Coating

Coating

This is a discussion on Coating within the General Firearm Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; Hi everyone. I noticed that alot of people are looking into coating their guns. I was wondering what all do you have coated, how long ...

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Thread: Coating

  1. #1
    Member Array Kovernm's Avatar
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    Coating

    Hi everyone. I noticed that alot of people are looking into coating their guns. I was wondering what all do you have coated, how long does it take, how much does it cost, and what coating do you use? Thanks.


  2. #2
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    Array HotGuns's Avatar
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    All the metal on the gun. Several hours. Forty bucks. DuraCoat.
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  3. #3
    VIP Member Array Rob72's Avatar
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    Any non-stainless firearm. Stainless only if its going somewhere really humid/saltwater enviro.

    Teflon/moly over park is ideal.
    Duracoat.
    Hard chrome.

    If you can detail-strip your weapon & rent/own a sand blaster, its worth buying the DIY kit. If not, it can run from $40-100, depending on the size and intricacy of the weapon. ATFE recently changed the licensing requirements for coaters to ClassII Manufacturers'. Butt-tastic.

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    VIP Member Array dukalmighty's Avatar
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    I used KG gunkote,The prep is the longest ,and you need an airbrush kit.after spraying the parts you bake in the oven for 1 hour then let cool and reassemble
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    Ex Member Array Mikey's Avatar
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    wow, didn't know about coating. So you have to strip it 100% huh.

  6. #6
    Member Array kimberland's Avatar
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    Duracoat. I had to coat several layers, with different colors. In all it took a week between coats drying. About $50. No stripping required.








  7. #7
    VIP Member Array Rob72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey View Post
    wow, didn't know about coating. So you have to strip it 100% huh.
    If it's a rough finish like parkerizing, no. Any smooth surface needs to be blasted.

  8. #8
    Distinguished Member Array coffeecup's Avatar
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    Yeah, I coat mine often with a really good gun oil.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Array Rustynuts's Avatar
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    My coating process.

    1 - Blast with handheld media blaster, medium to fine grit. Don't have a big blasting setup, just used a pancake compressor.

    2 - Wash thoroughly with soap/water, then go over again with MEK. You may get some minor flash rust due to the wash, but not to worry! (see step 4)

    3 - Preheat parts in oven on low (100-180, whatever your oven does)

    4 - Buy and use some K-Phos cold phosphating. Get a hobby compressor and small airbrush gun (cheapo does fine). This stuff will eat any flash rust, etch the metal for good adhesion and provides a base prime coat for final finish adhesion and further anti-corrosion properties like regular phosphating. https://www.kgcoatings.com/index.php...d&productId=21

    5 - Let dry throroughly and preheat again. Clean out air brush while waiting.

    6 - Use airbrush again on warm parts with Norrell's Moly Resin (choice of colors). John Norrell Arms - FAQ's

    7 - Bake at 300 per instructions for an hour. If part not fully stripped and has springs, lower temp to 225 or so and bake for 2-3 hours.

    8 - Oil up the fully cooled part!

    9 - Take pictures for forum

    10 - Shoot it!

    Process should work fine with other coatings as well like Gun Kote or Duracoat.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by kimberland View Post
    Duracoat. I had to coat several layers, with different colors. In all it took a week between coats drying. About $50. No stripping required.







    Nice job, wrong colors...
    Should have been Orange and Blue so you could carry around Gainesville (also known as Title Town...)
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    VIP Member Array Sticks's Avatar
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    Duracoat is on my winter layoff to do list, house ridden for a couple of days while doing so as the CFO will not let me carry hers.

    Still deciding on Color(s), Currently pondering matching my Desert Eagle - black slide, gray frame.

    Basic instructions say just degrease and go at it. I have a sandblaster and know that glass bead is the way to go as I have areas of holster wear/rust.

    I should do a complete strip down, but I am leery of punching out some of the roll pins so there will be some intricate masking after the first coat so as to not affect operation of moving parts.
    Sticks

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    Member Array PAPACHUCK's Avatar
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    Please stop showing that red thing.........my eyes are starting to bleed!

    At least you pimped out a Bersa.


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  13. #13
    Member Array jdivence's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PAPACHUCK View Post
    Please stop showing that red thing.........my eyes are starting to bleed!

    At least you pimped out a Bersa.


    RED!!! I see no red guns on this thread. There is a beautiful scarlet Bersa.

    O-H-I-O!

  14. #14
    New Member Array matt71579's Avatar
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    my gun kote pic

    [IMG][/IMG]i have been using this product for years here is my gun
    Attached Images
    Last edited by matt71579; February 8th, 2009 at 12:53 AM.

  15. #15
    Senior Member Array WC145's Avatar
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    I've had my Savage MKII parkerized by a local gunsmith while he was doing some other work. It cost $120 for the finish work and he had the gun a total of 5 weeks. Right now the cylinder from my S&W 360 is out at Robar being coated with their NP3 finish. The cost is $61 plus return shipping and if they get it done by the projected date they will have had it for about 5 weeks.

    Here's a pic of my Savage-

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