You Glock Guys - Page 3

You Glock Guys

This is a discussion on You Glock Guys within the General Firearm Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; That's one person's opinion. Why not do a survey of all the Pro Online Guys? Better yet, check with the manufacturers, true professional instructors, and ...

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  1. #31
    VIP Member Array AZ Husker's Avatar
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    That's one person's opinion. Why not do a survey of all the Pro Online Guys? Better yet, check with the manufacturers, true professional instructors, and operators? It's not called a "Slide Stop" for nothing!
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  2. #32
    Member Array chaosrob's Avatar
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    I also have a friend who rpm matches during gear shifts to avoid wear on his clutch. I think it is a matter of personal preference. I have a series 70 combat commander that has seen over 10k rounds, and I always use the slide release/stop (whichever you prefer to call it). I guess old habits die hard, and every auto I shoot (except my sigs which all sligshot forward on their own when I ram a mag home) gets the slide dropped with the release/stop lever

  3. #33
    Member Array detroit9mm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ Husker View Post
    That's one person's opinion. Why not do a survey of all the Pro Online Guys? Better yet, check with the manufacturers, true professional instructors, and operators? It's not called a "Slide Stop" for nothing!
    Kahr is the one manufacturer that I know of that tells you to use the slide release to chamber the pistol. They specifically tell you in the manual to not "slingshot" it. This is the one criticism I have of Kahr pistols. Otherwise, I love my CW9.

  4. #34
    Ex Member Array Ram Rod's Avatar
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    From the Glock owner's manual:
    4. After the last round has been fired, the slide remains open. Remove the empty magazine from
    the weapon by pushing the magazine catch (19). Insert a new magazine and then either push
    the slide stop lever (27) downwards (see photo), or pull the slide slightly backwards and allow it
    to spring forwards. The weapon is now again secured and ready to fire.
    Last edited by srfl; November 19th, 2008 at 02:48 AM. Reason: Last paragraph not needed.

  5. #35
    Ex Member Array Ram Rod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ Husker View Post
    That's one person's opinion. Why not do a survey of all the Pro Online Guys? Better yet, check with the manufacturers, true professional instructors, and operators? It's not called a "Slide Stop" for nothing!
    To what end? We all know in today's world everyone is full of themselves and they know better than the original engineers who designed the pistol and wrote the instruction manual. Why do you think everyone and anyone thinks they can improve on the Glock pistol design, yet seem to be completely satisfied with any other pistol as is? Part of the reason humanity in general thinks they are smarter then God!

  6. #36
    VIP Member Array AZ Husker's Avatar
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    Guess it depends on which page of the Glock manual you want to believe. In one printed in May, 2004 on page 21, it clearly states...
    "Pull back the slide with the free hand, and allow it to spring forward into the locked position. The trigger finger of the shooting hand must remain outside the trigger guard. The weapon is now ready to fire".



    I know this is a Glock question, but I can also quote from Colt, Kimber, Ed Brown, and Wilson manuals. I've always liked you Ram Rod, and don't want this to turn into an argument, but there are recognized, preferred, and proven ways of working any piece of equipment.
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  7. #37
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    Sent my Glock 20 10mm to Robar Industries for a grip reduction, high grip modification, and installation of a Bar Sto match barrel I purchased from someone on Glock Talk. Had a former co-worker/Glock armorer install a NY trigger. Lastly, I personally installed a set of Tru Glo tritium/fiber optic sights.
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  8. #38
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    Well, I shoot a 1911 mostly and for many years it was quite common for gunsmiths and shooters in general to fine tune and tailor their Colt pistols to a specific load by clipping coils from the recoil spring.

    Usually 1.5 or two coils was the max that I've ever clipped.
    The only danger to firearm is lightening a recoil spring and then inadvertently switching over to a HOT load.
    The OP sounds intelligent enough not to do that.
    One thing that you should not do is clip coils and then stretch the spring back out to the original length as that will sometimes cause a premature recoil spring failure.

    Many of the original 1911s that were set up for really soft shooting target wadcutters had the recoil springs pretty radically shortened.

    With so many different recoil spring weights available for so many firearms - it's not too common of a practice to clip coils anymore.

    With the Commander that I'm shooting these days (with a Falcon Arms Chrome Silicon Variable Recoil Spring) - I put about 300 rounds through it on that spring and the ejected cartridges were still dropping too close to the firearm and so I clipped off 2 coils - starting with one coil & then another half and then another half coil and now I'm getting my brass landing about 4' from the firearm which is perfect for me.

    Actually, you don't want your recoil spring lots stronger than it needs to be for reliable feeding.
    You'll get more positive ejection if your spring weight is just right and the recoil spring is not too strong.

    If a firearm is equipped with a way overly strong spring then the slide slams back into battery with too much "oomph" that will disrupt your sight picture.

    So the bottom line is that folks should experiment with various spring weights in order to fine tune their firearm to what they will be shooting in it.

    Manufacturers DO factory install heavier springs than are often necessary since they need to "cover the firearm out" for the hottest possible available commercially loaded ammunition that shooters may decide to run through it.
    So...that spring would likely be too strong for say a milder "Low Recoil Personal Defense" load.
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  9. #39
    Ex Member Array Ram Rod's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ Husker View Post
    Guess it depends on which page of the Glock manual you want to believe. In one printed in May, 2004 on page 21, it clearly states...
    "Pull back the slide with the free hand, and allow it to spring forward into the locked position. The trigger finger of the shooting hand must remain outside the trigger guard. The weapon is now ready to fire".



    I know this is a Glock question, but I can also quote from Colt, Kimber, Ed Brown, and Wilson manuals. I've always liked you Ram Rod, and don't want this to turn into an argument, but there are recognized, preferred, and proven ways of working any piece of equipment.
    That may be on the initial charge of the pistol........empty chamber, slide forward, inserting a freshly loaded magazine. How else would you chamber a round? (page 21) I think we've got far enough away from the O.P. anyway.

  10. #40
    VIP Member Array Rob72's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ Husker View Post
    That's one person's opinion. Why not do a survey of all the Pro Online Guys? Better yet, check with the manufacturers, true professional instructors, and operators? It's not called a "Slide Stop" for nothing!
    Glock, Sig and Khar all reference use of either. One doesn't commonly rack using the rear sight and one's belt; it does, however, work...as does the slide-lock deactivation (or "slide-release," -IIRC-in Sig's case.)

    G96, if it's your carry gun, drop a stock spring back in. Glock mainsprings "go all at once" when they do wear out. You're looking at the very real possibility of an out-of-battery discharge. 1911s are more tolerant of varying weights, Glocks are as unforgiving with light mainsprings as they are with "accidentally" touching the trigger.

  11. #41
    Member Array 357sig's Avatar
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    Glock is a reliable weapon. Cutting on spring could cause a problem. I owned a G23 and personally other than a extended slide release or +2 plate there is anything I would do. I found it to be very accurate for SD gun and not bad on recoil.


    P.S.
    Also, I would buy a 357 barrel for it
    Glock 32 (357 sig)

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