Uncocking .45

Uncocking .45

This is a discussion on Uncocking .45 within the General Firearm Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; I have a Rock Island .45 1911 CS Should I be able to uncock it, with out depressing the grip safety? I can thumb back ...

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Thread: Uncocking .45

  1. #1
    Member Array treksouth's Avatar
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    Uncocking .45

    I have a Rock Island .45 1911 CS
    Should I be able to uncock it, with out depressing the grip safety?
    I can thumb back the hammer, ease the trigger, and work the hammer down?
    Am I bypassing it by working uncocked? or is the common. I do have to pull the hammer way back, then ease the trigger.

    I tested the safety's and they work correctly. I used a guide found on our forum in the how to section.


  2. #2
    JD
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    The grip safety blocks the trigger from moving, you can't decock a 1911 without pulling the trigger.

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    I'm not a big 1911 guy but I would not recommend De-Cocking a S/A 1911 with your hands. To many things can go wrong.
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  4. #4
    JD
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rob99VMI04 View Post
    I'm not a big 1911 guy but I would not recommend De-Cocking a S/A 1911 with your hands. To many things can go wrong.
    Rob99 is right, you're not planning on doing this on a live round are you? NEVER decock a 1911 with a round in the chamber, you're asking for a negligent discharge.

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    Senior Member Array Paladin132's Avatar
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    No you shouldn't. You shouldn't try to lower the hammer like that either it will get away from you sooner or later if you do.

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    Member Array treksouth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JD View Post
    Rob99 is right, you're not planning on doing this on a live round are you? NEVER decock a 1911 with a round in the chamber, you're asking for a negligent discharge.
    NO. No round is in the chamber. I was following the safety function test on this site as instructed. When I uncocked the hammer, quite by accident using my thumb and fore finger just as you would a 410, or any other rifle/shotgun with a hammer. I did not depress the grip safety. Unless I pulled gently on the hammer further back than normal, and squezzed the trigger, the hammer would not fall. All safety measures worked. This is a 1911, so there is no decocker.

    Quote Originally Posted by JD View Post
    The grip safety blocks the trigger from moving, you can't decock a 1911 without pulling the trigger.
    Yes, that's correct. But should I be able to pull the hammer back, squeeze trigger, and lower the hammer?

    Quote Originally Posted by Paladin132 View Post
    No you shouldn't. You shouldn't try to lower the hammer like that either it will get away from you sooner or later if you do.
    Paladin, I usually use two hands to decock - always unloaded. But I was testing out the safety and did this quite by accident.
    I would be happy to listen to proper decocking instructions.

  7. #7
    JD
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    Quote Originally Posted by treksouth View Post
    Yes, that's correct. But should I be able to pull the hammer back, squeeze trigger, and lower the hammer?
    If you have the grip safety pressed in and the thumb safety deactivated, yes. That's how the gun fires, all safeties deactivated, pull the trigger, hammer falls. I would advise not riding the hammer down and just dry fire it some say that lowering the hammer by riding it down damages the sear over time.

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    Not to encourage anyone to lower the hammer on a 1911 with a live round, but a buddy of mine has done that for about 25 years now and never had a unintentional discharge. Again, not encouraging anyone to do this, but how does one decock a cocked DA/SA revolver, say a 686?
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    JD
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tangle View Post
    Not to encourage anyone to lower the hammer on a 1911 with a live round, but a buddy of mine has done that for about 25 years now and never had a unitentional discharge. Again, not encouraging anyone to do this, but how does one decock a cocked DA/SA revolver, say a 686?
    My issue is with most newer 1911s you have the "Commander Hammer" which has less surface area then the spurred hammers of the older models, you combine that with a "baked on" coating re: KimPro, ArmoryCoat, ParaKote, Baercoat, etc. etc., it makes for one slippery hammer. Just because someone does "X" right for "Y" amount of time doesn't mean that he can't screw it up tomorrow.

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    Quote Originally Posted by treksouth View Post
    I have a Rock Island .45 1911 CS
    Should I be able to uncock it, with out depressing the grip safety?
    I can thumb back the hammer, ease the trigger, and work the hammer down?
    Am I bypassing it by working uncocked? or is the common. I do have to pull the hammer way back, then ease the trigger.

