how to re blue a gun?

how to re blue a gun?

This is a discussion on how to re blue a gun? within the General Firearm Discussion forums, part of the Related Topics category; i got my usp compact yesterday, it is used adn the slide has a few scratches and you can see a little bit of silver ...

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  1. #1
    Member Array Jrod012889's Avatar
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    how to re blue a gun?

    i got my usp compact yesterday, it is used adn the slide has a few scratches and you can see a little bit of silver and im wanting to re blue it to make it look better just need to know ways to do it and what is needed?
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  2. #2
    VIP Member Array automatic slim's Avatar
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    Actually I've never seen a home blueing kit that worked well. They either do not do a good job covering, or it rubs off easily. Hot blueing by a pro is the only sure fire way to go...but expensive. There are spray on/oven bake finishes that give good results, but they tend not to match the original finish.
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    For minor scratches, etc., it's not really worth the expense of having an expensive blueing job done. There are several kits, etc. available to perform touch-ups. One is a marker-like pen and does well for small scratches. Make sure all oil is removed first. Prep is all important.

    Check any Cabelsas, Natchez, Midway catalog for blueing supplies. Many online sources avail.

    For bigger jobs (complete slide or gun), then a prefessional reblueing is well worth the money. They have the equipment necessary to do it right.
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  4. #4
    VIP Member Array Stevew's Avatar
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    I have not found a way to keep a carry gun looking good. I have re-blued some shotguns with varied results. Usually refinishing a gun deminshes it's value.
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  5. #5
    VIP Member Array dukalmighty's Avatar
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    I just bought a sig 229 with serious holster wear,I will carry it just the way it is,as long as you keep it cleaned and lubed,and wipe it down if it gets any moisture or sweat on it it will be okay,my carry holsters have body shields to keeo my skin and the metal gun parts seperated
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  6. #6
    VIP Member Array Superhouse 15's Avatar
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    Is the USP slide really "blued" or is it a coating like the Glock Tenifer or the Beretta Bruniton?

    In any case, have it done by a pro. The home kits are a pain to do more than touch up. it takes a ton of work to make a cold blue kit look decent.

  7. #7
    Member Array Jrod012889's Avatar
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    i think its coating is like the Glock, if it is will the touch up work on it?
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  8. #8
    VIP Member Array cvhoss's Avatar
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    If it's a flat black coating, for a small nick or scratch you could use one of the touch-up pens. However, if the wear is substantially from a holster, these won't work well and they aren't very durable.

    For a complete slide re-coating, you could use the DuraBake coating. If you have regular sights you can put a dob of Vaseline on the white dots before you spray on the coating and bake as long as they are all metal. If they are night sights, you'll want to remove them before spraying and baking.

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  9. #9
    Senior Member Array itschuck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dukalmighty View Post
    I just bought a sig 229 with serious holster wear,I will carry it just the way it is,as long as you keep it cleaned and lubed,and wipe it down if it gets any moisture or sweat on it it will be okay,my carry holsters have body shields to keeo my skin and the metal gun parts seperated
    Casey makes a cold bluing kit. Works well used it on the walther pp I have for that very problem, holster burn.
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  10. #10
    Distinguished Member Array Rugergirl's Avatar
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    A few months ago I restored Dad's old shotgun. It was in pretty bad shape and I put a few days into doing the job. I started by getting it spotlessly clean and removing the rust from the inside and outside of the barrel.
    The stock had several nasty gouges and dents, I stripped the wood, sanded and smoothed it the best I could and stained and sealed the wood, looked great.
    I used the Birchwood Casey blue and following the directions I wasn't happy with it at all. I stripped it again with lots of navel jelly and started over. By using boiling water to rinse after each application of the blueing and drying it completely with a heat gun after each coat it looked much better. I applied 2 coats this way and let it sit to dry and cool, then repeated with another two coats the following day, and it looked great.
    Heat is definatley the best way to go and it wasn't all that hard to get a nice looking finish. I do wish I had thought to take some before and after pictures.
    Disclaimer: The posts made by this member are only the members opinion, not a reflection on anyone else, nor the group, and should not be cause for anyone to get their undergarments wedged in an uncomfortable position.

  11. #11
    Member Array Craiger's Avatar
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    The HK USP has a "HE" (Hostile Environment) finish basically it is the same process as Glock's Tenifer and others Melonite . If it were me I would Ionbond the slide and never worry about it again. Ionbond is a very hard metal treatment not a spray on or bluing.

    or yes you can use cold bluing touch up with what you have now, that is what I did at first on my USP but you have to reapply it almost daily.
    Last edited by Craiger; February 14th, 2010 at 12:44 PM.
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  12. #12
    Member Array glockster17's Avatar
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    I'll agree with Oldvet. For scratches the touch up pens, or blueing pens work quite well. I have used the blue and the black ones. They come out almost unseen if used correctly.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Array Shadowsbane's Avatar
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    The cold blue works better if you heat up the gun to around 100-120 degrees, and apply it with a cloth rubbing in circles.

    I completely redid a Marlin 30-30 I picked up some time ago with it. Worked out pretty good considering how hard I am on my stuff.

    Also the paste is far better than the liquid, and I have had excellent results by using the warming method and then applying it like shoe polish.
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