Pro, where does the rust appear?
This is a discussion on Getting frustrated here within the General Firearm Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; I have a 9mm EAA Witness... and it is a fantastic firearm. I've put about 500-1000 rounds thru it and it has jammed maybe once ...
I have a 9mm EAA Witness... and it is a fantastic firearm. I've put about 500-1000 rounds thru it and it has jammed maybe once or twice. I'm having a serious problem with rust tho. My handguns are stored in 3x3x3 fireproof/waterproof safe with coins, cash and other valuables and documents. All of my handguns don't have ANY rust issues except the Witness. I really tore it apart one night and cleaned the barrel and most everything inside and that seemed to get rid of the rust. Now it's spreading like a disease and I have spotty areas on the rear of the grip, trigger guard and the frame just under the muzzle.
I know how to get rid of it, my problem is preventing it. I've tried using oil and scrubbing pads to rub it off. The gets rid of it, but it comes back. I've tried the selsia (sp?) packs in the safe... nothing.
My only thought is maybe my sweaty hands contribute to it. I do a basic oil and clean of the gun after each use, and store it open in the safe unloaded. I'd really hate to have to get rid of this gun, but it's getting to be that way and I'm frustrated. Any help would be appreciated.
Pro, where does the rust appear?
You have to make the shot when fire is smoking, people are screaming, dogs are barking, kids are crying and sirens are coming.
Ego will kill you. Leave it at home.
After you clean the gun - Warm it with a hair blow-dryer and rub it down with a coat of Renaissance Wax and then buff it with a soft cotton cloth after the metal cools down. It's fantastic stuff.
That will physically block air and moisture from contacting the surface.
No air and no moisture means that rust cannot reappear.
The R Wax does not make firearms slippery.
Renaissance Wax is magic stuff. It's the best thing for holsters and other leather products. It's used in museums to protect ancient items. I've never tried it for rust protection, but it certainly makes sense. I find regular maintenance, lube, and an application of Sheath works just fine for me. I also have a silicone rag on top of my safe for a quick daily wipedown.
Treat me good, I'll treat you better. Treat me bad, I'll treat you worse.
I use it on my handguns and now most of my tools.. It works.
I had minor rusting on the barrel of a Browning BDM 9mm pistol, back in the 1990's. Found the Birchwood-Casey Sheath product and that cured it all. With that barrel's material and finishing, it took keeping up on the cleaning, with a liberal wiping down with Sheath every couple weeks, but it never rusted again.
I a little bit off the subject, my revolver got a couple of tiny rusty spots on the OD of the barrel, will DW40 cure it? or should I get something else?
And then a little bit under the muzzle on the frame.
Either way... thanks guys for all the quick responses. So many choices... Either way, I'm sure something here or a combination of things will help.
Now back on topic ...
The Renaissance wax is good stuff and I have used it in the past. The problem with any rust is that once the rusting process has started, its there. All you can do now is try to prevent it from getting worse. I use Break-Free w/clp or FP10 on all my firearms. Break-Free for my EDC and FP10 for my safe queens. The FP10 seems to last a little longer and does not dry out as fast as BF. YMMV
"Government is not the solution to our problem; government IS the problem". - Ronald Reagan 1981
Also one of the problems with using WD-40 around firearm is that since it does penetrate.......it can get into you ammo and make it useless. I have tested this by taking old ammo and spraying the primers down and leaving them alone for a couple of days. They did fire not a single one out of 20 rounds.
Blessed be the Lord my strength, which teacheth my hands to war, and my fingers to fight.
Senior Instructor for Tactical and Defensive of Texas
The way I protect car parts is applying a rust neutralizer (available at a car part store), cleaning that off with water, drying thoroughly, and then applying a liberal dose of breakfree CLP. The coating breakfree leaves does a great job of preventing rust.
Rust neutralizers are an acid that converts rust to another metal, so that way the "cancer" can't spread because it's gone.
Once you've defeated the rust you should consider putting some sort of better finish on the weapon to reduce your maintenance needs, unless the rust is happening somewhere you can't finish.