    I tested the safety's and they work correctly. I used a guide found on our forum in the how to section.
    I think I'm missing something here. You should not have to pull the hammer way back if it's cocked. In fact, I wouldn't think the hammer could go 'way back' - it'll hit the beavertail.

    Could it be that the hammer is in the half-cock position? Then you'd have to pull the hammer 'way back'.
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    Member Array Tye_Defender's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by treksouth View Post
    Should I be able to uncock it, with out depressing the grip safety?
    I can thumb back the hammer, ease the trigger, and work the hammer down?
    It sounds like what you are saying is this:

    Start with the gun unloaded.
    Thumb safety off, gun gripped as normal, grip safety depressed.
    Dry fire to drop hammer. (Now the gun is setup to start the test)

    Release grip safety (no longer gripped as normal)
    Pull hammer back to cocked position with thumb on hammer
    Without depressing grip safety, put pressure on trigger
    Ease hammer down with thumb.


    If that is the case, I think something is wrong. Without depressing the grip safety, the trigger should not move. Without trigger movement, the hammer should not move. It sounds like a malfunction of the grip safety.

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    Quote Originally Posted by JD View Post
    My issue is with most newer 1911s you have the "Commander Hammer" which has less surface area then the spurred hammers of the older models, you combine that with a "baked on" coating re: KimPro, ArmoryCoat, ParaKote, Baercoat, etc. etc., it makes for one slippery hammer. Just because someone does "X" right for "Y" amount of time doesn't mean that he can't screw it up tomorrow.
    Pick up a 686, fully load it, cock the hammer, and lower the hammer. Makes one nervous just to say it. Yet I've seen and heard of people lowering hammers on DA/SA revos commonly, in fact, if a DA/SA is loaded and cocked, there's no other way to decock it but to hold the hammer and pull the trigger - I'm shivering just thinking about it. Most simply put their thumb over the hammer, pull the trigger, and lower the hammer.

    OTOH, most 1911s have a skeletonized hammer and you can actually get a better grip on it with your non-shooting hand, between your thumb and forefinger, ease it past the sear, release the trigger and lower it to half cock. It seems to me a much safer operation than lowering the hammer on a DA/SA revolver.

    However, having said all that, I strongly discourage lowering the hammer on a live round on a 1911. On a cocked DA/SA revolver, there's no choice, with a 1911 there is.
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    Member Array treksouth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tangle View Post
    I think I'm missing something here. You should not have to pull the hammer way back if it's cocked. In fact, I wouldn't think the hammer could go 'way back' - it'll hit the beavertail.

    Could it be that the hammer is in the half-cock position? Then you'd have to pull the hammer 'way back'.
    by way back, i mean that the hammer will pull back from its resting cocked position. Not far, but enough that I can then pull the trigger, and uncock it. Not easily, but it happened. I am starting to get the idea that this is not natural.
    To be clear: To uncock i use two hands, and remove the magazine, and clear the chamber. one hand works the trigger, and grip safety, the left hand works the hammer in a slow, downward motion.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tye_Defender View Post
    It sounds like what you are saying is this:

    Start with the gun unloaded.
    Thumb safety off, gun gripped as normal, grip safety depressed.
    Dry fire to drop hammer. (Now the gun is setup to start the test)

    Release grip safety (no longer gripped as normal)
    Pull hammer back to cocked position with thumb on hammer
    Without depressing grip safety, put pressure on trigger
    Ease hammer down with thumb.


    If that is the case, I think something is wrong. Without depressing the grip safety, the trigger should not move. Without trigger movement, the hammer should not move. It sounds like a malfunction of the grip safety.
    Tye, you are correct. Except, I pull the hammer further back than the cocked position. Only a small way then work the trigger.
    Again, I've followed the 1911 function test on this site and the .45 passes the safety tests. Only when the hammer is pulled back futher than the cocked position will it then release with the trigger pulled.

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    Senior Member Array ICTsnub's Avatar
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    Ding-a-Ling I got it!

    Are you pulling the hammer back into the beavertail, and pressing the grip saftey that way?

  15. #15
    Member Array treksouth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ICTsnub View Post
    Are you pulling the hammer back into the beavertail, and pressing the grip saftey that way?
    That's possible.
    But, is that possible? Is that by design? Or, has my sear pin failed at that point?

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