resist) loading it with near max loads!!! 52 grains IIRC of 3031 under a 405 Lasercast! Hehe - buffalo gun! I will play with loads and in fact will drop back to a load with RL7 a bit above what I put thru BFR - I think I will find a sweet load eventually. Still l;ove shooting it thoHow well does your Ruger #1 45-70 shoot?
Hawkeye - my rings are invariably the ''half and half'' - screws at 9 and 3 o'clock.
On my #1 I did have to get a set of Ruger special rings (forget name - ''concentric'' I think) as Leupold would not zero - spoke to a nice guy at Leupold who pointed me in right direction - Ruger call then achieved a very quick response - good all round!
Overall I'd say the average Weaver mount rings will be as I mentioned, ''half and half".
Chris - P95
NRA Certified Instructor & NRA Life Member.
"To own a gun and assume that you are armed
is like owning a piano and assuming that you are a musician!."
http://www.rkba-2a.com/ - a portal for 2A links, articles and some videos.
I wouldn't worry Chris. Ya really don't need M.O.A. grps from a .45-70, used for hunting. If ya can keep the grp within a pie tin at 100y your all set.
Keep playing with loads, .45-70 can be finicky. I have a bud who reloads .45-70 alot, Ill ask him what might do the trick.
I just don't want to buy a #1 chambered for .22-250 or a .220 swift that isn't M.O.A. .
Agreed Greg - if looking at small cals like that then definitely you want MOA and sub MAO performance.
When I say my grouping is not good enough - I am probably managing minute of pie plate Ok but - heck - there is always that urge to get shots tighter - I will - even tho the round is not really condusive to mega tight results.
Chris - P95
NRA Certified Instructor & NRA Life Member.
"To own a gun and assume that you are armed
is like owning a piano and assuming that you are a musician!."
http://www.rkba-2a.com/ - a portal for 2A links, articles and some videos.
Chris ya ever tried some of the Tricks for #1's to make grouping better since your unhappy?
Tricks? Haha - yeah well I know there are some - but ''unhappy'' - naw - no way - just that I will ''tighten it up'' when I get to working up more loads.
Even as it is now - there is no whitetail who should stand at 100yds and flip me the bird![]()
Chris - P95
NRA Certified Instructor & NRA Life Member.
"To own a gun and assume that you are armed
is like owning a piano and assuming that you are a musician!."
http://www.rkba-2a.com/ - a portal for 2A links, articles and some videos.
The .458 that I have is the #1H. It wears speciality rings after I had the same trouble as you, P95. I used it for a backup weapon on guided moose hunts. The 400gr. Barnes would shoot at least 2MOA out to 200yds. I was 6 full grs. over book max. when I finally said "ENOUGH". That was using the old Data MR223(now Accurate)powder. After closely boosting the powder charge I finally got to the "magical" 3000fps.using a 300gr. Hornady HP also. The #3 in .45-70 will come within 400fps of the .458 in that(or Mauser) action. It's a really great gun. I'd have to say,argueablly,the #1's and #3's are Ruger's best.----------
For some dumb reason i want a #1 in 257 roberts and 458 lott
Not sure why you might want a .257 Bud - but I do know of a guy who has pushed pills thru his 458 to exceed 3,000 fps
Anyways - good 'ol 45-70 is still fun -![]()
Chris - P95
NRA Certified Instructor & NRA Life Member.
"To own a gun and assume that you are armed
is like owning a piano and assuming that you are a musician!."
http://www.rkba-2a.com/ - a portal for 2A links, articles and some videos.
Got the 45/70 in a Encore